Uff, to byl týden. Stále to zpracovávám, rovnám si myšlenky, cítím se namotivovaně, ve formě, šťastně. Povedly se dvě medaile – neskutečný. Medaile beru s pokorou, neboť tu chyběla velká trojka připravující se na olympiádu – Adam Ondra, Alex Megos a Jakob Schubert, ti by pravděpodobně do stupňů vítězů promluvili.
Francie
Uplynulý týden se konaly dva světové poháry ve Francii v krásných lokalitách Chamonix a Briancon. Razím s rodinkou, pohoda na závodech je pro mě důležitá, mohu se alespoň psychicky odreagovat při přebalování a zároveň je tu velká podpora od Kačky. V první kvalifikaci v Chamonix udělám malinkou chybku, těsně pod Topem se špatně postavím a šmyknu, druhá cesta je brutal silovka a v té se mi zadaří dolézt mezi nejlepšími a postoupit do semifinále z děleného 13. místa. Semifinále se kvůli počasí leze trochu neobvykle ještě ve stejný den a vychází mi skvěle, ve vytrvalostní cestě nechybuji a dolézám do závěrečného headwallu, vypadá to na těsný nepostup do finále, ale ti nejlepší z kvalifikace chybují a nakonec postupuji ze 6. místa do svého 3. finále v lezení na obtížnost v životě.
Semifinále by Zumr
Semifinále IFSC
Po takovém semifinále kluci usnou jako dudci, já jsem ale plný emocí a dlouho do noci si opakuji momenty ze semifinálové cesty a těším se na finále. Čekání na finále je zdlouhavé, v Chamonix prší, člověk nechce moc jíst, moc ležet ani být příliš aktivní, aby byl večer na 100% ready. Finále v Chamonix je výjimečné, v pozadí Mont Blanc, spousta diváků, krásný zážitek. Do cesty nastoupím klidně, rozjedu to od začátku, při nálezu do převisu mě překvapí, jak špatné chyty jsou, a vracím se. To je chyba, která mě stojí síly, a pak je to boj o každý chyt, cesta je brutální, dolézám kousek za polovinu a myslím si, že se z 6. místa příliš neposunu. Jenže s dalšími závodníky se ukazuje, jak moc je ta cesta těžká, a stoupám pořadím až na neskutečné 3. místo! Euforie!
Finále by Zumr
Stupně vítězů by Lenadrapella
Finále IFSC
Další dny trávíme v Chamonix, v plánu bylo užít si atmosféru Chamonix v plné kráse, ale počasí trochu kazí plány, dáme jeden trénink na místní stěně a přesun do Brianconu.
Chamonix
Do Brianconu se těším, je tam největší převis na okruhu Světového poháru,. Snad budou těžké kvalifikace, říkám si. A byly. Hodně těžké cesty, nepadne ani jeden Top, cestami procházím perfektně a výsledkem je 4. postupové místo do večerního semifinále. Semifinále je trochu více vytrvalostní, cestou procházím dobře, běžím a dolézám kousek pod Top, z reakcí publika cítím, že to bude dobré, a dokonce další postup do finále, yes!
Semifinále by Virt
Semifinále IFSC
Nakonec poměrně pohodlný postup, opět ze 4. místa, dost dobrej den. Opět poměrně dlouhé čekání na finále, ale užíváme krásného prostředí s rodinkou, kluci mě nabíjejí energií. Při finále se střídá silný déšť se slunečními paprsky, na lezeckou podmínku to naštěstí nemá vliv. Finálová cesta vypadá poměrně těžce, ale nakonec to není takové peklo jako v Chamonix. Cesty v kolech na Onsight se mi lezou dobře, díky zkušenostem se mi daří trefovat správné sekvence kroků, na startu to nakopnu a hrnu to, co to dá. V cestě tentokrát dělám jen malinkou chybku, dolézám do závěrečného headwallu, malý odpočinek a chci valit dál, následuje malá oblinka, překvapuje mě, jak je špatná, v tu chvíli si uvědomím, že jsem měl odpočinout déle, zkusím poskočit do spoďáčku a jdu k zemi. Jsem spokojený , ale cítím, že to mohlo být lepší, ale vyvarovat se chybiček ve finále téměř nejde. Výkonem se dostávám do vedení, lezou ještě tři lezci, Dimitry překvapuje a přelézá mě, Sean Bailey, taky tak trošku překvapivě, padá pode mnou, mám jistotu další bedny. Stefano Ghisolfi leze rozvážně, na hraně převisu uklouzne a neskutečně se udrží na stěně, dolézá nejdál a zaslouženě vítězí. Pro mě tedy další bronzová medaile!
