před 4 dny
sobota 28. července 2012
úterý 24. července 2012
Bor - Naposledy před Rocklands
V neděli ráno prší, ale nám to moc nevadí, vyrážíme až odpoledne. Při chůzi do kopce je všude dost mokro a vrtá nám hlavou, jestli nepojemede zase zpátky dom. Naštěstí boulder Chcanky 7B+/C suchej a můžu lízt. Hloupý zvednutí zadku a pak už lehký. Dlouho špekuluju, jak chytnout nástupový chyty až kousek pravýho uloupnu, a jak se správně postavit až se postavým mimo omágovaný stupy. Pak to vylezu, nechal bych 7B+. Jdeme dál k Ádr Fitnesu, kačka vyleze svůj pojekt od minule za 5A a já pak zkouším kombinátory Ádr Fitnesu Joko-Geri 7B+/C a Teplej Merlot 7B/B+. Chyty jsou docela navlhlý, ale utrápím to. Lomítka a to, co je napravo od nich bych škrtnul.
Je hezky chladno a tak namotivuju Kačku na její nej projekt Loveckou sezónu, ale nedaří se.
Pak mě zase Kačka motivuje na můj projekt na Magnetu. Tření je znát, jenom kdyby nebyla zavlhlá výlezová hrana. Nicméně zkouším, mám sebou nový tvrdý lehky a konečně ustojím klíčový stup, a každým pokusem se o kousek zlepším dokud to nevylezu, krásný sledovat progres:) Klasa snad 8A+. Bohužel, když přelízám, tak se Kačka zrovna věnuje jinýmu chlapovi (pejskovi) tak video není, ale pro ilustraci z taky dobrýho pokusu.
Teplej Merlot 7B
Je hezky chladno a tak namotivuju Kačku na její nej projekt Loveckou sezónu, ale nedaří se.
Lovecká Sezóna 5A
Pak mě zase Kačka motivuje na můj projekt na Magnetu. Tření je znát, jenom kdyby nebyla zavlhlá výlezová hrana. Nicméně zkouším, mám sebou nový tvrdý lehky a konečně ustojím klíčový stup, a každým pokusem se o kousek zlepším dokud to nevylezu, krásný sledovat progres:) Klasa snad 8A+. Bohužel, když přelízám, tak se Kačka zrovna věnuje jinýmu chlapovi (pejskovi) tak video není, ale pro ilustraci z taky dobrýho pokusu.
Právě zapadá sluníčko, když dorazíme k parkovišti, nějakej polák uvízl v parkovištní kaluži, vezmu auto a vytáhnu ho.
Západ slunce
Ráno vykopu všechny z postele a okolo devátý jsme zase ve skalách.
Lezema na Hollywoodu, káča projektuje v Mechanickým Pomeranči 6A+ a já mezitím udělám novinku Walk Of Fame za 7A+, potkáme Michala Štěpánka.
Walk Of Fame 7A+
Mechanický Pomeranč 6A+
Dál jdeme až za Djembe, kde Štěpán posledně očistil bomba a snad nejpřevislejší boulder na Boru. Kroky docela jdou až na ten poslední, tak je to temnota a navíc kousavá lišta, tak vyklízím pole. JAk odcházíme trkne mě do oka možná klíčový chyt, tak příště. Očekávaná klasa 8A+.
Projekt 8A+?
Dál jdeme dolů k HOspodě, kde zkusím letitý skokový projekt, ale nic z toho není.
Morfo projekt 7C+?
Pak buší už jen Kačka. Očistíme Pašeráka a kačka vyleze pár lehkých boulderů 3-4. PAk jdeme k Noci v Muzeu, kde si odškrtne další projekt za 5C. Nakonec se stavíme u Mortalu Kombat, kde KAčka zkouší Fatality 5C.
Pytel Plný Drog 4
Tak a teď ROKLANDS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Bor: Last time before Rocklands
It was raining on Sunday morning but we didn't mind so much because we didn't take off before the afternoon. When we were walking up the hill, all was very wet so we were wondering whether to go on or to go back home. Fortunately, the boulder Chcanky 7B+/C was dry so I could climb it. A lame arse-lift, then it was all right. I was racking my brains how to grasp the initial holds and how to position myself off the powdered treads. Then I did it. I would say 7B+.
Then, we went to Ádr Fitnes. Kačka did her project left from the last time (5A) and I was trying combinations of Ádr Fitness - Joko-Geri (7B+/C) and Teplej Merlot (7B/B+). The holds were quite damp but I did it anyway.
