Novinky na Babím Lomě na kameni Raketa, pěkné lezení po malých krysách - Lidská Bestie 8B/+ FA, Hloubka Ostrosti 8B FA, Mistrovské Dílo 8A+ FA.
pátek 16. dubna 2021
Some Ascents Lately
úterý 30. března 2021
ČP v obtížnosti Zlín - 1.místo
Na první závod v obtížnosti do Zlína se dost těším, trénink jde dobře, forma je a v závodě to bylo cítit. Kvalifikačními cestami jako jediný projdu až do Topu. V první cestě po černých oblinách se na začátku cítím nervózní, ale od půlky už se mi leze dobře a síly mi vyjdou tak akorát do Topu. Druhá cesta je kolmáč po řezkách, nahoře s boulderem, který přejdeme pouze s Martinem Jeligou, tady byl Top s malou rezervou.
In the afternoon we are waiting for the final. The final route looks good and seems quite easy, though it's true that two moves made me lose my cool a bit. Had I used chalk on time, I could get several moves further, but it is still good enough for the first place. Rishat Khaibullin and Honza Vopat are second and third.
I feel good about my performance but I wonder how would I do compared to the world first class climbers. I guess I should train even harder. I'm really looking forward to the World Cups.
středa 24. března 2021
úterý 16. března 2021
ČP v boulderingu Praha - 1.místo
Závodní sezónu otevřel první pohárový závod v Praze na Jungle parku. I přes aktuální situaci a nutnost PCR testu se sjede hodně lidu – celkem 100 závodníků. Na závod jedu hlavně jako motivátor booster, bouldery teď netrénuji a v moderně postavených cestách je to znát. Kvaldou projdu poměrně dobře a dávám 5 boulderů na max dva pokusy, průtlak v kolmici takticky nezkouším, šetřím sílu do finále a postupuji ze třetího místa za bratry Potůčky.
The competition season started with the first Czech Cup competition at Jungle park in Prague. Despite the current situation and obligatory PCR testing many people arrived - in total there were 100 competitors. My main function was to do a motivation booster, I don't do much of the bouldering training right now as you can see whenever I climb modern routes. I'm doing quite well in the qualification, though, and I climb 5 boulders, none of them with more than 2 attempts. As a part of my strategy I skip the vertical mantel, for I want to spare power for the finals. So I pass from the 3rd place, after the Potůček brothers.
It's quite hard to focus during the final, it starts after 9 p.m. Thanks to my little twins this is usually the time when I'm sound asleep, and without the audience it feels more like a training session. The vertical is nice and pretty damn hard, only Štěpa Potok reaches the zone. The second boulder is a jump with round structures and sharp holds, I need three attempts to get to the top. Number three is a mantel and the easiest boulder of the competition, I score an OS. The last one is pretty tricky and I fall from under the top. My overall score: 2T and 3Z doesn't look very promising, but thanks to big luck and Šimon Potůček's mistake I score the 1st place.
pondělí 1. března 2021
Komínky a Knockout 8B+
V neděli byli asi všichni lezci ČR ve skalách: perfektní počasí, sucho a poslední den, kdy můžeme volně cestovat. To je jedna z věcí, které na lezení miluju – volnost pohybu. Domlouvám se se Štěpánem a jedeme na Moravské písky omrknout Adamův Knockout za 8B+. Rozlezu se na hřebenovém kameni ve Zmrzlém Rameni 7C+ a Vylez 8A, je chladno a fouká, chvíli mi trvá než se aktivuji a trochu je mi smutno ze "zasykovaného" kamene, ale jinak by to tu bylo asi orvané. Pak jdu o patro níže, tam už je veseleji a se Štěpánem zkoušíme krásnou medvědici Nedostatek Zla za 8A. Po pár nálezech máme zprogramováno a vylezeno, za mě spíš 7C+.
