Čtvrtek je ve znamení desetiboje v Brně a bylo to velký, zatím nejlepší desetiboj ever. Výborná atmosféra byla vyšperkovaná výkony závodníků - padlo hned několik rekordů, finále jsem si užil a myslím, že i všichni ostatní, co na VUT byli.
10 boy VUT Brno
Samotný závod by se pro mě dal rozdělit na dvě poloviny: prvních sedm disciplín mám výborných a téměř v každé si tvořím osobní rekord a vedu s velkým náskokem. V posledních třech vytrvalostních disciplínách uvadám, ruce se otevírají a nejsem schopen dosáhnout ani svého průměru, pořád po Antarktidě nevydržím být v zápřahu delší dobu. A tak mě nakonec Adam Ondra předběhne o pár bodíků s počtem 10 036 bodů. Já končím v osobním rekordu v těsném závěsu s 9 978b a kousek za námi Kuba Konečný a Štěpán. Velmi dobře se prezentoval Rishat Khaibullin, a to zvláště v prvních čtyřech disciplínách, kde vypadal, že nás všechny převálcuje. Vlastně všichni finalisté podali velmi kvalitní výkon, nikdo nebyl do počtu.
10 boy VUT Brno - Rychlost
10 boy VUT Brno - Malé lišty na vytrvalost
10 boy VUT Brno - Panelák
V pátek rest a v sobotu brzy ráno razíme se Štěpánem na bouldery do okolí Vídně. Začínáme na Alice in Muskelland 8B+. Po rozlezu zkoušíme crux - přísný krok za malinký dvouprstový spoďák. Kroky se po hodince podaří, a tak zkusím pár ostrých pokusů, ale už se celkem otepluje a doskokové madlo je zateklé, a tak takticky utíkáme dál na Hirschwande.
Alice in Muskelland 8B+
Tam čeká hlavní cíl Gusseisener Dackel 8B a low za 8B+, boulder, do kterého jsem kdysi při návštěvě nalezl a nezkrokoval. Tentokrát se daří díky videu od Thomase Fichtingera tuhle lištovotechnickou záležitost zkrokovat, dávám ostré pokusy a bojuji s pravým zaháčkováním špičky, trochu pozměním program a posílám!
Gusseisener Dackel 8B
Dál se přesunujeme na další 8B Finales Funkeln. Štěpán krokuje a ladí mi Flashový pokus, dolézám daleko, ale dnes jsem už poměrně vyndanej a dochází mi power. Párkrát ještě padám v závěru a nakonec se podaří přidat do deníku i tuhle silovku, rozhodně easy 8B spíš 8A+/B nebo i jen 8A+? nevím, ruce už mám jalové.
Finales Funkeln 8A+/B
Večer přejíždíme do Spitzu a nedělní dopoledne trávíme v lomu na břehu Dunaje. Ráno se cítím jako hadrový panáček, prsty z ostrého vápence bolavé, a tak jsem ubrečený, se Štěpánem nalezu do dvou 8A, ale moc tomu nedávám a snažím se ušetřit zbytek sil na linku Nairobi 8A+, lištovačku s famózním náskokem do jedné ruky, kterou celý výlet zakončím.
Nairobi 8A+
The decathlon that took place in Brno on Thursday was huge, so far the best one ever. The atmosphere was great and the competitors' performance stunning - several records have been broken. I enjoyed the final and so did everyone who came to the Brno University of Technology.
As for myself, the competition could be divided into two parts: in the first seven disciplines I'm doing great - I break my personal record in almost each of these and I have a huge lead over the others. During the last three endurance disciplines I loose my drive, though, my palms open and I'm not even able to keep up to my average score. After coming back from Antarctica I still don't function properly over a longer period of time. Therefore, in the end, Adam Ondra defeats me with 10 036 points. I'm second, my 9 978 points are my personal record, and the two of us are followed by Kuba Konečný and Štěpán. Rishat Khaibullin's performance was impressive, too, especially in the first four disciplines it looked like he was going to smash us all. Actually, all the finalists were doing great, nobody was in the final just to be present.
On Friday I had my rest day and early in the Saturday morning I make a trip to the boulders near Wien with Štěpán. We begin with Alice in Muskelland 8B+. After the warm up we try the crux - a tricky move behind a tiny two-finger undercling. After an hour we finish trying the moves so I make several serious attempts but it's getting warmer and the last bucket gets soaked so we run away to Hirschwande.
Our main goal, Gusseisener Dackel 8B and its low 8B+version is waiting for us there. I have tried this boulder some time ago but I couldn't do the moves then. This time, thanks to the video by Thomas Fichtinger I manage to do the moves of this ledgy-technical boulder, I try to climb it several times, struggling with the right toe, and after slight changes in the programme I finally send it!
Our next stop is another 8B: Finales Funkeln. Štěpán does the moves and helps me with an attempt for a flash climb, I get quite far but I lack the energy already. I fall from the very end few times but I can finally add this power boulder to my list. It's definitely an easy 8B, 8A+/B or maybe just an 8A+? I don't really know as my arms are already pretty numb.
In the evening we move to Spitz and spend the Sunday afternoon in the quarry on the boards of the Danube river. In the morning I feel like a rag doll, fingers hurting from climbing on a sharp limestone. Together with Štěpán I start two 8As but I'm no good, so I try to save some energy for Nairobi 8A+, a ledgy boulder with an awesome one-hand jump, whose climb is a nice ending of our trip.
As for myself, the competition could be divided into two parts: in the first seven disciplines I'm doing great - I break my personal record in almost each of these and I have a huge lead over the others. During the last three endurance disciplines I loose my drive, though, my palms open and I'm not even able to keep up to my average score. After coming back from Antarctica I still don't function properly over a longer period of time. Therefore, in the end, Adam Ondra defeats me with 10 036 points. I'm second, my 9 978 points are my personal record, and the two of us are followed by Kuba Konečný and Štěpán. Rishat Khaibullin's performance was impressive, too, especially in the first four disciplines it looked like he was going to smash us all. Actually, all the finalists were doing great, nobody was in the final just to be present.
On Friday I had my rest day and early in the Saturday morning I make a trip to the boulders near Wien with Štěpán. We begin with Alice in Muskelland 8B+. After the warm up we try the crux - a tricky move behind a tiny two-finger undercling. After an hour we finish trying the moves so I make several serious attempts but it's getting warmer and the last bucket gets soaked so we run away to Hirschwande.
Our main goal, Gusseisener Dackel 8B and its low 8B+version is waiting for us there. I have tried this boulder some time ago but I couldn't do the moves then. This time, thanks to the video by Thomas Fichtinger I manage to do the moves of this ledgy-technical boulder, I try to climb it several times, struggling with the right toe, and after slight changes in the programme I finally send it!
Our next stop is another 8B: Finales Funkeln. Štěpán does the moves and helps me with an attempt for a flash climb, I get quite far but I lack the energy already. I fall from the very end few times but I can finally add this power boulder to my list. It's definitely an easy 8B, 8A+/B or maybe just an 8A+? I don't really know as my arms are already pretty numb.
In the evening we move to Spitz and spend the Sunday afternoon in the quarry on the boards of the Danube river. In the morning I feel like a rag doll, fingers hurting from climbing on a sharp limestone. Together with Štěpán I start two 8As but I'm no good, so I try to save some energy for Nairobi 8A+, a ledgy boulder with an awesome one-hand jump, whose climb is a nice ending of our trip.
