Pro podzimní lezecký trip jsem vybral oblasti Saalachtal a Maltatal v rakouských Alpách. Nejprve dáváme stopku v oblasti Saalachtal u městečka Lofer, kde mě hlavně zajímá kámen s boulderem Zunami. Vstupenkou k tomuto boulderu je jeho druhá část Gizmo za 8B/8B+. Nejprve se v krocích cítím celkem marně, přece jen ty lišty v převisu už jsou na mě moc malé, ale baví mě to – hledání optimální bety a boží náskok na hraně.
Gizmo 8B/+
Postupně se mi daří kroky ochočit a boulder vylézt. Sáhnu také do prodloužení - Zunami za 8C, v podstatě krutý zved za mikrolištu a lehký přechod do Gizma. Zadek se mi daří odlepit, ale doskoková lišta je poměrně daleko, lišty se zařezávají do kůže, a tak volím ústup, lezení bude ještě dost, rozhodně se pro Zunami za lepší podmínky vrátím.
Gizmo 8B/+
Dále navštívíme sektor Fuchsloch.
Kačka v 5A
Zde se mi daří přelézt bouldery Flying Circus 8B+ a Reloaded 8A a i Kačka si tu přijde na své. Chvíli vůbec hledám směr ve Flying Cirusu, mágo nikde a je to definované, musí (?) se lézt po seklých lištičkách, i když o kousek vedle jsou lepší chyty. Celkem lehké intro následuje do cruxu, kde se z malého bočáku na dva prsty skáče do oblé hrany, pár silových kroků k tomu po dobrých lištách a je hotovo.
Flying Circus 8B+
Zase se nejprve cítím, že klíčový krok bude nad moje síly, ale pomalu si vyladím náskok, chce to správně se zavlnit, až vše nakonec docela rychle propojím.
Flying Circus 8B+
Dalším boulderem do deníku je Reloaded za 8A, pěkná lištovačka mě pouští na pár pokusů.
Reloaded 8A
U Reloaded zkouším ještě dvě 8B: Fully Reloaded - daleký náskok doleva z lišty Reloaded je na mě až moc daleko. Prubnu ještě Ass Kick. začnu variantou ze stoje Mud-Nut za 8A, tu dávám na druhý pokus a klasa bude spíš 7C?. Pak si pod boulder sedám, mini lištičky na začátku a daleký krok do dobrého chytu, chyt se mi daří dolétnout, ale ani jednou se mi ho nepodaří staticky podržet.
Ass Kick 8B
Kačka v 5A
Rest u Millstätter see a Radler, ten tu mají boží.
V Maltatalu se nejvíce těším na nový boulder The Source za 8B+, je to úlet převis. Za Sourcem je potřeba stoupat údolím, zaplatit vstupné 19,50 Eur a jet cca 8 km směrem k přehradě. Mám GPS od Christofa Rauche a po chvíli kámen nacházíme.
The Source 8B+
Je celkem chladno, ale u boulderu ani nefoukne, úplně to nedrží a co hlavně, je tu důležitý nákoleník pro průstup boulderem, který nemám. I bez nákoleníku se mi daří krokovat, ale je to tak silové, že už pak síla nezbývá na závěrečnou pumpu do madla. Tady dnes pšenka nepokvete, zajedeme omrknout přehradu a užít trochu výhledů.
Kölnbreinspeicher
Další zastávkou je Hide and Sick za 8B+, novinka od vítěze Krudera. Dobré lišty, velké kroky a trochu scary výlez. Jsme tu ráno, je hezky chladno, přes noc i mrzlo a lišty drží perfektně. První krok nálet, nalítávám, nalítávám a dlouho nic, pak jednou udržím a záhy padám, zase pády v náletu, udržím podruhé a už dolezu. Za mě je to lehké, možná jen 8B?
Hide and Sick 8B+
Přesunu matice pod Emotional Landscapes 8A+ ze stoje, SD za 8C. Crux je společný, a to nálet z malé lišty do dobré obliny, lepším se a lepším, ale oblinu udržet? – To je kotel. Moc nechápu, že klasa ze stoje je jen 8A+.
Emotional Landscapes 8A+
Zkusím ještě odpytlit Pluto auf der Jadg za 8A+, mám nastudovanou betu z youtube, ta funguje a přelézám. Kačka zopakuje japončíky a počasí nás žene dom.
Pluto auf ger Jadg 8A+
Easy Cheesy Japanese 5A
Krásný čas ve skalách, pěkný počasí a boží bouldery.
When I was looking for a destination to my autumn climbing trip I chose
the Saalachtal and Maltatal areas in the Austrian Alps. First we stop at
the Saalachtal area near the town of Lofer. Here I'm particularly
interested in the Zunami boulder. The key to success is its second part
Gizmo 8B/8B+, first I feel hopeless, the ledges in the overhang are
just too tiny for me, but I enjoy looking for an optimal beta and the
jump to the edge is cool, too.