It was pretty cold so I motivated Kačka to do her finest project Lovecká sezóna but no success. Then the other way round -- Kačka motivated me during my project on Magnet. There was considerable friction. If only the final edge hadn't been wet. I was trying to do it nonetheless and finally I was able to handle the key move. With every attempt I got a little better. It was great to watch my progress :-) Class: About 8A+. Unfortunately, when I was finishing, Kačka paid attention to another guy (the dog) so there is no video to show you. But for the illustration, there is a different take from another good attempt.
It was sunset when we arrived at the parking place. Some Polish guy got stuck in the mud so I pulled him out with my car. In the morning, I forced everyone to get up. Around nine, we were already climbing again. We were doing Hollywood, Káča did her projects on Mechanický pomeranč (6A+), and inbetween, I did a new thing -- Walk of Fame (7A+). We also met Michal Štěpánek.
Later on, we went to Djembe where Štěpán cleaned an awesome and maybe the most overhanging boulder at Bor the last time. The moves were not bad, except for the last one. Moreover a biting edge. So a beat a retreat. I noticed what could be a key hold just when we were moving off -- so maybe next time. Expected class: 8A+.
Then we went on towards Hospoda where I tried an age-old jump project but it didn't work. After that, it was just Kačka's show. We cleaned up Pašerák, Kačka climbed up a few easier boulders (3 to 4). Then there was Noc v Muzeu where she could tick off another project (5C). In the end, we made a stop at Mortal Kombat where there was Fatality 5C for Kačka.
Well and now ROCKLANDS!
Bor: Last time before Rocklands
It was raining on Sunday morning but we didn't mind so much because we didn't take off before the afternoon. When we were walking up the hill, all was very wet so we were wondering whether to go on or to go back home. Fortunately, the boulder Chcanky 7B+/C was dry so I could climb it. A lame arse-lift, then it was all right. I was racking my brains how to grasp the initial holds and how to position myself off the powdered treads. Then I did it. I would say 7B+.
Then, we went to Ádr Fitnes. Kačka did her project left from the last time (5A) and I was trying combinations of Ádr Fitness - Joko-Geri (7B+/C) and Teplej Merlot (7B/B+). The holds were quite damp but I did it anyway.
It was pretty cold so I motivated Kačka to do her finest project Lovecká sezóna but no success. Then the other way round -- Kačka motivated me during my project on Magnet. There was considerable friction. If only the final edge hadn't been wet. I was trying to do it nonetheless and finally I was able to handle the key move. With every attempt I got a little better. It was great to watch my progress :-) Class: About 8A+. Unfortunately, when I was finishing, Kačka paid attention to another guy (the dog) so there is no video to show you. But for the illustration, there is a different take from another good attempt.
It was sunset when we arrived at the parking place. Some Polish guy got stuck in the mud so I pulled him out with my car. In the morning, I forced everyone to get up. Around nine, we were already climbing again. We were doing Hollywood, Káča did her projects on Mechanický pomeranč (6A+), and inbetween, I did a new thing -- Walk of Fame (7A+). We also met Michal Štěpánek.
Later on, we went to Djembe where Štěpán cleaned an awesome and maybe the most overhanging boulder at Bor the last time. The moves were not bad, except for the last one. Moreover a biting edge. So a beat a retreat. I noticed what could be a key hold just when we were moving off -- so maybe next time. Expected class: 8A+.
Then we went on towards Hospoda where I tried an age-old jump project but it didn't work. After that, it was just Kačka's show. We cleaned up Pašerák, Kačka climbed up a few easier boulders (3 to 4). Then there was Noc v Muzeu where she could tick off another project (5C). In the end, we made a stop at Mortal Kombat where there was Fatality 5C for Kačka.
Well and now ROCKLANDS!
pátek 13. července 2012
Středeční Bor
Mezi prací a hnusným počasím sme s Kačko a Verčou vyrazili ve středu na Bor. Nejdřív lezou Holky lezou pár boulderů na kameni Harfa.
Já pak razím na projekt pár metrů nad tímto kamenem, který mi minule ukázal Fox. Na začátku dva těžší kroky se špatnýma nohama a pak crux move do hrany, který ani nekroknu, zbytek už za odměnu. Ladím to půl hodiny a výsledkem jsou jen dva krveprolitý prsty z úvodní řezavý lišty.
