Včera dvoufázový trénink, náročná oslava a dneska v plánu také trénink, ale venku nádherně a tak srdce volá po skalách. Volíme Bor a je tu nádherně, sníh už vzal za své, na lezení chladno a na sluníčku teplo, skály až na výjimky suchý. Začínáme na Bobulích 6A, které Kačka po chvíli pěkně vyleze.
Bobule 6A
Pokračujeme na můj projekt u Doktora House, který mně už dvakrát odolal. Jedná se o přidání dvou kroků do Dr. Dolittla za 7C, a vlastně momentálně o čistý SD start, jelikož Dr. Dolittle se již ze sedu lézt nedá, ale z polostoje. Pár pokusů a vysílám ostré pokusy, v klíčovém kroku malinko posunuju patu a najednou krok dávám častěji, párkrát sletím ještě z technického výlezu, ale po půl hodince slavím přelez, klasa 8A?.
Dr. Dolittle 8A
Dr. Dolittle 8A
Pokračujeme k Monstru, kde mám rozlezené prodloužení Babuina a to z levé hrany. Daří se mi ulomit klíčovou mini přídrž a tak je cruxový krok ještě o malinko více silový. Úvodní kroky po chvíli neřeším a padám v silové rozpažce až ji jednou udžim a dolezu navrchol. Velký Babuin 8A, a klasickej Babuin teď asi spíše 7C+.
Velký Babuin 8A
Kačka si ještě rozleze další 6A, chvíli si vychutnáváme sluníčka a jedeme dom.
Yesterday a two-phase training, a demanding celebration and for today I had planned for another training but the weather outside is beautiful, the snow is gone, too cold for climbing and warm in the sun, rocks dry except a few places. We start at Bobule 6A, which Kačka climbs after a while.
We continue to my project at Doktor House, which has defeated me twice already. It's adding two steps to Dr. Dolittle 7C, and actually currently a clean SD start because Dr. Dolittle cannot be climbed from sit start but from half-stand start. A few attempts and I have some official attemps, I move my heel a bit in teh key step and suddenly I make the step more often, a few times a fall off the technical climb but after half an hour I celebrate victory, the class maybe 8A?
We continue to Monstrum, where I am working on prolongation of Babuin from the left. I chip off the key mini hold, so the crux step is a bit more power one. In a while I do not worry about the initial steps as I fall only in the pwoer arms-spread. Once I manage to uphold it, I will make it to the top. Velký Babuin 8A and classical Babuin now probably 7C+.
Yesterday a two-phase training, a demanding celebration and for today I had planned for another training but the weather outside is beautiful, the snow is gone, too cold for climbing and warm in the sun, rocks dry except a few places. We start at Bobule 6A, which Kačka climbs after a while.
We continue to my project at Doktor House, which has defeated me twice already. It's adding two steps to Dr. Dolittle 7C, and actually currently a clean SD start because Dr. Dolittle cannot be climbed from sit start but from half-stand start. A few attempts and I have some official attemps, I move my heel a bit in teh key step and suddenly I make the step more often, a few times a fall off the technical climb but after half an hour I celebrate victory, the class maybe 8A?
We continue to Monstrum, where I am working on prolongation of Babuin from the left. I chip off the key mini hold, so the crux step is a bit more power one. In a while I do not worry about the initial steps as I fall only in the pwoer arms-spread. Once I manage to uphold it, I will make it to the top. Velký Babuin 8A and classical Babuin now probably 7C+.
