Odjezd z Fionnay nám trochu zkomplikuje autobaterie, ale po chvíli už sjíždíme do údolí a hurá do Francie a restit v kempu Chamonix. Nejprve je na programu opět rychlost, která pro mě dopadá na chlup stejně jako ve Villars, snad se obdobně bude dařit i v obtížnosti, říkám si. Projdeme si nádhern0 město, mraky lidí, místy odkaz na 1. zimní olympiádu, a to vše pod Mont Blancem.
Chamonix
Kvalifikace vypadají o něco více vytrvalostní než ve Villars, mám trochu štěstí, že začínám na levé cestě, a za dopoledního chladna se mi daří dolézt poměrně vysoko. Obsazuji hodně slušné 7. místo v cestě. Druhá cesta je o něco lehčí a i přes značné vedro se dostávám až do závěrečného výlezu a těsně pod topem padám – 12.místo v cestě. Kvalifikace šla snadno, až moc snadno, a postupuji ze 7. místa do semifinále.
Kvalifikace by Sytse van Slooten
Oproti Villars se tentokrát po kvalifikacích cítím poměrně unavený, hlavně pravá ruka dostala zabrat, takže ledová lázeň a místní bylinky.
Protein drink
Do semifinále jdu opět s chutí, nechybuji, přejdu přes silovou pasáž a dolézám si pro 35+, myslím si, že je to průměrný výsledek, ale v prozatimní tabulce jsem na 4. místě. Leze ještě 6 lezců, Stefano Ghisolfi nepochopitelně padá na začátku. Ještě jeden člověk musí spadnout pode mnou, kandidátem je Romain Desgranges a tip vychází: Desgranges nepřechází přes silovou pasáž uprostřed cesty. Neskutečné, jsem ve finále světového poháru!
Semifinále by Sytse van Slooten
Finále je na programu až pozdě večer, tak jedeme restovat k vodě, zaledovat ruce, dát trochu rýže a unavit Gulika, ale unaveni jsme spíše my než on. Finále byl velký zážitek, v izolaci jen pár lidí, panuje pohoda a dobrá nálada, Schubert konstatuje: "You are the only climber in the final who is not professional." Po ženách jdeme na věc my, před stěnou je 12 tisíc diváků, úžasná atmosféra. Leze se mi dobře, únava je už znát, ale nechávám tam všechno. V malých lištách poměrně rychle dochází, ještě stihnu udělat pasáž, kde se leze nohama napřed, pak už mám napumpováno a padám. Jsem spokojený, neudělal jsem větší chybu a končím na úžasném 6. místě!!
Finále by Sytse van Slooten
Finále (čas 1:31:30)
Sám ani nevím, čím to, že se dva svěťáky povedly tak moc dobře, 9. a 6. místo, to je z říše snů. Velkou výhodou obtížnosti je to, že tu nejsou žádné technické finesy jako v bouldrech a že je to hlavně o síle - vytrvalosti a silově se letos cítím perfektně – zdá se, že nastolený trénink byl vhodný právě na tyto bouldrově-vytrvalostní cesty. Teď ještě trochu víc potrénovat a vzhůru na MS do Tokya!
Moje štístka
On our departure from Fionnay we had some difficulties with the car battery but soon we drive down the valley and hurry to the French twon of Chamonix for the competition in climbing for speed. I have a very similar results as in Villars and I hope to have the similar results in climbing for difficulty, too. In the meantime we take a walk in the beautiful and crowded town under Mont Blanc.
The qualification is more focused on endurance than in Villars, I'm very lucky to start with the route on the left and in the morning chilly weather, so I get quite far and earn a good 7th place in this route. The second one is a bit easier and despite the heat I almost get to the top - and I'm 12th. So the qualification goes smoothly and I pass to the semifinal from the 7th place.
Unlike in Villars I feel quite tired after the qualification, my right arm in particular got its share of pain, so it's time to treat it with cold water and some local herbs.
I start the semifinal full of enthusiasm and without any mistakes. I overcome the power passage and reach the score of 35+. I think this would be an average result but in the temporary table I find myself on the 4th place. Six other people are climbing, Stefano Ghisolfi unexpectedly falls at the very beginning, weird... I need one more climber to do worse than me to pass to the final and it comes true, eventually. Romain Desgranges doesn't get through the power passage. Unbelievable, I'm in the final of the World Cup!
The final is scheduled for the late evening so we take a rest, I put more ice on my arms and after a bit of rice for dinner we try to get Gulik tired. In the end we are the only ones who are tired, though... The final was an amazing experience, there were only few people in the isolation and the atmosphere was relaxed and cheerful. Schubert told me: "You are the only climber in the final who is not professional". After the women's final it was our turn, there were 12 thousand people watching us and the atmosphere was incredible. I was doing quite well, I felt a bit tired already but I gave it all I had. The tiny ledges were hard, I manage to get through the passage where I had to climb feet first but then I got swollen and fell. I'm very happy, I didn't make any serious mistake and I earned a wonderful 6th place!!
I don't really know why I was so succcessful, the 9th and 6th place is a dream. Climbing for difficulty has one big advantage over bouldering – there aren't such technical finesses and it's more about power and endurance - and as for strength I feel awesome this year, it seems that the training I had was the right thing for these bouldering-enudrance routes. Now I'll have some more training and let's go to the World Championship in Tokyo!
The qualification is more focused on endurance than in Villars, I'm very lucky to start with the route on the left and in the morning chilly weather, so I get quite far and earn a good 7th place in this route. The second one is a bit easier and despite the heat I almost get to the top - and I'm 12th. So the qualification goes smoothly and I pass to the semifinal from the 7th place.
Unlike in Villars I feel quite tired after the qualification, my right arm in particular got its share of pain, so it's time to treat it with cold water and some local herbs.
I start the semifinal full of enthusiasm and without any mistakes. I overcome the power passage and reach the score of 35+. I think this would be an average result but in the temporary table I find myself on the 4th place. Six other people are climbing, Stefano Ghisolfi unexpectedly falls at the very beginning, weird... I need one more climber to do worse than me to pass to the final and it comes true, eventually. Romain Desgranges doesn't get through the power passage. Unbelievable, I'm in the final of the World Cup!
The final is scheduled for the late evening so we take a rest, I put more ice on my arms and after a bit of rice for dinner we try to get Gulik tired. In the end we are the only ones who are tired, though... The final was an amazing experience, there were only few people in the isolation and the atmosphere was relaxed and cheerful. Schubert told me: "You are the only climber in the final who is not professional". After the women's final it was our turn, there were 12 thousand people watching us and the atmosphere was incredible. I was doing quite well, I felt a bit tired already but I gave it all I had. The tiny ledges were hard, I manage to get through the passage where I had to climb feet first but then I got swollen and fell. I'm very happy, I didn't make any serious mistake and I earned a wonderful 6th place!!
I don't really know why I was so succcessful, the 9th and 6th place is a dream. Climbing for difficulty has one big advantage over bouldering – there aren't such technical finesses and it's more about power and endurance - and as for strength I feel awesome this year, it seems that the training I had was the right thing for these bouldering-enudrance routes. Now I'll have some more training and let's go to the World Championship in Tokyo!