Očistím si Knockout a jdu do toho. Úvodní krok, nálet z jednoprstovky daleko do obliny, pak to popřebrat s těžkou patou – tady řeším trošku jinak než Adam – a crux ze stisku doprava do dvouprstové dírky, ze žebříku zkusím ještě závěrečný fix a jdu na pokusy. Různě padám, pata občas vypne, stisk je těžký a asi po hodině pokusů se mi daří probít se doprava do dvouprstovky. Pak už jen fix nahoru, ale tůdle nůdle, v kuse vadnu a nedofixuji. Přesto mám radost – to by mohlo vyjít! A taky že ano, po pauze dávám, mám radost.
I continue climbing with Štěpán, we add a low version of the current boulders and we also start from the right. What a cool climbing day it was: a good training and 4 finished boulders 8A-8A+/B in total. See the video on Štěpán's YouTube. The sun is shining and we don't want to leave at all. Hopefully we'll get there again in three weeks.
úterý 16. února 2021
Warrior 8C FA
V posledních dvou týdnech svíraly ČR třeskuté mrazy. V hlavě stále myslím na projekt v Labáku, na tréninku se cítím dobře a těším se. 14 dní na stěně je dlouhých, ale -8°C, -10°C je fakt moc. Na sobotu ale předpověď hlásila -4°C a sluníčko, takže jedu. Na místě je teplota k –6°C, slunce nikde, lehce fouká, je kosa, banda nadšenců ve skalách. Hlava je nastavená na přelez, takže to jde a po zahřátí můžu dát pokus. Padám v závěrečné pasáži, trochu promrzlý, natečený, chyběly ještě dva kroky.
After a warm up I start trying the project and I fall from the final section, a bit frozen and swollen but I was just two moves away from the top.
I take a long break, then I have one bad and one good attempt and the boulder really makes it clear that I'll need to earn this. I take another break and check out how the guys are doing in Megalodon 8A+. Štěpán just finishes, Fox follows soon. Skálič climbs Marylin, and the level of enthusiasm and hype is increasing. I feel all drained and I doubt that I can finish today, but it feels a bit warmer and I reach the final section for the fourth time, so suddenly I hold the one-finger hole and make sure to finish and get to the top. Yes! Warrior 8C.
I finish the session by Žížalí Propojka 8A and we go home, there is a lot to celebrate today. The video from Warrior by Lukáš Čern7 is coming soon, wait for it as it's really worth it.
středa 3. února 2021
Groot 8A+/B FA - Labák
Venku mrzne, ale je krásně modro a pro bouldristy ta pravá podmínka. Razím do Labáku, po cestě nabírám Lukáše Černého, který bude dokumentovat moje lezení. Na místě leží trocha sněhu a je krásně.
First I plan to finish the project-in-progress – climbing from Avenger to the right. I have a ladder with me, so I can clean the rock. During that I think it through and the very first attempt is successful, even though I made some mistakes. Wow, that was quick! It's a bit harder than Avenger, I call it Groot 8A+/8B.
And then comes the main project of the day - climbing from Marylin to Pig Power Problem. I figure out the right sequence of moves almost immediately, just the link between the boulders is an 8A+. In total it consists of six moves of Marylin for about 8A+/B, 8 moves of the 8A+ link and 6 moves of Pig Power Problem for 8A+ Pretty tough.
I want to work on the 8A+ link, so I start by climbing to the edge of the ceiling from the ladder. Several attempts later I manage to get to the end of Pig Power Problem, which makes me really happy – it proves it's feasible! Then I repeat Marylin. It goes well today, so I twice try to climb the whole project at once and I fall in the beginning of the second half of the boulder. I'm exhausted, so let's call it a day.
pátek 29. ledna 2021
Lešov a Jiskra
Vyrážím zrevidovat projekt na Lešově – krutě převislá deska a tři bočáky daleko od sebe. První krok jde, druhý je unreal, pak dolez 7C. Hledám všemožné přídrže, ale sotva se v převisu držím – to je mega hard, 9A?
After an hour I give up and decide to move to Jiskra.
Most of all I want to try Big Fat Flying Dumbo 8B but it also seems insane. I think the difference in grade is bigger than half of a point. So I flee to Big Frosty 8A+, which is a nice campus line, I fall twice from the jump but the third attempt is successful.