Gradually I'm going through the moves and finish the boulder. I try its prolonged version, Zunami 8C, which is actually a cruel pull-up over a microledge and an easy move to Gizmo. I somehow manage to lift my butt but the ledge is too far for me and I cut my skin, so I decide to leave this one for today and come back later.
Our next stop is the Fuchsloch sector. Here I climb the Flying Circus 8B+ and Reloaded 8A and Kačka has her share of fun, too. It takes me a while until I find a right direction in the Flying Circus, I can't see any chalk and according to the definition one must (?) climb over the tiny ledges, even though there are much better holds right next to them. The easy opening is followed by the crux, a jump from a little side-pull to the round ledge, then there are several power moves and that's it.
Again I feel like the crux is too much for me but slowly I work on the jump and then I connect it all quite easily.
Another boulder to check off my list is Reloaded 8A, I need only several attempts.
I then try two 8Bs at Reloaded: Fully Reloaded - but the jump is too far for me – and Ass Kick. I start with the standing version: Mud-Nut 8A, which I finish at the second attempt and I guess the grade is more of a 7C? Then I try a sit start, there are some tiny ledges and a long move to the good hold. I manage to grab it but cannot hold it.
The biggest attraction in Maltatal is the new boulder The Source 8B+, a killer overhang. One must to go up the hill and pay 19,50 EUR and then about 8 km towards the dam, but I have GPS from Christof Rauch so we find the rock after a while.
It's quite cold but there's no wind at the boulder, I can't hold very well but most of all I miss a knee cover. I figure out the moves but I lack the strength to get over the finish. Bad luck for me today. So we go and check out the dam and enjoy the view.
Our next stop is a new Hide and Sick 8B+ boulder. Good ledges, long moves and a little scary finish. We are here early, so the weather is nice and cold and the holds are pretty solid. The first move is dynamic, I keep trying and falling until I grab the hold for the first time, then I fall and once I get there again I make sure to finish. To me it seems pretty easy, maybe it's just an 8B?
I move the mats under Emotional Landscapes 8A+ from standing, SD 8C. The crux is the same for both, I make some progress but can't hold the round hold, I don't get why the grade of the standing version is just 8A+.
I go for Pluto auf der Jadg 8A+, whose beta I learned from youtube. The beta works well and I finish the boulder. Kačka repeats some stuff and then our session is ended by the weather.
Great time outdoors, nice weather and cool boulders.
Gradually I'm going through the moves and finish the boulder. I try its prolonged version, Zunami 8C, which is actually a cruel pull-up over a microledge and an easy move to Gizmo. I somehow manage to lift my butt but the ledge is too far for me and I cut my skin, so I decide to leave this one for today and come back later.
Our next stop is the Fuchsloch sector. Here I climb the Flying Circus 8B+ and Reloaded 8A and Kačka has her share of fun, too. It takes me a while until I find a right direction in the Flying Circus, I can't see any chalk and according to the definition one must (?) climb over the tiny ledges, even though there are much better holds right next to them. The easy opening is followed by the crux, a jump from a little side-pull to the round ledge, then there are several power moves and that's it.
Again I feel like the crux is too much for me but slowly I work on the jump and then I connect it all quite easily.
Another boulder to check off my list is Reloaded 8A, I need only several attempts.
I then try two 8Bs at Reloaded: Fully Reloaded - but the jump is too far for me – and Ass Kick. I start with the standing version: Mud-Nut 8A, which I finish at the second attempt and I guess the grade is more of a 7C? Then I try a sit start, there are some tiny ledges and a long move to the good hold. I manage to grab it but cannot hold it.
The biggest attraction in Maltatal is the new boulder The Source 8B+, a killer overhang. One must to go up the hill and pay 19,50 EUR and then about 8 km towards the dam, but I have GPS from Christof Rauch so we find the rock after a while.
It's quite cold but there's no wind at the boulder, I can't hold very well but most of all I miss a knee cover. I figure out the moves but I lack the strength to get over the finish. Bad luck for me today. So we go and check out the dam and enjoy the view.
Our next stop is a new Hide and Sick 8B+ boulder. Good ledges, long moves and a little scary finish. We are here early, so the weather is nice and cold and the holds are pretty solid. The first move is dynamic, I keep trying and falling until I grab the hold for the first time, then I fall and once I get there again I make sure to finish. To me it seems pretty easy, maybe it's just an 8B?
I move the mats under Emotional Landscapes 8A+ from standing, SD 8C. The crux is the same for both, I make some progress but can't hold the round hold, I don't get why the grade of the standing version is just 8A+.
I go for Pluto auf der Jadg 8A+, whose beta I learned from youtube. The beta works well and I finish the boulder. Kačka repeats some stuff and then our session is ended by the weather.
Great time outdoors, nice weather and cool boulders.
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