Finále by Slooten
Stupně vítězů by Slooten
Finále IFSC
Moc všem děkuji za hezké zprávy a blahopřání, je skvělé cítit tu podporu! Teď neusnout na vavřínech a valit trénink dál, už za měsíc mě čeká Rockmaster v kolébce sportovního lezení italském Arcu a pár dní poté další kolo Světového poháru ve slovinské Kranji!
Wow, what a week this was! I'm still processing it and trying to sort out my thoughts a bit. I feel motivated and happy and I'm in a great shape. I scored two medals - unbelievable! I need to remain modest, though, as the three cool Olympic guys (Adam Ondra, Alex Megos and Jakob Schubert) were missing in the competitions, and I think they would have a lot to say about who should sttand on a podium.
Last week two rounds of World Cup took place in France: one in Chamonix and the other one in Briancon. I took my family with me, it's important to feel relaxed and changing diapers is great relaxation, indeed. And Kačka's support is super important. I made a small mistake during the first qualification in Chamonix, I slipped right under the top. The second route is a brutal power climb and I'm among the best ones, so I pass to the semifinal from a shared 13th place. Due to the weather the semifinal takes place on the very same day as the qualification, which is a bit unusual, but I'm doing great. I make no mistakes on the route and reach the final headwall. It looks like I won't make it to the final, but the guys who were best in the qualification made some mistakes, so in the end I'm 6th and I pass to the final of a lead climbing competition for the third time in my life.
After such a dramatic semifinal my boys sleep like logs, I'm full of emotion, though, and keep reliving the semifinal route until late at night. I'm loooking forward to the final a lot. Waiting for it is looong, it's raining in Chamonix and I don't want to eat or lie too much, nor to be active too much, so that I'm 100% ready.
The final in Chamonix is extraordinary, with Mont Blanc in the background and huge audience. An amazing experience, really. I start calm and proceeed quickly, at the beginning of an overhang I'm surprised by some bad holds, so I return and this mistake costs me lots of strength. After that it's quite a struggle for each hold, the route is cruel, I barely get to the second half and I don't think I would score better than the 6th place, but it turns out that the route is really super hard, so in the end I score the unbelievable 3rd place! I'm ecstatic!
We spend the following days in Chamonix for we planned to enjoy the place but the weather ruins it, so we just have one traning session in the local gym and then we move to Briancon.
I'm loooking forward to Briancon – there is the biggest overhang of the World Cup – and I hope the qualification routes will be tough. And sure they were! The routes were super hard, none scored the top. I'm climbing smoothly and I pass to the semifinal from the 4th place. The semifinal route is more about endurance and I'm doing quite well, I get very close to the top and from the reactions of the audience I guess it's good. I pass to the final, yes!
Eventually, I pass from the 4th place again, I have a good day, really. Again, we wait for the final long time, but we like the place so we enjoy it. My boys are amazing source of energy for me. During the final the rain is followed by sunshine and vice versa, fortunately this doesn't impact the climbing conditions. The final route looks hard but in the end it's not as bad as the one in Chamonix. I enjoy the onsight climbing, thanks to my experience I manage to do the right sequences of moves, I only make one tiny mistake and climb to the final headwall. There I take a break and want to go on, but on the next round hold I realize that I should have rested more. I try to jump to the undercling and I go down. I'm happy, though. I feel it could have been better but it's almost impossible not to make mistakes in the final. My performance is among the best ones, just three climbers follow after me. Dimitry surprises us and gets ahead of me, Sean Bailey falls sooner than me, which is surprising, too. Now I know I'll be standing on the podium. Stefano Ghisolfi climbs prudently, he slips on the edge of the overhang but manages to hold on quite extraordinarily. He gets furthest and really deserves to win. Another bronze medal for me!
