Ve čtvrtek proběhl u Adama na
campusu Grand Prix Mnichov, tedy druhý díl campusového desetiboje. Máme nového
člena Vojtu Lička, všichni si vytvoříme osobní rekordy. V sobotu ráno
ještě ruce z campusu lehce bolí,
počasí nic moc, nakonec valíme na Petráč. První zastávkou je Vlčí kopec a
k našemu překvapení jsou skály suché, jenom výlezy pod sněhem. Náš střed
zájmu je na Pevnosti, po nějaké hoďince Štěpán vyleze Vlčí Med 7C+/8A a já
nejprve Karavanu Mraků 7C a poté prodloužení Stepního Vlka 8A/A+.
Dál Štěpán zkouší Stepního Vlka,
začátek ještě jednou překoná, ale padá v prvních krocích Karavany mraků.
Já ladím Křik a Pláč 8A+/B, ale spárka je zavlhlá a závěrečné kroky ani
nezkrokuju. Ze srandy se postavím pod Klukovský
Sen 8A+, jeden z nejvážnějších skoků na Petráči. Po pár pokusech se
blížím k liště až ji nakonec udržím, tu to ještě není lehké, ale pár
pokusů to spraví.
Čistím si ještě výlez Těžký Vody
8A a jedeme na Vyhlídkovou skálu. Jdu na Nočník a pokouším Froda Nakole 8B.
Nejlepším pokusem se mi podaří dolézt do Kola, ale právě v tom pokusu si i
natrhnu malíček v malých spoďáku a pak s tejpkou už to není ono. Štěpán ladí mokrou Rudou Armádu, Špekmena. Tu pšenka nepokvete a tak se přemisťujeme
na Panelstory 7C . Mě se daří poměrně
rychlý přelez, leč přišlo nám to na místní podmínky tvrdší céčko, jsme
v kolmicích slabí. Jednou nalezu do Corbusniera 8A, zaberu za lištu a dírka
v prstu. Pomalu se vracíme k autu, Štěpán zkouší opět vlhkou Elzu 8A,
já koukám po Ufo Bábě SD 8A+, která byla naopak krásně suchá. No a kam jsem
dolezl se podívejte na videu, opět jsem pocítil, co to jsou bandasky.
Druhý den ráno brzy vstáváme, za
prvé kvůli podmínce a za druhé, ať stihnem zalézt než přijde sněžení. Štěpán se
rozehřívá ve Stepním Vlku, ale nějak se mu nedaří správně se aktivovat. Já se
rozlézám v lehkým a pak jdu na Těžkou
Vodu 8A. Pomalu se prodírám kroky, lokty se už ozývají, nakonec
s trochou štěstí posílám viz video.
Tak a teď nastane doba temna se
skálami, max Škrovád, ale hlavně trénink na Světové poháry!
Another Štěpán's attempt was Stepní vlk before he fell from the first part of Karavana mraků. I was tuning Křik a pláč (8A+/B) but the cleft was too moist. I even couldn't figure out the final moves. Just for the heck, I also tried Klukovský sen (8A+), one of the most serious things here. I could keep myself on the edge after a few attempts. It was not easy but in a few attempts, it will be ok.
After finalising my moves at Těžká voda (8A), we went for Vyhlídková skála. I tried Nočník and Frodo na kole (8B). I managed to finish the latter but it cost me hurted pinky and it was not that great afterwards. Then we moved towards Panelstory 7C. I did quite a fast ascend. However, with regard to the local conditions, we found it as a rather difficult C stuff. We were pretty weak in the vertical things. I dipped into Corbusier (8A) but I hurt my finger again. Slowly returning towards the car, Štěpán tried (wet) Elza (8A) again whereas I occupied myself with Ufo bába SD (8A+) which was, on the contrary, dry. What I accomplished can be seen on the video.
We got up early the next day to manage to climb something before the snow. Štěpán warmed up at Stepní vlk yet he had a hard time to get active. I used Těžká voda. Slowly going through the moves, I could feel my elbows. In the end, I luckily sent it (see the video again).
Then we were finished and went home, making a stop at Čertovy hrady. The rocks did not look bad as we were approchaing, but it was no smashing success either. At first, I did the edge of Briliant (7C), then proceeded to do a project together with Štěpán. It wasn't that exciting so I gave up after a while. Then it was sent by Štěpán so I forced myself to do it as well. Done at the 3rd attempt. A new boulder is born: Růže z Jericha (about 7C+/8A).
Well and now the dark time is coming. We could do Škrovád but that's the limit. We have to focus on the World cups!
Petrovice and Čertovy hrady
Grand Prix Mnichov, the second part of the Campus decathlon, took place at Adam's on Thursday. We greated a new member, Vojta Liček. All of us created their personal bests. Our hands still hurt on Saturday morning and the weather was not great wither. In the end, we chose "Petráč". Our first stop was Vlčí kopec. To our surprise, the rocks were dry. Just the ascend areas were under snow. We focused on Pevnost. After an hour or so, Štěpán climbed up Vlčí med (7C+/8A). I started with Karavana mraků (7C), then the extended variant of Stepní vlk (8A/+).Another Štěpán's attempt was Stepní vlk before he fell from the first part of Karavana mraků. I was tuning Křik a pláč (8A+/B) but the cleft was too moist. I even couldn't figure out the final moves. Just for the heck, I also tried Klukovský sen (8A+), one of the most serious things here. I could keep myself on the edge after a few attempts. It was not easy but in a few attempts, it will be ok.
After finalising my moves at Těžká voda (8A), we went for Vyhlídková skála. I tried Nočník and Frodo na kole (8B). I managed to finish the latter but it cost me hurted pinky and it was not that great afterwards. Then we moved towards Panelstory 7C. I did quite a fast ascend. However, with regard to the local conditions, we found it as a rather difficult C stuff. We were pretty weak in the vertical things. I dipped into Corbusier (8A) but I hurt my finger again. Slowly returning towards the car, Štěpán tried (wet) Elza (8A) again whereas I occupied myself with Ufo bába SD (8A+) which was, on the contrary, dry. What I accomplished can be seen on the video.
We got up early the next day to manage to climb something before the snow. Štěpán warmed up at Stepní vlk yet he had a hard time to get active. I used Těžká voda. Slowly going through the moves, I could feel my elbows. In the end, I luckily sent it (see the video again).
Then we were finished and went home, making a stop at Čertovy hrady. The rocks did not look bad as we were approchaing, but it was no smashing success either. At first, I did the edge of Briliant (7C), then proceeded to do a project together with Štěpán. It wasn't that exciting so I gave up after a while. Then it was sent by Štěpán so I forced myself to do it as well. Done at the 3rd attempt. A new boulder is born: Růže z Jericha (about 7C+/8A).
Well and now the dark time is coming. We could do Škrovád but that's the limit. We have to focus on the World cups!