Dál jdeme k Poemexu, kde lezou zase bábinky, přichází bouřka, tu přečkáme pod Monstrem a jedeme dom.
Wednesday at Bor
In the time between work and ugly weather, Kačka and I made a trip to Bor on Wednesday. At first, the girls were climbing a few boulders at Harfa.
After that, I went for a project which is lying a few meters above -- the same Fox showed me last time. There are two more difficult moves at the beginning and then a crux move towards the edge. The rest is a piece of cake. I was playing with that for half an hour. The result? Two bloody fingers due to the initial edge.
Later on, we went to Poemex where the girls started climbing again. The storm came, we survived it hidden under Monstrum and then we went home.
Já pak razím na projekt pár metrů nad tímto kamenem, který mi minule ukázal Fox. Na začátku dva těžší kroky se špatnýma nohama a pak crux move do hrany, který ani nekroknu, zbytek už za odměnu. Ladím to půl hodiny a výsledkem jsou jen dva krveprolitý prsty z úvodní řezavý lišty.
Projekt 8A+?
Káťa a Klídeček 5B
Hlídač
In the time between work and ugly weather, Kačka and I made a trip to Bor on Wednesday. At first, the girls were climbing a few boulders at Harfa.
After that, I went for a project which is lying a few meters above -- the same Fox showed me last time. There are two more difficult moves at the beginning and then a crux move towards the edge. The rest is a piece of cake. I was playing with that for half an hour. The result? Two bloody fingers due to the initial edge.
Later on, we went to Poemex where the girls started climbing again. The storm came, we survived it hidden under Monstrum and then we went home.
úterý 26. června 2012
Bor
Dneska sme s Kačkou vyjeli na Bor. ROzlezeme se u Adr Fitnesu a já pokukuju po projektu, který jsem si minule očistil - Život Báry doleva. Podmínka je dneska znát a lišta ďocela drží. Po hoďce pošlu. Zpátky do Minulosti 8A.
PAk míříme k Moai. Kačka leze nové bouldříky, zadaří se i v jednom 6A. Já zkouším nový projekt, kterej mi ukázal FOxík. MOc hezký, silový, jen trošku drolivý. Nicméně nejde mi to a tak idu dál na kámen ležící hned nad Poletuchou. Ten jsem posledně trošku očistil a dnes tu vylezl Pai, Pai, Pai 7B+ a Gamba 7A+.
Pak doráží Fox s Džanglošem a Foxík zkouší Moai 7C. Daří se mu ulomit klíčový spoďák a tak nový projekt je na světě. NAštěstí to s klasou moc nepohlo, mě se podaří Reclimb po pár pokusech, nyní tak 7C+. Dál jdeme s klukama na Jeviště. Tady mi FOxík dává na prdel ve Showparku 7C+, kde dává parádní pokusy. Zopáknu si ještě Divadlo Bez Zábradlí. NAkonec ještě zaleze Káča a jedem dom.
Bor
PAk míříme k Moai. Kačka leze nové bouldříky, zadaří se i v jednom 6A. Já zkouším nový projekt, kterej mi ukázal FOxík. MOc hezký, silový, jen trošku drolivý. Nicméně nejde mi to a tak idu dál na kámen ležící hned nad Poletuchou. Ten jsem posledně trošku očistil a dnes tu vylezl Pai, Pai, Pai 7B+ a Gamba 7A+.
Pak doráží Fox s Džanglošem a Foxík zkouší Moai 7C. Daří se mu ulomit klíčový spoďák a tak nový projekt je na světě. NAštěstí to s klasou moc nepohlo, mě se podaří Reclimb po pár pokusech, nyní tak 7C+. Dál jdeme s klukama na Jeviště. Tady mi FOxík dává na prdel ve Showparku 7C+, kde dává parádní pokusy. Zopáknu si ještě Divadlo Bez Zábradlí. NAkonec ještě zaleze Káča a jedem dom.
Bor
Kačka and I made a trip to Bor today. We warmed up at Ádr Fitnes and I was peeking at Život Báry (left one) - the project we had cleaned up last time. The edge was quite firm this time, I sent after an hour. Then Zpátky do minulosti 8A.
Then we were heading towards Moai. Kačka was climbing the new boulders and even managed to do one 6A. I was trying a new project Foxík had showed me before. A very nice thing, strength-based, maybe too crumbly. However, I could not do it so I proceeded with a boulder right above Poletucha. I cleaned it a little last time. I finished Pai, Pai, Pai (7B+) and Gamba (7A+).
