Mega Převis A
Místy je skála dost protečená, naštěstí projekt NES 1 je téměř suchý až na závěrečnou část NES 3. Opakuju si kroky jednotlivých částí a dávám pokusy. Nejprve dvakrát spadnu v úvodním 7C, pak dvakrát v posledním kroku a pátým pokusem přelézám. Jedná se tedy o spojení 7C a 7B+/C, přičemž obtíže gradují. Klasa 8A?
Dále pokračuji směr Sušice, potkávám se se zaměstnanci High Pointu apod.
www.highpoint.cz
Odpoledne se přesunuji do obce Komárov blízko Mrtnickí skály. Do navigace jsem si nastavil nejkratší cestu, což představovalo také dvakrát absolování polní cesty. Večer chci zajít do místní knajpy, ale skrze dým nevidím ani na výčep, tak kupuji lahváče a čtu dárek od ježíška.
Večírek
Ráno hned razím na Mrtnickou skálu. Moc se ani nerozlízám a už drtím jasnou linii o které se domnívám, že je to boulder Bez Dechu. Následně zjišťuji, že Bez Dechu vede o několik cm napravo a tak sem vlastně udělal variantu boulderu S Povzdechem s klasou obdobnou tak 7C.
Po hodině a půl přidám i variantu z lehu (v domnění že lezu boulder Bez Dechu) s klasou okolo 8A+. Bohužel baterka na foťáku už nemá síly, tak video už mi nevyšlo. Pokračuju do Prahy, kde podstupuji s ostatními potenciálními reprezentanty sportovní prohlídku a jedu dom.
The rock was quite wet in some places. Project NES 1 was almost dry, though (with the exception of the final part NES 3). I was repeating the moves from individual parts and trying to do some attempts. At first I fell twice in the opening 7C and twice from the final move. I sent it at the 5th attempt. So it was a combination of 7c and 7B+/C, with gradually increasing difficulty. Class: About 8A+?
Then I went towards Sušice to meet the employees of High Point.
In the afternoon, I moved to the town Komárov located near to Mrtnická skála. I set "the shortest route" into my GPS which included two crossings of cart tracks. I wanted to visit a local pub in the evening but I couldn't see the bar due to the tobacco fume so I ended up buying a bottled beer and reading my Christmas present.
In the morning, I went to Mrtnická skála right away. Without much warming up, I immediately went for a clear line about which I believed it was the boulder Bez dechu. Then I realised that Bez dechu was a few centimeters away so I actually created a new variant (S povzdechem), with a similar class (7C).
After an hour and a half of climbing I also did a variant from the laying position, with a class aroud 8A+. My camera unfortunately died prematurely so there is no video from the action. Then I went on to Prague where I passed a check-up along with other sports representatitves. Then I went home.
New Sponsor: High Point; Židárna and Mrtnická skála
I had a meeting appointed with the representatives of High Point in Sušice on Thursday evening. The original plan was out of the question due to the thawing. That's why I visited Židárna on the way instead.The rock was quite wet in some places. Project NES 1 was almost dry, though (with the exception of the final part NES 3). I was repeating the moves from individual parts and trying to do some attempts. At first I fell twice in the opening 7C and twice from the final move. I sent it at the 5th attempt. So it was a combination of 7c and 7B+/C, with gradually increasing difficulty. Class: About 8A+?
Then I went towards Sušice to meet the employees of High Point.
In the afternoon, I moved to the town Komárov located near to Mrtnická skála. I set "the shortest route" into my GPS which included two crossings of cart tracks. I wanted to visit a local pub in the evening but I couldn't see the bar due to the tobacco fume so I ended up buying a bottled beer and reading my Christmas present.
In the morning, I went to Mrtnická skála right away. Without much warming up, I immediately went for a clear line about which I believed it was the boulder Bez dechu. Then I realised that Bez dechu was a few centimeters away so I actually created a new variant (S povzdechem), with a similar class (7C).
After an hour and a half of climbing I also did a variant from the laying position, with a class aroud 8A+. My camera unfortunately died prematurely so there is no video from the action. Then I went on to Prague where I passed a check-up along with other sports representatitves. Then I went home.
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