Then I go for Danajský Dar 8A+/B, it takes a while until I find the way and I also quite struggle with the first few moves which the boulder shares with the Jemnost Imaginace boulder. The rest is ok and it's more of an endurance climb. After falling several times from the final part of the boulder I have the necessary knack for it and eventually it's a piece of cake for me. A very nice link, indeed.
pondělí 25. ledna 2021
Babí lom - 8A+ Flash, 8B
V neděli razím na trénink do Brna, ale nejdříve se po rozednění potkávám na Babím lomu se Štěpánem. Půl hodinky kardia do kopce a jsme u Mládeže z Dimenze X za 8B. Pěkná převislá deska, dva úvodní kroky, odpálit to do hrany a hlavně si pohlídat nohy a nedotknout se kamene za zády, což trošku kazí dojem z lezení.
After the warm up and trying the moves I start with the serious attempts but I keep hitting the above mentioned piece of rock with my back, I need a longer rest to prevent swinging too much.
We also try startingfrom the wet edge on the left. The moves are good, the hindering rock isn't such a nuisance there and I guess it could make a nice 8A+. We still have some time left, so I want to try Flash of the 8&1/3D+ 8A+ boulder.
Štěpán gives me some pretty good advice, so I win against the small sharp ledges at the very first attempt!
neděle 17. ledna 2021
Mrazivý Labák
Venku mrzne, ale jsem natěšený na venkovní lezení a zároveň jsou v těchto mrazech skály pěkně vyschlé, a proto razím do Labáku do jeskyně Cavemana. Výšlap do kopce v tom sněhu není žádný med, ale je tu nádherně, skály a sníh působí kouzelně. Sice teploměr ukazoval u auta -5°C, ale v jeskyňce je celkem příjemně a hned se pouštím do projektu, který vede trhlinkou celým stropem. Bohužel i když je taková zima, trhlinka je stále maličko vlhká, to asi nikdy nevyschne. Hlavně prosím nevysoušet hořákem.
Dál koukám na projekt v levé části jeskyně, do kterého jsem se také minule pověsil. V klíčové dírce je narvaný klacek – proč? Tím se dírka zvětšila a je na dva prsty. Škoda, mohlo to být těžší.
There are some tiny ledges in the crack, which gradually get larger. It takes me about an hour to find the right programme and another hour is gone until I get through the initial section. The rest is familiar so I finish the whole boulder – Prehistorik 8B/8B+? See the video below, unfortunately it is difficult to place the camera properly so you can't see everything.
I also check out the project on the left which I tried last time. A twig is stuffed in the crux hole – why? The hole got larger due to that and now it's a two-finger hole. Too bad, the boulder could be more difficult.
The climb has two difficult moves in a big overhang, first one has to engage the core and keep the feet on the footholds, then there is a jump to a crack and a fingerhole. It goes well and once I figure out the moves I need just few attempts to finish. I thought it was an 8B but I change my mind: Megalodon 8A+, come and try the moves, they're amazing.
I move to Heel Hooker 8B, last time I almost finished the boulder so this time I climb it quite quickly but I still think it's quite a challenge. I also add the Pro Slečinky 8A boulder and try to go to the right from Toxic Avenger, about 8B, but I don't feel like trying this alone, so I keep it for the next visit.
středa 13. ledna 2021
Teorie Tygra 8B+ FA
V plánu byl Labák, ale někde vzadu v hlavě stále myslím na projekt ve Vesci, a tak po cestě sjíždím z hlavní silnice a jdu omrknout kámen. Převis je krásně suchý, výlez pod sněhem, ale ten už je snadný. Jedu do Kauflandu pro koště, očistím výlez, nazuji lezečky a v tu ránu začíná sněžit.
Guli je ve sněhu šťastný, mně tolik do zpěvu není, při opakování kroků musím neustále ometat matice a sušit lezečky, ale cítím se dobře a tak trochu čekám, že přestane sněžit. Po hodině nepřestává a vypadá to, že ani nepřestane.