Later on, Fox and Džangloš arrived at the site. Foxík was trying Moai 7C. He managed to break off a key undercling -- and so, a new project was born. Luckily, it did not significantly change the class. I also managed to do Reclimb after a few attempts -- current class around 7C+. After that, the boys and I moved to Jeviště. Foxík totally beat my ass at Snowpark 7C+. Before the end, I repeated Divadlo bez Zábradlí. Finally, Káča did her part and we could go home.
Then we were heading towards Moai. Kačka was climbing the new boulders and even managed to do one 6A. I was trying a new project Foxík had showed me before. A very nice thing, strength-based, maybe too crumbly. However, I could not do it so I proceeded with a boulder right above Poletucha. I cleaned it a little last time. I finished Pai, Pai, Pai (7B+) and Gamba (7A+).
Later on, Fox and Džangloš arrived at the site. Foxík was trying Moai 7C. He managed to break off a key undercling -- and so, a new project was born. Luckily, it did not significantly change the class. I also managed to do Reclimb after a few attempts -- current class around 7C+. After that, the boys and I moved to Jeviště. Foxík totally beat my ass at Snowpark 7C+. Before the end, I repeated Divadlo bez Zábradlí. Finally, Káča did her part and we could go home.
neděle 24. června 2012
Natáčení na Boru vol. 3
Po třech týdnech proležených v knížkách jsem konečně vyrazil zalízt na Bor. Počasí vyšlo parádně. v sobotu ráno vyrážíme brzo, abychom si stihli trošku zalízt ještě než se probudí kameramani. Po pár pokusech vylezu novinku od Štěpána Backflipa 7B/+. Očistím Báru doleva a jdem zpět k autu. POtkáme se s Pítrsem a jeho teamem a Pepem. V plánu je dotočit Draka. Než si to Kluci nachystají, zaběhnu na Maoi 7C a druhým pokusem dávám. Těžkej spoďák, nicmééně mi to přišlo jako lehčí cejdo. Ještě vylezu novinku Paví Očko 7A+ a trošku očistím kámen nad Poletuchou. Pak se plácám v Drakovi, párkrát vylezu Ducha, a natáčejí se detaily. V pět mizím dom na oslavu Kačky.
Ole
V neděli zase vstávačka brzo. Na boru si ještě třikrát vylezu Ducha a moje část ve filmu Pískaři, se zdá být uzavřená. Štěpána chytám v King Kongu, kterej si dá jen tak 5x za sebou. Dám si novinku od Štěpána Nemo 7B a valíme dom.
Nemo 7B
Filming at Bor Vol. 3
After three weeks spent in the books, I finally moved off towards Bor. The weather was great. We had started very early on Saturday morning to be able to warm up before the cameramen woke up. I climbed a new thing by Štěpán after a few attempts (7B / 7B+). Then I cleansed the left variant of Bára and we went back to the car. We met Pítrs, his team, and Pepe. Our plan was to finish filming Drak. Before the guys got ready, I went for Maoi 7C and I sent it at the second attempt. There is a difficult undercling but I found it as a lighter C. Then I climbed a new thing -- Paví Očko 7A+ and cleaned the boulder at Poletucha a bit. Then some struggling with Drak and a few climbs of Duch (with details being filmed). At five, I took myself off to make it to Kačka's party.
I had to get up early again on Sunday. I climbed Duch three times again so my part in the film seems to be over. I found Štěpán at King Kong which he did five times without any trouble. I did Nemo 7B, a new thing by Štěpán, and then we went home.
After three weeks spent in the books, I finally moved off towards Bor. The weather was great. We had started very early on Saturday morning to be able to warm up before the cameramen woke up. I climbed a new thing by Štěpán after a few attempts (7B / 7B+). Then I cleansed the left variant of Bára and we went back to the car. We met Pítrs, his team, and Pepe. Our plan was to finish filming Drak. Before the guys got ready, I went for Maoi 7C and I sent it at the second attempt. There is a difficult undercling but I found it as a lighter C. Then I climbed a new thing -- Paví Očko 7A+ and cleaned the boulder at Poletucha a bit. Then some struggling with Drak and a few climbs of Duch (with details being filmed). At five, I took myself off to make it to Kačka's party.
I had to get up early again on Sunday. I climbed Duch three times again so my part in the film seems to be over. I found Štěpán at King Kong which he did five times without any trouble. I did Nemo 7B, a new thing by Štěpán, and then we went home.
sobota 2. června 2012
RUSTAM 8A+
Chladný ráno mi nedalo a místo učení jsem myslel na lezení venku. Na jaře jsme se Štěpánem očistili parádní projekt Rustam na Staré rasovně a tak valím tam.
