Světový pohár v Mnichově je každoročně oslavou závodního boulderingu, letos byl navíc doplněn o Mistrovství Evropy, což byl důvod, který přitáhl do německé metropole rekordní počet účastníků - 166 chlapů a 114 žen. Za ČR jsme dorazili ve složení já, Štěpán, Jan Chvála, Kuba Jedlička, Verča Šimková, Petra Růžičková a Danča Kotrbová.
Mužská část repre + Rishat Khaibulin (KAZ) by Kačka
Vlivem velkého počtu závodníků se nám ráno zavírá izolace už v 6:30, vstávačka jako do práce. Já jdu na řadu jako čtrnáctý, takže hned na rozlezovku a jdu na to. V technickém kolmáči se mi daří proskočit k zóně na jedenáctý pokus, ale závěrečný průtlak mi dává stopku.
Kvalifikační jednička by Kačka
Druhý boulder, ten je pro mě, silovina v převisu, levá pravá, žebřík. Prvním pokusem mě sundá rozhodčí za špatný start, nechápu, nastoupil jsem správně. Ve druhém pokusu se raději na startu ujišťuji, že jsem ve správné pozici, a valím k Topu.
Dvojka by Kačka
Trojka je lištovačka a tlačení nohama do vyklopených struktur, několikrát dolézám do zóny, ale vždy je něco špatně a dál to nejde.
Trojka by Kačka
Ve čtyřce nástup za řezky a správně zatlačit nohama do struktur, pak náskok křížem a těžké udržení Topu. Šestým pokusem vše klapne a slavím druhý Top.
Čtverka by Kačka
Závěrečný kousek, skok do zóny a pak průtlak do Topu. Druhým pokusem skáču, ale do Topu se mi nedaří dostat, v hlavě mám dané, že se tam musí skočit, zkusit to průtlakem mě nenapadne, a tak jen Topovém chytu vždy zamávám, když letím okolo.
Pětka by Kačka
Výsledek 2T8P a 5B20P mně vynáší 33. místo na Světovém poháru a postupové 19. místo na Mistrovství Evropy. Ostatní reprezentanti lezou až v poledne, již je velké vedro, ale kluci se perou statečně. Nejlépe zaleze Štěpán a v rámci Světového pohár končí na 80. místě (ME 59), Honza Chvála na 96. místě (ME 63), Kuba Jedlička na 131. místě (ME 81). Večerní kvalifikace žen začíná ve velkém vedru, pak přichází bouřka a poslední závodnice končí své pokusy před první hodinou ranní. Z žen zaleze nejlépe Verča Šimková a končí na 75. místě (ME 45), Petra Růžičková a Danča Kotrbová shodně na 93. místě (ME 69).
V semifinále odleze nejprve 20 závodníků SP a pak nastupují další bojovníci v rámci ME, včetně mě. Kvalifikace mi ubrala hodně sil, ale snažím se bojovat a vylepšit si postavení ve výsledkové listině. V prvním boulderu se mi před koncem časového limitu daří doskočit do zóny, následuje průtlak a stopka pro mě.
Jednička ba Kačka
Dvojka začíná dlouhým poletem do kráteru a pak silové lezení až do konce, moje chvíle, šestým pokusem topuji.
Dvojka by Sytse van Slooten
Kolmá trojka je pro mě čiré peklo a hned na úvod mě zastavuje těžké zvednutí nohy - no points.
Trojka by Kačka
Poslední boulder je hodně o síle, zajímavý nástup nohama nad hlavou, pak struktury a silový přískok pod Topem, který ani na čtyřikrát nedám, síly už nejsou.
Čtyrka by Kačka
S výsledkem 1T6P 3Z13P se ve výsledkové listině ME posunuji na solidní 15.místo.
Záznam ze semifinále
Kolotoč velkých světových závodů se v Mnichově dotočil. Závodní bouldering se letos hodně změnil, bouldery vyžadují všestrannost a spíše než maximální síla je potřeba lezení ve stylu parkour a gymnastické dovednosti. Konkurence neustále roste, dominují Japonci a stará škola Evropy ztrácí, je třeba se učit a jít s dobou. Jde to, Jan Hojer ukázal, že to jde, ale vyžaduje to velké úsilí a mít lezení jako full time job. Uvidíme jaká bude sezóna 2018, těším se, závody mě baví a je nesmírně motivující vidět nejlepší lezce doby a co jsou schopni na stěně předvádět. Pro mě závodní sezóna ještě nekončí, příští týden se potkáme v Teplicích nad Metují a v půlce září jedu na Adidas Rockstars do německého Stuttgartu.
Out of energy after World cup round
Every year the World Cup in Munchen is a huge event for the bouldering competitors. This year it took place together with the European Championship, so the number of participants was the biggest in history so far - 166 men and 114 women. The Czech Republic was represented by me, Štěpán, Jan Chvála, Kuba Jedlička, Verča Šimková, Petra Růžičková and Danča Kotrbová.
Because of the large number of competitors the isolation is closed at 6:30 a.m., I am the 14th so I just do a short warm up and then it's my turn.
In the technical vertical I reach the zone at the eleventh attempt but the final part is too hard for me.
The second boulder is something for me - a power climb in an overhang. My first attempt is stopped by the judge because of a wrong start - I don't get why, I'm sure I started correctly. So at my second attempt I double check and make sure I am in a correct position and then I hurry to the top.
Number three has ledges and one needs to push legs into the slanted structures, I get to the zone few times but each time something goes wrong and I can't get any further.