Guli is having lots of fun with the snow but I'm not that happy, I need to keep sweeping the snow from the mats and drying up my shoes, but I feel good and I guess the snowing would stop soon. But an hour later it still doesn't and it seems it never will.
I clean the finish and then I try to climb the whole boulder. I feel strong and make no mistakes, so I soon get to the final section. Now I just need to get through the frozen finish, which I do, despite a small slip on the way. Teorie Tygra 8B+.
pondělí 11. ledna 2021
Leda Kost Low 8B+ FA
Snow doesn't give us any chance to finish the project at Vesec so I take the whole family to Kras. It takes a while until I figure out the initial moves, there are four interesting moves (about 8A in total) very close to the ground, followed by the Leda Kost boulder. I keep falling from the first section but once I reach Leda Kost I continue right to the top, the whole boulder is probably an 8B+? The boys fall asleep so we try to make a video but I already lack power for the last move.
neděle 20. prosince 2020
Vesec - Bílý Tygr SD 8B a další
Nad ČR se stále vznáší inverze, v Krasu déšť, v Labáku se loví kapři, takže kam? Fox mě láká na Vesec, a i když chvilkami mrholí, stojí to za to. Doráží ještě Majzlík, být tu s klukama je pohlazení po duši, i v nejlepších letech jsou stále motivovaní – to jsou pro mě teď vzory: nejde o to lézt největší bomby, ale mít to nadšení a lásku k lezení.
Před 5 lety jsem tu vylezl nádhernou lajnu Bílý Tygr za 8A+, nikdo ještě nepřidal SD, a tak je cíl jasný. Po zahřátí dávám pokusy, lehce mrholí, po čtyřech nálezech se dostávám přes těžkou úvodní patu do výlezu a teču z mokré hrany – dobrý pokus. Očistím výlez, pár pádů dole v patě a jsem nahoře. Celé tedy 8B? Foxovi to jde také pěkně.
Five years ago I've climbed an amazing Bílý Tygr 8A+ line here, nobody has done the SD version since, so my goal for today is clear. After the warm up I start trying. It's still drizzling and four attempts later I overcome a heel at the beginning and fall from the edge – it was a good one. I clean the finish, fall several times from the heel and then I'm up. So, the whole boulder could be an 8B? Fox is doing great, too.
Several local young climbers also show up – I haven't seen so many people here for quite a time. I try to get to the right from Tygr, through the celing to MD, I would need to engage the biceps and hang down. I guess I can do this – but next time. It's about 8B+?
In the meantime I repeat Pýcha a Pád 8A and also I climb another project at Jezevčík - Levhart Sněžný 8A/+? Vesec is alive today, so climbing here is more fun and worth the time. Thanks for the session and see you soon!
středa 9. prosince 2020
Kambek na Vlně - 8B, 8B, 8B/+ FA
Lately I've made two visits to the bouldering paradise in the north. First I went to Labák where I wanted to work on Piece of My Life 8B+. As a warm up boulder I choose the unrepeated Wave 8B/B+, the beginning is easy, the following section over Mažoret is a bit harder but the finish is easy again. After practicing the moves it gives up early, I'd say the grade could be an easy 8B or maybe just an 8A+?
I move to Piece of My Life, whose first section I've climbed last time – an 8B from left to right. Today I want to climb the second part – Pomerančový Mechanismus 8B. I was thinking this part would be easier but the moves are much trickier than I thought. Eventually, I find the right footholds and I finally finish it. The whole Piece of My Life is going to be really tough. I hope the knee pad would work and help me with the middle section of the boulder. I also try Mažoret and the long reach gets me through the crux, but then I'm just too tense to be able to continue. But it would certainly be interesting to climb it without the rock in the bottom.
Then I go to Modřín with Štěpán as we are planning to climb the Comeback SD project. I warm up at Pravěk 7C+/8A, unfortunately I break off the crucial hold, so I have to choose a bit different programme than Zeros. I send it at the second attempt, now I guess it's more of an 8A? Then I go for Comeback and struggle with the moves, the first section is quite ok but I can't figure out how to move to the standing version. The rest is ok, only one of the holds is wet so I have to adjust the programme. As always, I just need to push hard. My attempts are gradually getting better until I fall from the last difficult move and my left arm tells me it has had it enough for now.
