Po nedobrých zkušenostech s počasím v letech 2008 a 2009 jsem následující roky jezdil v zimě drtit převážně švýcarskou žulu. Moji malý kluci už pěkně běhají nicméně švýcarské kameny pro děti nejsou příliš přístupné a tak letos byl ideální čas se opět vrátit do Fontáče u užít si pískovec pospolu. Nakonec se situace vyvine tak, že jede i Štěpánova rodinka a kluci kameramani, kteří náš pobyt zdokumentovali a bude brzy online. Pobyt byl skvělý i přesto, že počasí nám příliš nepřálo, mlhy, teplo, deště, až v den odjezdu se udělala pravá lezecká podmínka.
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| Cul de Chien |
Hajlajtem šesti lezeckých dní pro mě byl rychlý přelez boulderu Méchanique Élementaire za 8B+ v oblasti Recloses Sud. Nejtěžší je úvodní krok boulderu, jakmile se mi jej podaří udělat, proběhnu stropem do záverečného vývlaje společného s boulderem Opium, kde jednou vypadnu, podruhé pohlídám a dolízám navrchol kamene. Dalším těžkým boulderem je Ubik 8A/+ respektive jeho Assis varianta za 8B, poměrně netradiční font boulder, kde obtíže spočívají v campusování po oblinách. Variantu ze stoje se mi podaří vyladit po cca hodince, hned nalezu do Assis verze, ale déšť nás vyhání. Další den hned z první posílám i Assis variantu. Dalšími bouldery pro mě jsou Conviction 8A, Trojan War 8A, Opium 8A, L Oeil De La Cybille 7C+, Éclipse 7C.
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| Conviction 8A by Nevělík |
Dále jsem nalezl do jednoho z nejznámějších boulderů The Big Island ze 8C. I přesto, že mám kroky téměř na hranici rozpětí, tak se mi daří boulder zkrokovat, při druhé session vyladit a v den odjezdu, kdy se ochladí bylo v plánu dávat ostré pokusy, ale tvrdá kůže mi nedává šanci na přelez a v oblinách kloužu. Dobrý důvod se jednou vrátit.
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| The Big Island 8C by Nevělík |
Nejenom jsme lezli, ale v den restu vlakem navštívili Paříž, prošli zámecké zahrady ve Fontainebleau, ale navíc není čas, týden uběhl jako voda a v ČR nás vítá zima. Jsme rád, že jsme s Kačkou a dětma vše zvládli bez problémů a těším se, až spolu zase někam za boulderingem vyrazíme.
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| Fontainebleau |
After some bad experience with weather in 2008 and 2009, I have been mostly going climbing on Swiss granite in winter. My little boys are already running on their own feet, but the Swiss rocks aren't much accessible for children, so this year was the perfect time to return to Fontainebleau and enjoy the sandstone together. In the end, Štěpán's family and the cameramen who documented our trip joined us, and the record will be available online soon. The stay was great despite the fact that the weather was not very good: we had fog, heat, rain, and only on the day of departure there were the right climbing conditions.
For me the highlight of the six climbing days was the fast climb of the Méchanique Élementaire 8B+ boulder in the Recloses Sud area. The first move of the boulder is the most difficult one, so as soon as I manage to do it, I get through the ceiling to the final part, shared with the Opium boulder, where I fall once but then I make sure to finish the climb. Another difficult boulder is the Ubik 8A/+ or its Assis version for 8B, a rather unconventional font boulder, where the difficulties lie in campus climbing along round structures. I manage to tune the stand-up version after about an hour, then I start working on the Assis version straight away, but the rain drives us away. The next day, I send the Assis version right at the first attempt. My other achievements are Conviction 8A, Trojan War 8A, Opium 8A, L Oeil De La Cybille 7C+, Éclipse 7C.
I also found one of the most famous boulders, The Big Island 8C. Despite the fact that the moves are almost out of my reach, I manage to do all of them separately, then I tune it up during the second session and on the day of departure, when it gets cold, the plan was to start with serious attempts. However, the hard skin does not give me a chance to finish the climb as I slide on the round rock. A good reason to come back one day.
Besides climbing we visited Paris by train on our rest day, we took a walk in the castle gardens in Fontainebleau, but there is no time, the week flew by and winter welcomes us back in the Czech Republic. We are glad that Kačka and the children could be there and there were no trubles and I look forward to going bouldering together again.
For me the highlight of the six climbing days was the fast climb of the Méchanique Élementaire 8B+ boulder in the Recloses Sud area. The first move of the boulder is the most difficult one, so as soon as I manage to do it, I get through the ceiling to the final part, shared with the Opium boulder, where I fall once but then I make sure to finish the climb. Another difficult boulder is the Ubik 8A/+ or its Assis version for 8B, a rather unconventional font boulder, where the difficulties lie in campus climbing along round structures. I manage to tune the stand-up version after about an hour, then I start working on the Assis version straight away, but the rain drives us away. The next day, I send the Assis version right at the first attempt. My other achievements are Conviction 8A, Trojan War 8A, Opium 8A, L Oeil De La Cybille 7C+, Éclipse 7C.
I also found one of the most famous boulders, The Big Island 8C. Despite the fact that the moves are almost out of my reach, I manage to do all of them separately, then I tune it up during the second session and on the day of departure, when it gets cold, the plan was to start with serious attempts. However, the hard skin does not give me a chance to finish the climb as I slide on the round rock. A good reason to come back one day.
Besides climbing we visited Paris by train on our rest day, we took a walk in the castle gardens in Fontainebleau, but there is no time, the week flew by and winter welcomes us back in the Czech Republic. We are glad that Kačka and the children could be there and there were no trubles and I look forward to going bouldering together again.
