Počasí neslibuje bůh ví co, ale i tak raím do Bahratalu. V lese je dost vlhko, takže pozkoušet 8B/+ v Schlachhoftový jeskyni nejde. Jdu tedy do Fucku k Dunkelkammeru 8B+, a celkově je tu o dost sušeji, postupně i vykukuje sluníčko.
Počasí
Suším chyty a pomalu se boulderem prokousávám, nakonec si jednotlivý kroky krásně vyladim a dávám pokusy. V nejlepších pokusech padám už ke konci boulderu, jednou i se špičkama v madle za hranou. Dám delší odpočinek a pošlu to tam!! Nastupoval jsem to tedy asi jinak než prvopřelezci,kteří píšou v průvodci start ze spoďáků. Ale jediný spoďáci jsou jen těsně nad zemí, takže já jsem startoval přirozeně ze sedu ze dvou bočáků a možná i proto vidím klasu spíše na 8B/B+. 8B+ si představuju asi ještě trošku jinak.
Dunkelkammer 8B/B+
Dál jdu zkusit Neurotransmitera 8A. Typická Rosťovina, traverz přes malý mrdy. Kroknu si to a prvním ostrým pokusem padám u konce boulderu. Pak je pár pokusů vždy něco špatně a tak tam nakonec nasázím dalších 5 pokusů.
Neurotransmiter 8A
Mám už toho dost a tak se jdu projít do oblasti Gulag, ale bouldery nějak nenacházím. Přejíždím na Sněžník, vyšlápnu kopec, večer trávím v hospodě a přespím na parkovišti.
Nalle 8A
Počasí
Ráno
Druhý den se scházím s Foxíkem na pravým břehu Labe. Po rozlezu zkoušíme Stratosféru 8A. Zkoušíme to s nohama ve spáře, já se natahuju do ostré lišty vlevo, kterou následně ulomím. Varianta zprava mi moc nejde, zato Foxík je v tom silnej a už pokukuje po topu. Žádná nádhera tendle boulder, takový In the Middle Of The Ass v Rocklandu. Já mezitím vylezu nádheru Analogovou Variantu 7C. Dál jdeme na Mumuland. Nejprve se mi zadaří přelézt Šoulin 7C+ a následně i místy vlhké prodloužení Zomig 8A. NAkonec se doděláme u Grima 7C, kterej vítězí nad našim úsilím. Prsty i svaly mám na kaši, čas na rest.
I dried the holds and ate my way through the boulder, tuned the moves and began with the attempts. I was only falling around the end of the boulder during the best attempts, once even touching the hold behind the edge. Then I gave it some rest and sent it! I started in a different way than my predecessors who wrote "start from the underclings" in the guide. But the only underclings to be found are just above the ground so I naturally started sitting, with two side-pulls. That's probably the reason why I class it rather as 8B(+). I still imagine pure 8B+ differently.
Another piece of rock to try was Neurotransmitter 8A. A typical Rosťa's thing with a traverse and too small fuckers. I fell from the top during the 1st real attempt. Then there was something wrong on the next ones. In the end, I wasted five whole attempts here.
I had enough so I walked into the Gulag area but I somehow couldn't find any boulders. Then I drove to Sněžník, strolled the hill, spent the evening in the pub and the night on the parking place.
The next day I met Foxík at the right bank of the Elbe. We tried Stratosféra 8A after some up-warming. I was trying a sharp edge on the left which I broke off. I wasn't very good at the right variant but Foxík excelled at it. In a moment, he was looking for the top. This boulder is no splendor - it is like In the Middle of the Ass in Rockland. Meanwhile, I climbed a great 7C variant of Analog. Then we moved on to Mumuland. First I managed to climb Zadar Šoulin 7C + and then a damp Zomig 8A. We finished our experiments at Grimo 7C, which however triumphed over our vane efforts. My fingers and muscles were totalled - time for a rest!
Bahratal & "Praváč"
The weather did not look extremely promising, but I went to Bahratal nevertheless. The forest was quite damp, so experimenting with 8B(+) at Schlachthof cave was out of the question. So I went for Fuckt at Dunkelhammer (8B+) which was overall a lot drier. Even the sun was appearing later on.I dried the holds and ate my way through the boulder, tuned the moves and began with the attempts. I was only falling around the end of the boulder during the best attempts, once even touching the hold behind the edge. Then I gave it some rest and sent it! I started in a different way than my predecessors who wrote "start from the underclings" in the guide. But the only underclings to be found are just above the ground so I naturally started sitting, with two side-pulls. That's probably the reason why I class it rather as 8B(+). I still imagine pure 8B+ differently.
Another piece of rock to try was Neurotransmitter 8A. A typical Rosťa's thing with a traverse and too small fuckers. I fell from the top during the 1st real attempt. Then there was something wrong on the next ones. In the end, I wasted five whole attempts here.
I had enough so I walked into the Gulag area but I somehow couldn't find any boulders. Then I drove to Sněžník, strolled the hill, spent the evening in the pub and the night on the parking place.
The next day I met Foxík at the right bank of the Elbe. We tried Stratosféra 8A after some up-warming. I was trying a sharp edge on the left which I broke off. I wasn't very good at the right variant but Foxík excelled at it. In a moment, he was looking for the top. This boulder is no splendor - it is like In the Middle of the Ass in Rockland. Meanwhile, I climbed a great 7C variant of Analog. Then we moved on to Mumuland. First I managed to climb Zadar Šoulin 7C + and then a damp Zomig 8A. We finished our experiments at Grimo 7C, which however triumphed over our vane efforts. My fingers and muscles were totalled - time for a rest!
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