Závody dávají na chvíli pauzu a je čas užít si skal, v létě kde jinde než v Krasu, kde je stále co lézt. Zaměřuji se na velkou výzvu - chci vylézt Síla je Kouzlo (8B+) ze sedu, což přidá poměrně komplikovanou sekvenci kroků (samostatně tak za 8A+), celé to tedy jde někam do výšin za 8C! V pátek mám první session, rozlezu se na H5N2 low za 8A+/B a přesouvám se do jeskyně. Nejprve si zopakuji Síla Je Kouzlo a asi pátým pokusem se mi daří boulder přelézt, mám velkou radost, protože se v převisu cítím super silně a vím, že 8C bude viset ve vzduchu.
Playground
Úvodní kroky jsem už minule pruboval a tak nějak jsem přišel i na betu, v pátek se mi ale daří přijít na trošku komplikovanější, leč jistější postup. Stihnu ještě pár pokusů, úvodem se mi daří proběhnout a padám v úvodních krocích Síla je Kouzlo. Na závěr dne se ještě pověsím do Lamače Dívčích Srdcí 8A+, po pár pokusech se boulderem probíjím a tím pokusem dávám i prodloužení - Zlomené Srdce 8A+/B.
Druhá session se odehraje v neděli, sejde se pěkná společnost a doráží i Adam Ondra, bylo fajn si spolu zase po dlouhé době zalézt a vidět ten jeho balet. Dnes je trochu zavlhlo a vlastně teprve když přijde Adam, se mi podaří dát dobrý pokus - moc dobrý: pád v posledním kroku s pohlazením závěrečného madla, to bylo o kousek. Odjíždíme a Adam ještě dává pokus - vylezl, nevylezl?
Projekt 8C
Těším se na další session, převis je nekompromisní a dává neskutečné bomby do rukou a celého těla.
Right now I don't have any competitions on my to-do list so it's high time to go out and enjoy the rocks. And Kras is an ideal place for summer - there is always something interesting to climb. This time I'm facing a great challenge - climbing Síla je Kouzlo (8B+) from sitting. This version adds a complicated series of moves (about an 8A+ just by itself), and the whole seems to be more than 8C! On Friday I have my first session, warming up with H5N2 low 8A+/B and then moving to the cave. First I repeat Síla Je Kouzlo and finish it at the fifth attempt. I'm happy, I feel super strong in the overhang and I think I'm very close to finish 8C, too.
I've already tried the initial moves and sort of found a beta, but on Friday I figure out a bit more complicated but also a more secure way to climb it. I make several attempts, I do the initial part but then I fall from the beginning of Síla je kouzlo. At the end of the day I go for Lamač Dívčích Srdcí 8A+, too, a few attempts later I finish and within the very same attempt I also climb the prolonged version of it - Zlomené Srdce 8A+/B.
The second session takes place on Sunday, there is a good company there, and Adam Ondra comes, too - it was very nice to climb together after a while and watch Adam dance on the rock. Today it's a bit moist and I don't have any good attempts before Adam comes - but the first promising attempt is a really good one: I fall from the last move, touching the bucket... that was close. We leave and Adam stays to make one last attempt - did he climb it? Did he not?
I'm looking forward to the next session, the overhang is cruel and pretty tough to the arms and the rest of the body.
Right now I don't have any competitions on my to-do list so it's high time to go out and enjoy the rocks. And Kras is an ideal place for summer - there is always something interesting to climb. This time I'm facing a great challenge - climbing Síla je Kouzlo (8B+) from sitting. This version adds a complicated series of moves (about an 8A+ just by itself), and the whole seems to be more than 8C! On Friday I have my first session, warming up with H5N2 low 8A+/B and then moving to the cave. First I repeat Síla Je Kouzlo and finish it at the fifth attempt. I'm happy, I feel super strong in the overhang and I think I'm very close to finish 8C, too.
I've already tried the initial moves and sort of found a beta, but on Friday I figure out a bit more complicated but also a more secure way to climb it. I make several attempts, I do the initial part but then I fall from the beginning of Síla je kouzlo. At the end of the day I go for Lamač Dívčích Srdcí 8A+, too, a few attempts later I finish and within the very same attempt I also climb the prolonged version of it - Zlomené Srdce 8A+/B.
The second session takes place on Sunday, there is a good company there, and Adam Ondra comes, too - it was very nice to climb together after a while and watch Adam dance on the rock. Today it's a bit moist and I don't have any good attempts before Adam comes - but the first promising attempt is a really good one: I fall from the last move, touching the bucket... that was close. We leave and Adam stays to make one last attempt - did he climb it? Did he not?
I'm looking forward to the next session, the overhang is cruel and pretty tough to the arms and the rest of the body.
Žádné komentáře:
Okomentovat