neděle, 19. května 2013
pondělí, 13. května 2013
WC Log Dragomer: 23rd placeI took part in another world cup round during the weekend -- this time held in Log Dragomer, Slovenia. The race was set up neatly -- profiles, background facilities and anyway everything exactly as it should be. Saturday was generally a bad-luck day: We almost missed the closure, I mistakenly took my training climbing shoes, I forgot magnesium in the car... Even the warm-up did not feel as goog as two weeks before. The first qualification boulder was -- naturally -- vertical. This time it was almost fitting, I even touched (and only touched) the top. No. 2 was a hard thing, it took me 4 attempts and I was completely wasted afterwards. No. 3 didn't allow me to finish it properly - I kept climbing up to the final zone but I was always missing the power. No. 4, on the other hand, was something for me. Big holds in an overhang and a delicious one attempt only. No. 5 saw me sliding off. The cleaning boys didn't care and I had to wait for a while for the brush. Then it got better and I sent it. My performance was good enough for the 23rd place, with the seminifal gate closing right in my face. The girls were climbing pretty well in the afternoon, especially Petra Růžičková who missed her semifinals even more closely than me (finishing her top barely few second after the limit).
See the record from the qualifications. I start at 3:01:40.
The next round -- Innsbruck -- takes place over the weekend!
úterý, 7. května 2013
Modřín: 5 pieces of 8As to 8A+sAfter a week of training, I felt I needed a change - specifically, a rock. Weather did not allow for trying Ostaš and Karst so Kača and I went to the north - hoping it would be better there. It was raining all the way. The rain stopped as we arrived to Děčín. We found Modřín dry! The first thing was finishing Big Game 8A/+. My tips did not hold enough so I tried to go over the left line - quite far from the hole. Few attempts were enough.
Then we moved a few meter up. Silverstone and F3000 (both 8A) were awaiting us. Switching between both projects, I finally sent only one -- F3000.
Then Kačka and I proceeded to the central area. She gorgeously climbed up two 6As and even one 6A+. Watching her, I remembered the nice old days of Hudy Cup 2007.
Then we moved back to Nakloněná věž. Pentagon and Nymfa were wet. Not so Mandragora 8A. Tuning up the programme, I played with a nice slit and some overhang edges. I would always create a good upgrade to the existing programme expecting myself to climb up like a charm but the boulder was resisting for a while.
Finally, we went for Červenobílá trikolóra 8A. I tried flash attempt but only vaguely remembered the programme. A couple of fails, then I found a solution how to use my hands properly, which was crucial. I took just 30 seconds, then, so I did it once again for the camera.
We still got some time so I also tried nearby Dýka 8A. I approached the finish but fell off. I was losing my luck later but in the final attempt, I used a good foot move and I was on the top.
pátek, 26. dubna 2013
World Cup at KitzbuhelAfter a long time, I visited the World Cup in bouldering again. My winter training was good, some rock climbs, high motivation. I hurt my fingers at the Tuesday workout and treated it with garlic (Banán's advice) so it was healing quite quickly. Five boulders were prepared for us in the qualifications. Unfortunately, I already couldn't do the first one. Then my boots failed me just before the top. There was no more motivation, I rather struggled. I did No. 2 at the first attempt, I fell from No. 3 just from the top, I muddled on No. 4, and I enjoyed sending No. 5 at the second attempt. Overall 41st / 42nd place. Chválič made no mistake and sent all five bouders in a nice way which earned him the advance to the semifinals. Congratulations as hell! Now girls and cheer! And Chválič's semi tomorrow at 12:30! So well, WC is about verstility which I lack but I look forward to the next one nevertheless. In 14 days at Log Dragomer in Slovenia!
sobota, 20. dubna 2013
neděle, 14. dubna 2013
Slovak Championship Bratislava 2013As I had announced, a new series of races has begun. The first was the Slovak Championship in bouldering which took place in Bratislava's shopping centre Aupark. As only the qualifications took place that day, we did not hurry and arrived just before the noon. This move of ours turned out not to be the best one because the sun beat down into the walls. No temperatures around zero we have accustomed to during the winter. Two boulders couldn't let me conquer them so I advanced to the next round only as the 7th.
I also attended a duel in the evening but I got out in the first round already. We were accommodated at Tomaso Greksák's palace. (Thanks!)
The semifinals were early in the morning so the temperature was better and so were the boulders. No. 1 beat all of us, although Kubo Kováčik was almost peeking at the top. We were doing much better at the rest of the boulders. I advanced from the 1st place with score 3b4p.
Then lunch, women's finals and there we went for it. The vertical let go at the first attempt, No. 2 (with a stroke of luck) too. Then power climbing at the third one, with either a mega-jump or spread-out arms at the end. I tried a jump twice and fell off both times. The third time I tried the spread-out instead and managed to send it (as the only one). No. 4 was a natural thing. Overall, I earned the first place ahead of Cuba Kováčík and Mata Švub.
It was a pity that we constituted a small hindrance for some at the race but nevertheless, thanks to Tomaso for a good race with nice boulders!
pondělí, 8. dubna 2013
Velmi plodnou zimu, co se týče boulderingu na skalách, vystřídají 4 závody.