Thank you all for the nice messages and congratulations, it's amazing to feel such support! Now I need to keep working and training hard, for I'm going to attend Rockmaster in Italian Arco – the cradle of the sport climbing, and then another World Cup competition in Slovenian Kranj!
Last week two rounds of World Cup took place in France: one in Chamonix and the other one in Briancon. I took my family with me, it's important to feel relaxed and changing diapers is great relaxation, indeed. And Kačka's support is super important. I made a small mistake during the first qualification in Chamonix, I slipped right under the top. The second route is a brutal power climb and I'm among the best ones, so I pass to the semifinal from a shared 13th place. Due to the weather the semifinal takes place on the very same day as the qualification, which is a bit unusual, but I'm doing great. I make no mistakes on the route and reach the final headwall. It looks like I won't make it to the final, but the guys who were best in the qualification made some mistakes, so in the end I'm 6th and I pass to the final of a lead climbing competition for the third time in my life.
After such a dramatic semifinal my boys sleep like logs, I'm full of emotion, though, and keep reliving the semifinal route until late at night. I'm loooking forward to the final a lot. Waiting for it is looong, it's raining in Chamonix and I don't want to eat or lie too much, nor to be active too much, so that I'm 100% ready.
The final in Chamonix is extraordinary, with Mont Blanc in the background and huge audience. An amazing experience, really. I start calm and proceeed quickly, at the beginning of an overhang I'm surprised by some bad holds, so I return and this mistake costs me lots of strength. After that it's quite a struggle for each hold, the route is cruel, I barely get to the second half and I don't think I would score better than the 6th place, but it turns out that the route is really super hard, so in the end I score the unbelievable 3rd place! I'm ecstatic!
We spend the following days in Chamonix for we planned to enjoy the place but the weather ruins it, so we just have one traning session in the local gym and then we move to Briancon.
I'm loooking forward to Briancon – there is the biggest overhang of the World Cup – and I hope the qualification routes will be tough. And sure they were! The routes were super hard, none scored the top. I'm climbing smoothly and I pass to the semifinal from the 4th place. The semifinal route is more about endurance and I'm doing quite well, I get very close to the top and from the reactions of the audience I guess it's good. I pass to the final, yes!
Eventually, I pass from the 4th place again, I have a good day, really. Again, we wait for the final long time, but we like the place so we enjoy it. My boys are amazing source of energy for me. During the final the rain is followed by sunshine and vice versa, fortunately this doesn't impact the climbing conditions. The final route looks hard but in the end it's not as bad as the one in Chamonix. I enjoy the onsight climbing, thanks to my experience I manage to do the right sequences of moves, I only make one tiny mistake and climb to the final headwall. There I take a break and want to go on, but on the next round hold I realize that I should have rested more. I try to jump to the undercling and I go down. I'm happy, though. I feel it could have been better but it's almost impossible not to make mistakes in the final. My performance is among the best ones, just three climbers follow after me. Dimitry surprises us and gets ahead of me, Sean Bailey falls sooner than me, which is surprising, too. Now I know I'll be standing on the podium. Stefano Ghisolfi climbs prudently, he slips on the edge of the overhang but manages to hold on quite extraordinarily. He gets furthest and really deserves to win. Another bronze medal for me!
Thank you all for the nice messages and congratulations, it's amazing to feel such support! Now I need to keep working and training hard, for I'm going to attend Rockmaster in Italian Arco – the cradle of the sport climbing, and then another World Cup competition in Slovenian Kranj!