Naštěstí nic není mokrýho, zkusím si dolez, kterej jde hned a už ladím prsty v nástupových lištách. Úvodní krok, kterej jsem minule neudělal, pustil dnes třetím pokusem. To bude ten Adamův kampus:) Nicméně problém nastává potom. Buď směna na relativně dobrý liště s shit nohama a nebo věřit noze a kampusnout to. Kampus vyhrál. Po pár pokusech přelézám celý úvodní crux a už nepustím. Klasa 8A+?
Cestou zpátky se ještě stavím v Blansku. Po pár pokusech vylezu Krtka 7B+ a zkouším ještě Fair Play 7C/C+. Dvakrát spadnu ve výlezu a pak už tam ani nedolezu, po půl hoďce se vzdávám a valím dom.
Rustam 8A+
I was restless during a cold morning. Instead of learning, I kept thinking about climbing somewhere outside. I ended up dashing to a marvellous project Rustam located at Stará rasovna which I and Štěpán cleaned in the spring.
Everything was fortunately dry. I tried the top which was no problem. After that, I was warming up my fingers for the ledges. The first step (which I couldn't do last time) submitted at the third attempt. I guess these are the fruits of exercising at Adam's campus :-) Nevertheless, the next step was a problem. I could either do a quite long ledge with poor feet or believe my feet and try a campus. Campus won. I climbed the whole crux after a few attempts and I never let go. Class: About 8A+?
I made a stop in Blansko on my way back. I climbed Krtek 7B+ and also tried Fair Play 7C/C+. I fell twice from the top and then I wasn't even able to get there so I gave up after like 30 minutes and went home.
Naštěstí nic není mokrýho, zkusím si dolez, kterej jde hned a už ladím prsty v nástupových lištách. Úvodní krok, kterej jsem minule neudělal, pustil dnes třetím pokusem. To bude ten Adamův kampus:) Nicméně problém nastává potom. Buď směna na relativně dobrý liště s shit nohama a nebo věřit noze a kampusnout to. Kampus vyhrál. Po pár pokusech přelézám celý úvodní crux a už nepustím. Klasa 8A+?
Cestou zpátky se ještě stavím v Blansku. Po pár pokusech vylezu Krtka 7B+ a zkouším ještě Fair Play 7C/C+. Dvakrát spadnu ve výlezu a pak už tam ani nedolezu, po půl hoďce se vzdávám a valím dom.
Rustam 8A+
I was restless during a cold morning. Instead of learning, I kept thinking about climbing somewhere outside. I ended up dashing to a marvellous project Rustam located at Stará rasovna which I and Štěpán cleaned in the spring.
Everything was fortunately dry. I tried the top which was no problem. After that, I was warming up my fingers for the ledges. The first step (which I couldn't do last time) submitted at the third attempt. I guess these are the fruits of exercising at Adam's campus :-) Nevertheless, the next step was a problem. I could either do a quite long ledge with poor feet or believe my feet and try a campus. Campus won. I climbed the whole crux after a few attempts and I never let go. Class: About 8A+?
I made a stop in Blansko on my way back. I climbed Krtek 7B+ and also tried Fair Play 7C/C+. I fell twice from the top and then I wasn't even able to get there so I gave up after like 30 minutes and went home.
neděle 27. května 2012
Natáčení na Boru 2
Po zimním neúspěšným natáčení jsme se tento víkend vydali opět na Bor. Počasí vyšlo perfektně. Já jsem lezl na video Zlatýho Draka 8A+. V sobotu jsem nemohl udělat crux move, v neděli jsem už zdomácněl natolik, že to padlo. V sobotu navečer ještě vylezu novinku od Šváchiče Mozartovy Koule 7C.
V neděli ještě pozkouším levou hranu na trojuhelníku, avšak bez sebemenšího úspěchu. Káťa ještě očistí kamen naproti za cestou, kde posléze uděláme jednokrokový 7A+ a 5A. Nakonec si ještě s Kačkou očistíme projekty napříště nedaleko Šmoulova a jedeme dom. Krásnej víkend se supr lidma a Alfínem, díky!!
Projekt na trojuhelníku 8?