A very prolific winter season is ensued by a series of four races.
13-14.4. Mistrovství Slovenské republiky v boulderingu
13 - 14 April: Slovak Championship in bouldering
26 - 27 April: World Cup
11 - 12 May: ditto
17- 18 May: ditto
neděle, 7. dubna 2013
The weekend's forecast was not great. I postponed my Saturday workout to Sunday but it did not help very much. Verča, Káťa, and Alf joined me. We started with Ruda z Ostravy where Verča did some good attempts but she was too short to pass the edge.
Then we proceeded to Sarajevo where I did a new boulder made by Štěpán "just for me" -- Mr Powerful (8A). Crux holds (i.e. Mr SIlák's rails) were quite moist so I was not sure whether I could make up the moves or not. Meanwhile, some snowflakes were scarcely appearing which then turned into rain. Finally, I psyched myself up and supported by Tom Moravec, I did conquer Mr Powerful.
I also wanted to try the extended version (in fact Mr Silák using a part of Detonace). After one successful ascend, I fell off the moist rails. I paid more attention during the second one and sent it.As the holds were moist, I am not sure how to classify this thing. I would find both boulders rather easy, around 7C+ / 8A, maybe 8A(+). Škrovád did not disappoint us.
pátek, 5. dubna 2013
Obřany for the 3rd timeThis morning, I went to Obřany to try a nice project hiding an overhang. When I arrived, there was snow everywhere but the rocks were dry.
I warmed up and went for it, slowly mobilizing in a crux move. When I had it almost done, a small edge suddenly appeared. The edge turned out to be a good hold which in turn made the project easier than I supposed. Although the grip was wet, I managed to get over. Willie York 8A. Two nice power moves in an overhang plus a difficult ascend.
neděle, 31. března 2013
Na petráči to balíme a jedeme domů, po cestě se stavujeme na Čertových hradech. Docházíme ke kameni, z dálky nevypadá zle, ale z blízka to žádná pecka není. Nejprve dávám hranu Briliant za
Petrovice and Čertovy hradyGrand Prix Mnichov, the second part of the Campus decathlon, took place at Adam's on Thursday. We greated a new member, Vojta Liček. All of us created their personal bests. Our hands still hurt on Saturday morning and the weather was not great wither. In the end, we chose "Petráč". Our first stop was Vlčí kopec. To our surprise, the rocks were dry. Just the ascend areas were under snow. We focused on Pevnost. After an hour or so, Štěpán climbed up Vlčí med (7C+/8A). I started with Karavana mraků (7C), then the extended variant of Stepní vlk (8A/+).
Another Štěpán's attempt was Stepní vlk before he fell from the first part of Karavana mraků. I was tuning Křik a pláč (8A+/B) but the cleft was too moist. I even couldn't figure out the final moves. Just for the heck, I also tried Klukovský sen (8A+), one of the most serious things here. I could keep myself on the edge after a few attempts. It was not easy but in a few attempts, it will be ok.
After finalising my moves at Těžká voda (8A), we went for Vyhlídková skála. I tried Nočník and Frodo na kole (8B). I managed to finish the latter but it cost me hurted pinky and it was not that great afterwards. Then we moved towards Panelstory 7C. I did quite a fast ascend. However, with regard to the local conditions, we found it as a rather difficult C stuff. We were pretty weak in the vertical things. I dipped into Corbusier (8A) but I hurt my finger again. Slowly returning towards the car, Štěpán tried (wet) Elza (8A) again whereas I occupied myself with Ufo bába SD (8A+) which was, on the contrary, dry. What I accomplished can be seen on the video.
We got up early the next day to manage to climb something before the snow. Štěpán warmed up at Stepní vlk yet he had a hard time to get active. I used Těžká voda. Slowly going through the moves, I could feel my elbows. In the end, I luckily sent it (see the video again).
Then we were finished and went home, making a stop at Čertovy hrady. The rocks did not look bad as we were approchaing, but it was no smashing success either. At first, I did the edge of Briliant (7C), then proceeded to do a project together with Štěpán. It wasn't that exciting so I gave up after a while. Then it was sent by Štěpán so I forced myself to do it as well. Done at the 3rd attempt. A new boulder is born: Růže z Jericha (about 7C+/8A).
Well and now the dark time is coming. We could do Škrovád but that's the limit. We have to focus on the World cups!
úterý, 26. března 2013
Dál jde Štěpán na boulder Haeckisaeck za 7C+. Já mezitím restuju a běhám po kopci, přicházím zrovna, když je Štěpán v topu.
Štěpán v Haeckisaeck 7C+
Štěpán v Beowulfu 7C+
Beowulf 7C+ FA
Beowulf 7C+ FA
S Povzdechem Variant 8A+
Frankenjura and an escape to Radeč
Weather forecast for "Switzerland" was bad so we decided to go to rather closer places which were largely unknown to us: Frankenjura area. Štěpán and me departed on Thursday evening. At 2 a.m., we found ourselves under Zerbeus. Although a night session was compelling, we went to bed. After a lazy morning and a breakfast, we went for Zerbeus 8B. We were warming up at the easier things and then proceeded to Zerbeus' right line. Name and class unknown but it looked very well -- rather power-based climbing. I fell twice from the top, Štěpán began to be a little bored, but at third time, I finished that.
