Původně byl v plánu trénink v Innsbrucku a lezení v Zillertalu, ale nůžky do toho hodila "chřipečka", a tak mě vítr zavanul do Sklapska na nové 8C od Willa Bossiho. Jedná se o Charizarda v protisměru do jednoho z nej 8A+ u nás, a to Fénixových Slz.
Bulbasaur 8C
Kroky jsem zkoušel již vloni, ale jeden krok jsem ani nenaznačil. Jedu poprvé v pátek, je okolo 15 stupňů, ale má přijít ochlazení a pokud se mi podaří zkrokovat, bude ještě šance na přelez. A povedlo se. Klíčem byla mikro přídrž, kterou jsem vlastně vloni ani nezkoušel podržet, ale jak je malinká lišta ostrá, tak se za ní lze přidržet a přehodit nohy doprava.
Podruhé razím v neděli brzy ráno, je pod nulou a bez větru, ideální. Pokusuji, padám vždy na začátku, ale po hodince se mi jednou podaří přejít úvodní místo a vlivem natečení padám až v posledních krocích. Mám radost, vím, že to dříve nebo později vylezu. Další půl hodiny se zase plácám na začátku, lišty se zařezávají do kůže, ale ještě jednou projdu začátkem a přelez už si nenechávám ujít.
Bulbasaur 8C
Originally, I was thinking about a training session in Innsbruck and a
climbing session in Zillertal, but a "flu" ruined all these plans and in
the end I went to check out the new 8C by Will Bossi in Sklapsko –
Charizard backwards, ending with one of the best Czech 8A+ boulders:
Fénixovy Slzy.
I tried the moves last year but one of these was absolutely impossible for me back then. First I went on Friday, it's about 15 degrees but the forecast says it will get colder, so if I manage to do the moves, I still have a chance to finish the whole boulder. And I did. It was crucial to use a tiny sharp ledge and get the feet to the right.
My second visit is on Sunday, the temperature is slightly below zero and the wind isn't blowing, which is perfect. I keep falling at the very beginning but suddenly, after an hour of futile attempts, I get further and fall from the finish due to swelling. I'm happy for now I'm sure I can finish this one. For another half an hour I can't get through the beginning and my fingers are cut by the sharp ledges, but once I get further I make sure that the climb is successful.
I tried the moves last year but one of these was absolutely impossible for me back then. First I went on Friday, it's about 15 degrees but the forecast says it will get colder, so if I manage to do the moves, I still have a chance to finish the whole boulder. And I did. It was crucial to use a tiny sharp ledge and get the feet to the right.
My second visit is on Sunday, the temperature is slightly below zero and the wind isn't blowing, which is perfect. I keep falling at the very beginning but suddenly, after an hour of futile attempts, I get further and fall from the finish due to swelling. I'm happy for now I'm sure I can finish this one. For another half an hour I can't get through the beginning and my fingers are cut by the sharp ledges, but once I get further I make sure that the climb is successful.