I need some rest so I follow Štěpán to Hampi Style 8A. He's doing great and falls from under the top edge. After an hour of a rest I feel good enough to try again so I send at the first attempt, the grade is the usual 8B/8B+, or maybe it could be an 8B+?
čtvrtek 3. prosince 2020
ME Moskva 2020
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Boulder Qualis |
First we competed in the individual disciplines and the top 20 then passed to the combined competition. The first day was devoted to climbing for speed, which I don't like much. Last time I was climbing a speed route at the World Championship in Hachioji, I scored 9,8s and the 33rd place. Then there was the bouldering competition, the qualification was pretty tight and I only passed thanks to the OS of the last power boulder.
The semifinal was pretty similar, the first power boulder really suited me and I climbed it OS, the only other climber who scored OS was Sergey Luzhetsky. The second boulder is a vertical and I struggle with it, under the top I can't lift the leg to the hand and, as I learn later, it costs me passing to the final... The third boulder has a hard start and I manage to jump to the zone 20 seconds before the end of the time limit, what I don't realize, though, is that the zone is just the small hold, not the whole structure, so grabbing the structure does not count as a zone. The fourth boulder is a coordination climb and it's awesome, but I don't shine that much. In total I earn a nice 11th place, which is good, but I'm a bit disappointed as the final was really close.
On the next day we have a qualification in climbing for difficulty and I feel quite tired from the bouldering competition. However, the routes don't have any difficult places and it's all just about endurance, really, so I pass to the semifinal from the 6th place.
The semifinal goes well, I don't make any mistakes and fall from under the top, so I pass to the final from the 5th place and I'm really happy about that. It's always an amazing experience to take part in the final of a huge event. The final route is again mostly about endurance, which is not very good for me. I make a small mistake in the final section of the route so I end up 6th. I was very close to scoring one of the first three places but I'm still happy about the result, I was doing really well.
We had a free day after five days of competing, but I would actually prefer to continue climbing because as long as we've been climbing, I was feeling better day by day and after the rest it got somehow worse.
So first there is speed climbing. I earn the 19th place, which is not the worst result. Then there are the boulders the very first of theme is quite easy but I fall from under the top. The following ones are quite similar and I make it to the top, but they are too easy, so I only get the 15th place. So I really need to shine in climbing for difficulty. I'm doing very well but in the final section I spread the arms too much and go down, so in the end I'm 5th. In total I score the 15th place in the combined competition and it's a priceless experience to try all three disciplines in one day.
The final is great for the Russian team, Meshkova and Rubtsov qualify for the Olympic games. It was a real nailbiter, but unfortunately the poor performance of the builders played a crucial part in the results because the time, not the performance, was what decided in the climbing for difficulty. The routes were just a bit too easy. You can watch the videos at the Russia Climbing or IFSC climbing Youtube channels. I would like to thank everyone who took care of us during the competition and made the 10 days in Moscow a truly pleasant experience.
středa 11. listopadu 2020
New classics v Labáku
Po pár dnech zpět v Labáku, tentokrát se Štěpánem a Hřensko. Nejprve zastávka u Toxika, jdu do nedolezené kombinace Half of Toxic Avenger a Pig Power Problemu, po rozlezu jeden pád z vršku a druhým dávám - Toxický Prase za 8B/B+, krásná vytrvalostní linka.
We the move to a new cave – Caveman. First I try Hard Morning of the Caveman 8A and in a little while I break off the second hold - this makes the boulder a bit harder but I quickly climb it anyway. I also try a project with two super power moves and bad feet. I try to jump to the crack in the ceiling and one of the attempts is successful, so I finish the whole thing - Super Hard Morning of the Caveman, about 8B.
I clean a project on the left from the entrance to the cave but I don't feel like teasing the fingerhole – the European Championship in Moscow is coming soon. But the moves are awesome and it's super difficult.