I found the class on the net - 7C. If you know the name, please tell us in the comments. The next thing was Zerbeus -- some steps had to be left out due to the moist surface. Crux was playable, though. The top variant was not possible but I managed to make up a different move with the left heel. The boulder was left for another day, then.
The next stop was the Waischenfelder Boulderblock area, which was by contrast dry. The first thing was Rampino 7C (see the video on Štěpán's blog). Then I motivated myself to try a flast at Lanlords 8A+ where I cound't pass over the last move. Štěpán was tuning a nearby 8A but we couldn't figure out the way. Leaving Waischenfelder Boulderblock, we used the opportunity of being in the north and went further for Antagonista 8A. It was right along the way, just like the previous one. Totally wet feet and some wet holds couldn't stop us from sending the boulder.
The next day, we went for Flubber we found quite near to the road the previous evening. It was quite cold and the wind was very strong. I tried another flash but Flubber corroborated the notion that local boulders won't give you anything for free. Then we spent like an hour tuning up the programme. We are quite short so we had to do a few steps in a different way as designed. I finally managed to conquer the boulder while Štěpán fell from the edge. Persistence is much needed here in Jura.
Another gem along the way was a boulder called Terminator 8A. We couldn't do the moves despite spending here an hour so we gave up and went hiking through that pretty valley instead. In the place where we would have least expected that, we found a guy under the a boulder called Evergreen terrace.
We spent our rest day walking around Pottenstein and looking for other rocks. In the afternoon, we were in a café with Ondra Nevělík who just came back from London.
On Monday morning we woke up to gentle snowfall and relatively strong wind. Subjective temperature fell well below zero so we were not hesitating for long and went to Radeč. The rock was dry a there was no wind blowing in the woods so we were excited about the conditions. Warming up on the lighter boulders, Štěpán soon sent Sršeň 7C, a few minutes later, we did a variant of Větší Kopanec 7C+. Štěpán then tried a big, unfinished project Kick Box 8A+ (again, see his blog). Sent during the first real attempt. Motivation increased.
Now I went to my project -- Capoeira for 8A/A+. I was slowly eating my way through the moves for about an hour. New climbing shoes helped. After several attempts I finished. Capoiera was hard, I guess at least 8A+. At the end, I found out I started about two moves lower than the first climber.
Later, Štěpán was tuning up Sokolovna 8A. I, having most variants finished, was concerning myself with a roof located a few meters above the main overhang. I gathered up a few logs and created the landing place. Štěpán, who meanwhile finished Sokolovna, was helping. Before it went dark, I managed to do a few ascends, happy as a small child. At the third attempt, I got myself to the top and a new megalomaniac boulder was born: Beowulf (7C+).
We survived the cold night unscathed. Motivated, we got back again in the morning. Štěpán's goal was Beowulf, mine was a longer variant of Capoiera. Adamant at the beginning, the boulder was not conquered before the afternoon. I did another variant of Šoumen 7C+. My elbows began to hurt, persuading me to give it up. I still want to do another boulder, though -- a left one, 6B+.
Štěpán also wanted to visit Mrtnická skála so we packed our stuff and went. He sent a few boulder with ease. I didn't have anything left to climb, Brtnická skála coudln't offer anything new. Time to go home.
Next time a little more sunshine, please!
neděle, 17. března 2013
Kamenná Gora - projects day!
We decided to visit a nice project in Kamenná Gora. Our team included Štěpán, Káťa, and me. At first, Kačka and I did a stone called Monstrum. Kačka was trying Tytus 6A but the boulder was too wet. Then we proceed with the project. Štěpán was just finishing with the cleaning so we could start. It took me a while to warm up but after I went through the moves and attempts again, I started to shine. Right during the next attempt, Štěpán sent it as well (wait for the video on his blog). The result was a new boulder called Venom (class 8A+).
Then we moved to another sector. Štěpán had done Szceścian (7C) here before which motivated me to do another OS attempt. It didn't work well, my arse didn't take of before the 4th attempt.
At the end, we were trying another great project located just next to Rubikon. We were immediately stopped by the second move, though (which alone is like 8A). I suppose it could be a nice project for the next winter season. The next part of the boulder was about 8A, too. I told to myself to do last two attempt before the end. I did a crux move and never let go after that. The climb-up at Rubikon was a little hard but I didn't allow myself to fall.I haven't had such a stroke of luck for a long time. Štěpán called it Painkiller. Neither neither Káťa (behind the camera) did not expect the successful climb-up so I had to try another attempt just for the video but I unfortunately could not get past the crux move this time.
So this is a challenge for the Polish strongmen! On the way back to the car, we met one of the greatest boulder aficionado - i.e. Kadej who showed us a few other projects and we learned a lot of interesting facts.