The fourth boulder is about pushing the legs to the structures properly, then there is a cross jump and you've got to grab the top and hold it tight, which is quite difficult. I finish at the sixth attempt, though.
With the last boulder I jump to the zone and then I try jumping to the top as well. It doesn't really come to my mind that manteling may be better, so I can but say goodbye to the top each time I fly around it.
My score (2T8P and 5B20P) helps me to the 33th place at the World Cup and 19th place at the European Championship. The other competitors climb in the afternoon and fight bravely, despite the heat. Štěpán is the best, ending up 80th at the World Cup (59th at the ECH), Honza Chvála is 96th (63th at the ECH), Kuba Jedlička 131st (81th at the ECH). The evening women's qualification starts at the hot weather, but later a storm comes and the last climber ends her attempts shortly before 1 a.m. Verča Šimková is the best among the Czech female climbers, ending 75th (45th at the ECH), Petra Růžičková and Danča Kotrbová are both 93rd (69 at the ECH).
During the semifinal the 20 World Cup climbers go first and are followed by the other climbers, who take part in the European Championship (including me). The qualification cost me lots of energy but I do my best to improve my overall result.
At the first boulder I manage to jump to the zone before time runs out, but then I am stopped by a mantel.
Number two starts with a long move into a big hole and then it is all about power climbing till the very end. This is my moment! I reach the top at the sixth attempt.
The third boulder, a vertical, is a pure hell for me and I am stopped at the very beginning by a hard leg lift -
no points for me here.
The last boulder requires lots of strength, the beginning is very interesting as the legs are placed above the head for a while, then there are some structures and a power jump under the top, which I can't get through despite trying it four times - I just have no energy left.
With the score 1T6P 3Z13P I move to a nice 15th place at the European Championship's result list.
The wheel of the big world competitions stopped spinning here in Munchen. The bouldering competitions have changed a lot this year, the boulders suddenly require more versatility and one needs to climb in kind of a parkour style, using more gymnastics skills than stregth. The competition grows, the Japanese dominate and the old school Europeans are slowly losing pace. We need to keep learning and follow the trends - and it can be done. Jan Hojer showed us it sure can, but it takes a lot of effort and one must have climbing as a full time job. Let's see what the 2018 season will be like, I'm looking forward to it a lot - I enjoy the competitions and it is a huge motivation to see the best climbers of the world and what they can do on the boulders. For me the competition season is not over yet, the next week we'll meet in Teplice nad Metují and in the middle of September I will go to the German Stuttgart to the Adidas Rockstars.
Because of the large number of competitors the isolation is closed at 6:30 a.m., I am the 14th so I just do a short warm up and then it's my turn.
In the technical vertical I reach the zone at the eleventh attempt but the final part is too hard for me.
The second boulder is something for me - a power climb in an overhang. My first attempt is stopped by the judge because of a wrong start - I don't get why, I'm sure I started correctly. So at my second attempt I double check and make sure I am in a correct position and then I hurry to the top.
Number three has ledges and one needs to push legs into the slanted structures, I get to the zone few times but each time something goes wrong and I can't get any further.
The fourth boulder is about pushing the legs to the structures properly, then there is a cross jump and you've got to grab the top and hold it tight, which is quite difficult. I finish at the sixth attempt, though.
With the last boulder I jump to the zone and then I try jumping to the top as well. It doesn't really come to my mind that manteling may be better, so I can but say goodbye to the top each time I fly around it.
My score (2T8P and 5B20P) helps me to the 33th place at the World Cup and 19th place at the European Championship. The other competitors climb in the afternoon and fight bravely, despite the heat. Štěpán is the best, ending up 80th at the World Cup (59th at the ECH), Honza Chvála is 96th (63th at the ECH), Kuba Jedlička 131st (81th at the ECH). The evening women's qualification starts at the hot weather, but later a storm comes and the last climber ends her attempts shortly before 1 a.m. Verča Šimková is the best among the Czech female climbers, ending 75th (45th at the ECH), Petra Růžičková and Danča Kotrbová are both 93rd (69 at the ECH).
During the semifinal the 20 World Cup climbers go first and are followed by the other climbers, who take part in the European Championship (including me). The qualification cost me lots of energy but I do my best to improve my overall result.
At the first boulder I manage to jump to the zone before time runs out, but then I am stopped by a mantel.
Number two starts with a long move into a big hole and then it is all about power climbing till the very end. This is my moment! I reach the top at the sixth attempt.
The third boulder, a vertical, is a pure hell for me and I am stopped at the very beginning by a hard leg lift -
no points for me here.
The last boulder requires lots of strength, the beginning is very interesting as the legs are placed above the head for a while, then there are some structures and a power jump under the top, which I can't get through despite trying it four times - I just have no energy left.
With the score 1T6P 3Z13P I move to a nice 15th place at the European Championship's result list.
The wheel of the big world competitions stopped spinning here in Munchen. The bouldering competitions have changed a lot this year, the boulders suddenly require more versatility and one needs to climb in kind of a parkour style, using more gymnastics skills than stregth. The competition grows, the Japanese dominate and the old school Europeans are slowly losing pace. We need to keep learning and follow the trends - and it can be done. Jan Hojer showed us it sure can, but it takes a lot of effort and one must have climbing as a full time job. Let's see what the 2018 season will be like, I'm looking forward to it a lot - I enjoy the competitions and it is a huge motivation to see the best climbers of the world and what they can do on the boulders. For me the competition season is not over yet, the next week we'll meet in Teplice nad Metují and in the middle of September I will go to the German Stuttgart to the Adidas Rockstars.