I watch Štěpán for a while and when Michal Barchánek arrives I go and check out the new Heel Hooker 8B boulder. I have zero chance for Flash and I don't actually mind, I try Vasil's way and several attempts are really promising but I lack power for the finish. At the end of the session I do Retardér 7C Flash and on my way back to the car I also finish the project at Faker – Mono Architekt 8A – or is it a 7C+? You should come and try.
neděle 8. listopadu 2020
Old Classics v Labáku
Konečně přestává pršet a nastává ideální boulder podmínka. V pátek ještě vyrážím na Krkavku, pro svého lezeckého HK parťáka. Přiváží 2climb posilovací desku, a tak rovnou zalezeme. Skála je proteklá, i přesto téměř prolezu Stargatou za 11-.
V sobotu ráno nemůžu dospat a po sedmé hodině ranní jsem ve skalách, natěšení je veliké. Pro dnešek jsem si naordinoval revizi starých Rosťových boulderů. Začínám na stěnce, kde jsme se Štěpánem kdysi lezli Analogovou Variantu 7C. Tady mě zajímá traverz Steve Prefountain za 8Btr, který je vstupenkou do Piece of My Life 8B+.
On Saturday morning I can't wait to be climbing. My plan for today is to revisit some old boulders by Rosťa. I start on the wall where Štěpán and me had been climbing Analogová Varianta 7C long ago. I'm interested in the Steve Prefountain 8B traverse, a ticket to Piece of My Life 8B+.
Even though I'm doing my best, I can't figure out a climbing programme that would work for me. The holes and ledges are just too tiny so I move on to Porta Bohemica 8B+, a boulder from 2002.
It's an interesting wall with cool round ledges, the feet are bad and it ends a bit strange but – well, whatever. You've got what you've got. I start trying the moves and proceed backwards, the finish is ok but I get stuck in the middle and for a while I can't figure out what to do. The first two attempts are bad, I get swollen and then it's over, but the third attempt actually works, though it was a pretty narrow win. As far as I'm concerned it could be just an 8B.
I return to the hill and I finally find the way to approach Steve Prefountain. I try to finish it but it's too hard to lower the legs, my knee and shoulder hurt like hell. I try it once again but I fall soon, so I want to quit but at the very moment I give up I somehow manage to make my way to the top, I guess it's another 8B. Awesome! And who knows – next time I may climb there and back again - and score Piece of My Life.
pátek 30. října 2020
neděle 25. října 2020
Monument 8B FA na Modřínu
V sobotu razím na sever, užít si našeho nejlepšího písku: v plánu je Labák, ale všechno je totál mokré. Zkouším tedy vyjet na kopec a omrknout starý projekt u Mandragory na Modřínu. Na kopci je krásně slunečno, projekt je hodně vlhký, ale pofukuje, a tak běžím zpět pro matice a jdu lézt.
The moves are really nice and I slowly make my way through the boulder. The holds are gradually drying up and two hours later I get over the crux. It's super sunny and hot and thanks to that even the first few ledges of Mandragora gradually dry up.
I'm doing quite well, I even get to Fenomén and fall from the last move. I have a break and a call with Štěpán and once I see a cloud coming I turn off the phone and finish the thing – Monument 8B. Don't be shy and go for it, too, so you can confirm the grade - it may be an 8B/+?. And, above all, you'll have loads of fun climbing, Modřín is awesome!
pondělí 19. října 2020
Sklapsko 8A+/B, 8B FA, 8A, 8A+/8B FA
We then move to Špičkový Výkon 8A, but what about the scratches on the rock? Some holds are wet, but fortunately it's not a problem, so I need just two attempts to get to the top again, maybe it's just a 7C?
Our last stop is the Chíro sector where we check out the amazing Dach Co Budí Strach and we also climb some stuff near Jemark. After half an hour I sort out the project across the ceiling and climb it. I call it Partyzánský Bojovník 8A+/B, the moves are surprisingly interesting. Climbing the whole ceiling is possible, too, but we don't have time and conditions to try it today.