V lednu jsem na tréninku v Brně špatně dopadl mezi matice. Doufal jsem, že bolest přejde, ale po 14 dnech mi doktor dává nohu do sádry s tím, že je zlomená kost v nártu. To mě odsune na 23 dní na lištu, takže trénink á la Karešák – snad to k něčemu bylo. Alespoň že mi čas krátí nový přírůstek do rodiny.
Guliver
Noha by ještě měla být v klidu, ale už to doma nevydržím a nechávám se uschopnit. Venku je krásně, tak razíme do skal. Otázka kam, ale v Krasu jsou rozpracovány projekty, takže tam. Bohužel ve Sloupu stále řeka, takže přejíždím na Holštejn. Skála je nádherně suchá, a tak toho musím využít a pověsím se do Muskulatika 8A+, kde jsem v létě za vlhka neudělal vůbec nic.
Muskulatik
Pomalu se dostávám do ráže a přicházím na to, oč tu jde. Na úvod lišty na spoďák, námrd, poladit nohy a daleko do díry, ještě dolez, kde dochází, ale už se nesmí spadnout. Po hodince mám kroknuto, tak pokusuji. Mám sérii, kdy dalším pokusem padám níž a níž, pak se to zase lepší, až to vyjde. Asi klidně 8B, Adam to vylezl ve fazónce, kdy vyběhl vedlejší silový úlet, Vrtuli 8C/C+. Jsem rád, že noha drží a moc nebolí, ale otázka je, jak se bude tvářit o víkendu na závodní kolmice.
Muskulatik
Muskulatik
Muskulatik
In January I went to a training session in Brno and fell between mats. I was hoping the pain would disappear soon but 14 days later the doctor found out that I broke my instep bone and put it in a plaster. For 23 days I'm out of the game. At least I can enjoy the company of our new family member.
I shouldn't strain the foot yet, but I can't bear being home so I end my sick leave and go to the rocks. The question is - which rocks? I have some unfinished business in Kras and as Sloup is under water I choose Holštejn. The rock is dry so I have to seize the opportunity and try Muskulatik 8A+ as I was hopeless when it was moist.
Slowly I get to it and figure it out - first there are ledges to an undercling, far reach to the hole and a hard finish. After an hour I have the moves and start trying. There is a series of attempts ending with a fall (and I'm doing worse and worse with each attempt) but then it gets better and finally I've got it! I guess it could be an 8B, Adam climbed it when he was really in shape. I'm happy that the foot is ok and doesn't hurt much but we'll se how the competition at weekend changes that.
I shouldn't strain the foot yet, but I can't bear being home so I end my sick leave and go to the rocks. The question is - which rocks? I have some unfinished business in Kras and as Sloup is under water I choose Holštejn. The rock is dry so I have to seize the opportunity and try Muskulatik 8A+ as I was hopeless when it was moist.
Slowly I get to it and figure it out - first there are ledges to an undercling, far reach to the hole and a hard finish. After an hour I have the moves and start trying. There is a series of attempts ending with a fall (and I'm doing worse and worse with each attempt) but then it gets better and finally I've got it! I guess it could be an 8B, Adam climbed it when he was really in shape. I'm happy that the foot is ok and doesn't hurt much but we'll se how the competition at weekend changes that.
