Ogr
Po očištění výlezu se pouštíme do Zbereziny za 7B+, chvilku trvá než se rozehřejem a pak to pošleme. Dál ladíme nález zleva Carnajs - Zberezina Combo 8A. Těžký první tři kroky a pak spíš vytrvalostní lezení (Konrad Saladra - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkeQ9Op6Awc). Vymýšlíme o něco snažší program než je ten Konrádův a jak uděláme začátek ten už nepadáme. Dosti sjízdné 8A, ale 8A snad pořád jo. Vylézám tak moje 8A s číslem 100!
Carnajs-Zberezina Combo 8A
Dál ještě lezeme začátek a přímo na horu, což je boulder Carnajs za tvrdších 7C, dříve C+. Dál jdeme o pár metrů níž a čistíme projekt, který se později ukázal jako supur mega lajna. Takovou radost z projektu jsem dlouho neměl. Bohužel zima a projekt vítězí, ale my se vrátíme. Klasa tak 8A+?
Projekt 8A+?
We started with Zberezina (7B+) as soon as it was cleansed. It took us a while to warm up but we sent it after that. Then we were tuning up the left variant Carnajs - Zberezina Combo (8A). The features were difficult first three steps and some endurance climbing (See Konrad Saladra). We tried to create a bit easier programme than the Konrad's and we succeeded as soon as we figured out the start. A quite passable 8A but 8A nevertheless. That means that I did my 8A number 100!
Then we proceeded with the beginning and a direct way to the top (Carnajs with a harder 7C, formerly 7C+). Then we moved a few meters down and cleaned the project which subsequently turned out to be a super great line. I hadn't been so delighted from a boulder for a long time. Unfortunately, the winter and project itself won over us, but we'll come back. The class: About 8A+?
Winter Fun Vol. 4: Kamenná hora & my 8A No. 100
After three days of rest in the mountains, Štěpán and I went to Kamennia Góra on Sunday. It was snowing when we arrived and there was a lot of snow in the forest too but we hoped that it would be possible to climb up the rock "Ogr".We started with Zberezina (7B+) as soon as it was cleansed. It took us a while to warm up but we sent it after that. Then we were tuning up the left variant Carnajs - Zberezina Combo (8A). The features were difficult first three steps and some endurance climbing (See Konrad Saladra). We tried to create a bit easier programme than the Konrad's and we succeeded as soon as we figured out the start. A quite passable 8A but 8A nevertheless. That means that I did my 8A number 100!
Then we proceeded with the beginning and a direct way to the top (Carnajs with a harder 7C, formerly 7C+). Then we moved a few meters down and cleaned the project which subsequently turned out to be a super great line. I hadn't been so delighted from a boulder for a long time. Unfortunately, the winter and project itself won over us, but we'll come back. The class: About 8A+?
4 komentáře:
Super, tak tam se určitě nekdy kouknu! Jinak gratuluju ke stému 8A... bylo by zajímavé udělat statistiku, koliks jich který rok vylezl:)
make a movie for 8a+ project.
I would like to know beta for this nice boulder.
Kamienna Gora has still got potential for...
Lukasz
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