V neděli ještě pozkouším levou hranu na trojuhelníku, avšak bez sebemenšího úspěchu. Káťa ještě očistí kamen naproti za cestou, kde posléze uděláme jednokrokový 7A+ a 5A. Nakonec si ještě s Kačkou očistíme projekty napříště nedaleko Šmoulova a jedeme dom. Krásnej víkend se supr lidma a Alfínem, díky!!
Zlatý Drak 8A+
Ťulíni
Filming at Bor (2nd part)
After the unsuccessful attempt to do some filming at Bor in winter, we went there again last weekend. The weather was perfect. I climbed Zlatý Drak (8A+) for the shooting. I could not do crux move on Saturday but I got used to it the next day so in the end, I did it. On Saturday evening, I also added Šváchič's new thing -- Mozartovy koule 7C.
I was also trying a left variant on the triangle on Sunday but without any success. Káťa also tried to clean the boulder on the other side of the way where we did a one-move 7A+ and a 5A. After some additional cleaning of the projects nearby Šmoulov, we went home. What a beautiful weekend with cool people and with Alfine. Thanks!
After the unsuccessful attempt to do some filming at Bor in winter, we went there again last weekend. The weather was perfect. I climbed Zlatý Drak (8A+) for the shooting. I could not do crux move on Saturday but I got used to it the next day so in the end, I did it. On Saturday evening, I also added Šváchič's new thing -- Mozartovy koule 7C.
I was also trying a left variant on the triangle on Sunday but without any success. Káťa also tried to clean the boulder on the other side of the way where we did a one-move 7A+ and a 5A. After some additional cleaning of the projects nearby Šmoulov, we went home. What a beautiful weekend with cool people and with Alfine. Thanks!
sobota 19. května 2012
SP Innsbruck
Závod se mi vůbec nevydařil, síla nebyla a skončil jsem na 63.místě. Bouldry moc hezký, silový po velkých chytech, ale v pátek "to tam nebylo". Naopak krásně zalezla Nelly Kudrová, díky které jsme mohli kouknout na nádherný semifinále, a odvezla si 20 místo. Hezky zalezla i Silva Rajfová - 28.místo. Zbytek následoval mojí temnotu Ondra Nevělík 53.místo, Petra Růžičková 45.místo. Teď nastává, jak psal Adam Fiala, období temna - práce, škola, práce a pak snad zasloužené Rocklands!!:) A mezitím nějakej ten Bor.
World Cup Innsbruck
The race didn't work at all. All my power was gone and I ended up the 63rd. The boulders were very good, with big holds, but it just didn't work out. On the other hand, Nelly Kudrová did really well. Thank to her, we could watch a great semifinal round. She took the 20th place. Silva Rajfová was good as well -- 28th place. The rest had the same bad luck as me: Ondra Nevělík 53th, Petra Růžičková 45th. As Adam Fiala said, the "dark age" is coming right now: work, school, and other work, and than hopefully well deserved Rocklands. And yes, some trips to Bor in-between.
World Cup Innsbruck
The race didn't work at all. All my power was gone and I ended up the 63rd. The boulders were very good, with big holds, but it just didn't work out. On the other hand, Nelly Kudrová did really well. Thank to her, we could watch a great semifinal round. She took the 20th place. Silva Rajfová was good as well -- 28th place. The rest had the same bad luck as me: Ondra Nevělík 53th, Petra Růžičková 45th. As Adam Fiala said, the "dark age" is coming right now: work, school, and other work, and than hopefully well deserved Rocklands. And yes, some trips to Bor in-between.
pondělí 14. května 2012
BOULDER X
O víkendu proběhl zatím nej závod
letošního roku a to Boulder X v Praze. Sjelo se více lidí než na závody
ČP, výborný nový profily a hlavně parádní bouldry od Olina Klapala a Vildy Chejna.
Vyrážíme ráno z Chocně, po cestě vyzvednem Klímiče a Kůču a do Prahy dojíždíme
těsně před 10. Lezeme až ve druhé skupině, tak omrknem programy té první a jdem
lízt. Mě se podařilo přelízt všech 10 boulderů, což mi zajistilo 1.místo
v kvalifikaci. Po kalifikaci omrknem veletrh a jdem koukat na ženský
finále. To nabídlo zajímavej souboj o první místo mezi Věrkou Kostruhovou a
Petrou Růžičkovou, kterej vyhrála Věrka. Skokanem v našem finále byl
Štěpán, kterej se posunul z 9. na 3. místo, druhej skončil taťka Spilkyn a
já s jedním zaváháním na čtvrtým boulderu vyhrál. Vyzdvihnout byl chtěl hlavně třetí finálovém boulder,
nádherný poskakování jenom po struktůrách. Celkově si myslím, že Oliváč ukázal
směr jakým by se závody měly ubírat a že udělat pěkný závody, který budou bavit
závodníky i diváky udělat jde! Večer strávíme v BB, přespíme u Kozla a
ráno hurá na Modřín.
