Vidina chladného víkendu mě žene v pátek do skal, volím Kras, zpět na resty. Začínám ve Sloupu, o rozlezu opakuji kroky v Jaxitaxovi za 8B a prstům se vůbec do těch malinkých lišt nechce. Po půlhodince jdu do ostrých pokusů, jednou pád, podruhé Top. Yes!
Jaxitax 8B
Pokračuji na Holštejn na Kru také za 8B. Typově úplně jiný boulder než Jaxitax, celotělová síla po celkem slušných chytech. Opět zopáknu kroky a jdu do ostrých pokusů. Úvodní "omáčkou" za cca 7C+ se vždy probiju, ale zbytek boulderu, který je samostatně za 8A+ mi vystavuje stopku. V té zimě tělo moc nespolupracuje, a tak mezi pokusy pobíhám po Lidomorně a snažím se zahřát. Lepší pokusy se střídají s horšími, ale každý pokus mi ubírá hodně síly, a tak se po dvou hodinách obléhání Kry vzdávám.
Chvilku se ohřeju v autě a ještě dávám zastávku na Mentorovi SD za 8A+, pěkné přidání tří kroků do vyšší verze se mi po chvilce daří odškrtnout ze seznamu projektů. Další pěkný den v Krasu.
The vision of a cold weekend drives me to the rocks on Friday. I choose Kras as my destination as I have some unfinished business here. I start at Sloup and practice the moves of Jaxitax 8B as a warm up. I can barely get fingers into the little ledges but after half an hour I start serious attempts and after one fall I get to the top. Yes!
So I move to Holštejn to do Kra 8B. The boulder's character is completely different from Jaxitax, one needs to have a strong body to overcome the holds. I practice the moves again and then start attempting. It's easy for me to get over the initial 7C+ of "fluff" but the rest of the boulder (8A+) always stops me. My body doesn't want to copperate in such a cold weather, so between the attempts I run around Lidomorna and try to get warmer. The better attempts are followed by worse ones but each of these takes a bit of my power so after two hours of trying I give up.
I sit in a car for a while to get warmer and then I make a stop at Mentor SD 8A+, and I can check off the nice addition of three moves to the harder version of the boulder from my list of projects. Another good day in Kras.
Chvilku se ohřeju v autě a ještě dávám zastávku na Mentorovi SD za 8A+, pěkné přidání tří kroků do vyšší verze se mi po chvilce daří odškrtnout ze seznamu projektů. Další pěkný den v Krasu.
The vision of a cold weekend drives me to the rocks on Friday. I choose Kras as my destination as I have some unfinished business here. I start at Sloup and practice the moves of Jaxitax 8B as a warm up. I can barely get fingers into the little ledges but after half an hour I start serious attempts and after one fall I get to the top. Yes!
So I move to Holštejn to do Kra 8B. The boulder's character is completely different from Jaxitax, one needs to have a strong body to overcome the holds. I practice the moves again and then start attempting. It's easy for me to get over the initial 7C+ of "fluff" but the rest of the boulder (8A+) always stops me. My body doesn't want to copperate in such a cold weather, so between the attempts I run around Lidomorna and try to get warmer. The better attempts are followed by worse ones but each of these takes a bit of my power so after two hours of trying I give up.
I sit in a car for a while to get warmer and then I make a stop at Mentor SD 8A+, and I can check off the nice addition of three moves to the harder version of the boulder from my list of projects. Another good day in Kras.
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