Kvali 10
Kvali 8
Finále 1
Finále 3
Finále 4
Big Game 8A/8A+
Sušení chytů
Roman ve Study Break 7C
Šampión 7C
Big Sur 7C - Video
At Modřín, I managed to climb Big Sur 7C at the second attempt, Šampion 7C at the first one, and Study Break 7C. I also tried Big Game 8A/A+ and Nymfa 8A/A+ but these were beyond my powers. Awesome conditions, nice boulders. I am looking forward to Autumn. My muscles and fingers were totalled so I went home to have some break and went to a sauna with Kačula. Innsbruck is on Friday!
BOULDER X
Boulder X, so far the best race of the season, took place in Prague during the weekend. More folks showed up than on Czech Cup, the new profiles and especially Olin Klapal's and Vilda Chejn's boulders were great. We set out in the morning from Choceň, picked up Klímič and Kůča and arrived in Prague just before 10. We were put into the second group so we took a look at the first group's programme and went for it. I managed to climb up all 10 boulders, which guaranteed the 1st place in qualifying round. After the qualifications, we checked out the fair and then we were watching women's finals. There was an interesting battle for the 1st place between Věrka Kostruhová and Petra Růžičková -- Věrka won. Our final's best place jump was that of Štěpán -- he moved from the 9th to the 3th place. "Daddy" Spilkyn ended up the 2nd and I won with just one miss on the 4th boulder. I'd like to highlight the third boulder in the finals -- excellent bouncing just along the texture. Overall, I think Oliváč showed us the right direction for the races. He managed to make a good race -- for the climbers and for the viewers alike. We spent the evening at BB's, stayed at Kozel and set off for Modřín in the morning.
Boulder X, so far the best race of the season, took place in Prague during the weekend. More folks showed up than on Czech Cup, the new profiles and especially Olin Klapal's and Vilda Chejn's boulders were great. We set out in the morning from Choceň, picked up Klímič and Kůča and arrived in Prague just before 10. We were put into the second group so we took a look at the first group's programme and went for it. I managed to climb up all 10 boulders, which guaranteed the 1st place in qualifying round. After the qualifications, we checked out the fair and then we were watching women's finals. There was an interesting battle for the 1st place between Věrka Kostruhová and Petra Růžičková -- Věrka won. Our final's best place jump was that of Štěpán -- he moved from the 9th to the 3th place. "Daddy" Spilkyn ended up the 2nd and I won with just one miss on the 4th boulder. I'd like to highlight the third boulder in the finals -- excellent bouncing just along the texture. Overall, I think Oliváč showed us the right direction for the races. He managed to make a good race -- for the climbers and for the viewers alike. We spent the evening at BB's, stayed at Kozel and set off for Modřín in the morning.
At Modřín, I managed to climb Big Sur 7C at the second attempt, Šampion 7C at the first one, and Study Break 7C. I also tried Big Game 8A/A+ and Nymfa 8A/A+ but these were beyond my powers. Awesome conditions, nice boulders. I am looking forward to Autumn. My muscles and fingers were totalled so I went home to have some break and went to a sauna with Kačula. Innsbruck is on Friday!
čtvrtek 3. května 2012
úterý 1. května 2012
Další ranní Kras
Dneska jsme navštívili oblast X v Moravským Krasu. Podařilo se na pár pokusů vylézt nádherný 7C+ na pravo jeskyně a 8A od sviště. Trochu více potrápily Babi 7C+. Zkouším kroknout Babi SD 8B, ale jeden krok mi nejde, nicméně třeba v zimě? Celkově pěkná jeskyňka.
Babi 7C+
Another Karst in the morning
Today we visited the Area X in the Moravian Karst. We managed to climb up a gorgeous 7C+ next to the cave after a few attempts and also an 8A. A little more troublesome was Babi 7C+. I tried to do my moves on Babi SD 8B but I couldn't do one particular move. Maybe in winter? Overall, a nice cave.
Today we visited the Area X in the Moravian Karst. We managed to climb up a gorgeous 7C+ next to the cave after a few attempts and also an 8A. A little more troublesome was Babi 7C+. I tried to do my moves on Babi SD 8B but I couldn't do one particular move. Maybe in winter? Overall, a nice cave.
neděle 29. dubna 2012
Holštejn po ránu - Kilián 8A, Rustam
Po závodech ve Vídni valíme v neděli na Holštejn. Kvůli podmínce vyrážíme se Sťěpánem brzy ráno, prý na Holštejně krásný projekty. A taky že jo. První zkoušíme krásný převislý kýl. Hned druhý krok je "crux", čistej campusovej krok za malou lištu daleko do lepšího, s tím že se nedá odrazit nohou, protože má člověk jednu podšpičkovanou a druhou ve vzduchu. . Jak jsme se Štěpánem udělali tento krok, dolezli jsme to až do konce, kde se jedná o lezení okolo 7A+ . Štěpán dává název Kilián, klasa tak 8A, s tím že v porovnání s Adamovýma lehčí. Video jak leze štěpán na stepanstranik.blogspot.com
Uděláme ještě lehký boulder doprava za 6C+. A jdeme na další projekt, očistíme od mechu, zamágujem chyty a zkoušíme kroky. Od třetího kroku se mi to po chvíli daří vyladit a spojit, tato část tak za 7B. Pak zkouším první krok, který je sám o sobě tak za 7C+. Dva malí bočáci, malý nohy a nátah do dobrý lišty. Po pár pokusech se mi daří plácnout kousek pod lištu. Druhý krok zkoušet nejde, protože je zateklý jeden chyt. Takže projekt na zimu?:) Pracovní název Rustam s očekávanou klasou 8A+?!
Uděláme ještě lehký boulder doprava za 6C+. A jdeme na další projekt, očistíme od mechu, zamágujem chyty a zkoušíme kroky. Od třetího kroku se mi to po chvíli daří vyladit a spojit, tato část tak za 7B. Pak zkouším první krok, který je sám o sobě tak za 7C+. Dva malí bočáci, malý nohy a nátah do dobrý lišty. Po pár pokusech se mi daří plácnout kousek pod lištu. Druhý krok zkoušet nejde, protože je zateklý jeden chyt. Takže projekt na zimu?:) Pracovní název Rustam s očekávanou klasou 8A+?!
Crux´s Intro move
Holštejn in the morning - Kilián 8A, Rustam
After the race in Vienna, we made a trip to Holštejn on Sunday. We set off early and were expecting some nice projects we had heard about before. And there they were. The first thing to try was a nice overhanging keel. Right the second move after the start was "Crux", a pure campus move behind a small edge. You can't push off with your leg because one foot is used and another one is hanging in the air. Once we did this move, I and Štěpán climbed up to the top where you can count on around 7A+. Štěpán called the thing Kilián, class about 8A and reportedly easier than Adam's version. You can watch Štěpán climbing at stepanstranik.blogspot.com.
We also did an easy boulder on the right side, a 6C+. And the we moved towards another project. We cleaned it, created the catch marks and tried our moves. After the third move, I was managing to improve and merge all parts. I guess it was 7B. Then another step which itself was around 7C+. Two smaller side-pulls, small spaces for the feet and then reaching for a good bar. After a few attempts I managed to get myself just below the bar. We couldn't practice the second move because one of the catches was wet. Maybe we'll go back in the winter. The preliminary name is Rustam and expected class 8A+.
After the race in Vienna, we made a trip to Holštejn on Sunday. We set off early and were expecting some nice projects we had heard about before. And there they were. The first thing to try was a nice overhanging keel. Right the second move after the start was "Crux", a pure campus move behind a small edge. You can't push off with your leg because one foot is used and another one is hanging in the air. Once we did this move, I and Štěpán climbed up to the top where you can count on around 7A+. Štěpán called the thing Kilián, class about 8A and reportedly easier than Adam's version. You can watch Štěpán climbing at stepanstranik.blogspot.com.
We also did an easy boulder on the right side, a 6C+. And the we moved towards another project. We cleaned it, created the catch marks and tried our moves. After the third move, I was managing to improve and merge all parts. I guess it was 7B. Then another step which itself was around 7C+. Two smaller side-pulls, small spaces for the feet and then reaching for a good bar. After a few attempts I managed to get myself just below the bar. We couldn't practice the second move because one of the catches was wet. Maybe we'll go back in the winter. The preliminary name is Rustam and expected class 8A+.
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