Poté, co Chris Sharma začátkem roku vylezl boulder Catalán Witness the Fitness, zakotvila ve mně myšlenka na boulder v budoucnu vyrazit. Téměř čistý strop a klasifikace 8C byly velkým lákadlem. Na jaře absolvuji sérii závodů, touha po skalách je veliká a takovou dobrou odměnou se ukazuje být útok na Catalánce, naplánuji tedy vánoční trip do Barcelony.
Barcelona 2016
Razím s Kačkou a na místo dorážíme odpoledne 21. prosince, půjčujeme auto, matice od Singing Rock spojky v Barceloně a hned druhý den vstáváme ráno, abychom stihli alespoň trochu ranní podmínky v jeskyni. Po hodince jízdy jsme z Barcelony na parkovišti u skal, držím se informací z internetu, což není nejlepší nápad, a tak se asi půl hodiny prodíráme středomořskou vegetací, než dorazíme do jeskyně. Jsem ohromen, téměř strop, v první části za cca 8B+ a malinké chyty, v druhé části dobré chyty se silovým nátahem za cca 8A+.
Hned beru lezečky a ladím kroky, rozehřeji se v druhé části, vše jde hladce, a tak se už po chvíli snažím v cruxovém kroku celého boulderu. Asi půl hodiny krotím silový náskok do takové formy, abych se v něm cítil silně a sebevědomě.
Catalán Witness the Fitness 8C
Hned beru lezečky a ladím kroky, rozehřeji se v druhé části, vše jde hladce, a tak se už po chvíli snažím v cruxovém kroku celého boulderu. Asi půl hodiny krotím silový náskok do takové formy, abych se v něm cítil silně a sebevědomě.
Catalán Witness the Fitness 8C
Crux move Catalánce
Dál jdu na intro kroky, ostré malé lišty a dobré nohy, některé kroky jdou podle videí z youtube, některé musím vymyslet dle sebe a je zkrokováno! Dnes to na ostré pokusy moc není, za prvé se už z převisu cítím unaveně a navíc, za druhé, volba ranního lezení nebyla nejlepší, protože právě ráno do jeskyně svítí slunce. Před odchodem si ještě zopakuji druhou část boulderu za 8A+ a mizíme.
Catalán Witness the Fitness 8C
Další den poznáváme Barcelonu, v rámci aktivního odpočinku hodně chodíme a jsme unešeni krásami katalánské metropole.
Barcelona 2016
Na Štědrý den volím nástup do jeskyně až na odpolední čas, ve stínu je příjemných 12°C, tělo odpočinuté a chuť veliká, v hlavě navoleno přelezení boulderu. Zopakuji klíčové kroky a nejprve zkouším úvodní pasáž boulderu vylézt na dvě části, což se daří hned, a jdu pálit ostrými. Po pár pokusech se probíjím do klíčového kroku, do žil se vlévá sebevědomí a držím doskokové madýlko. Zbytkem boulderu se i přes narůstající únavu probíjím rychle a slavím přelez!
Catalán Witness the Fitness 8C
Moje třetí 8C! Boulder byl nejprve oklasifikován jako 8B+/C, poté se ale ulomilo několik chytů v úvodní části a klasa se vyhoupla na 8C, což potvrdili další tři přelezci. Z mého pohledu letos ne nejtěžší boulder, ale klasifikace je relativní pojem, boulder absolutně vyhovuje mému stylu lezení a forma je teď vysoko.
Happiness in the Cave
Přelez zachytila Kačka na kameru a premiérově bude k vidění v pražském BBesu 4.1.2017, v rámci této akce - http://www.boulder.cz/vanocni-darek-rekap-akci-na-2017-n1320, poté na youtube.
Cova del Ocell
Zbytek pobytu trávíme v zajetí Barcelony, ochutnáváme lokální jídlo, poznáváme město, aquarium a užíváme si slunce. Krásné zakončení úspěšného roku 2016.
Barcelónská zima 2016
After Chris Sharma climbed the Catalán Witness the Fitness boulder at the beginning of the year, a thought of trying it myself in future got stuck in my head. The ceiling and the 8C grade were very tempting to me. In spring I went through a series of competitions but I longed for a proper rock climbing experience and I planned a Christmas trip to Barcelone, the boulder being a good reward for my effort during the competitions.
Kačka accompanies me and we come to our destination on 21st December in the afternoon. We borrow a car and some mats from our Singing Rock person in Barcelone and on the very next day we get up early so that we can use the morning qualities of the cave. After an hour of driving we arrive to the rocks. I rely upon the information from the internet which is not a best idea ever, so it takes about half an hour of forcing our way through the Mediterranean vegetation before we get to the cave. I'm thrilled - almost the whole boulder is a ceiling, the first part being about an 8B+ with tiny holds, and the 8A+ second part with good holds with a power reaches.
So I grab my climbing shoes immediately and start working on the moves. As a warm up I use the second part, everything runs smoothly and after a while I can try the crux. For about half an hour I attempt to manage the power jump so that I can feel strong and self-confident when doing it.
After that I start the initial moves with sharp little ledges and good footholds. Some of these can be easily done according to the youtube videos, with others I have to find my own way so that they suit me. And then I'm done for today. I don't feel like starting the serious attempts as I'm already tired and also the choice to climb early in the morning wasn't a good one as the sun heats the cave in the morning. Before we leave I revisit the second part of the boulder, the 8A+, once again.
The following day we have a trip to Barcelone and as a form of an active rest we have a very long walk. We're thrilled by the beauty of the Catalan metropolis.
On 24th December I decide to go to the cave in the afternoon. There are pleasant 12°C in the shade, I'm rested and enthusiastic and determined to finish the boulder. I revisit the crucial moves and try to climb the initial part divided into two parts, which is a piece od cake for me. So let's do this...
After several attempts I get to the crux, feeling self-confident, holding the bucket tight. Despite the exhaustion the rest of the boulder is easy for me and I can celebrate the climb!
This is my third 8C! Well, at first the boulder was graded 8B+/C, but then several holds of the initial part got broken off and the grade was changed to an 8C, which other three finishers confirmed. From my point of view this wasn't the hardest boulder of this year, but the grading is not the most important criterion - the boulder absolutely suits my climbing style and also I'm in a good shape.
Kačka recorded the climb and the video is going to have its premiere at the Prague BBes on 4th January 2017 as a part of this event: http://www.boulder.cz/vanocni-darek-rekap-akci-na-2017-n1320, and later it will be uploaded to youtube.
We spend the rest of our trip in Barcelone, tasting the local food, getting to know the town and its aquarium and enjoying the sun. It is truly a beautiful ending to a successfull year 2016.
Kačka accompanies me and we come to our destination on 21st December in the afternoon. We borrow a car and some mats from our Singing Rock person in Barcelone and on the very next day we get up early so that we can use the morning qualities of the cave. After an hour of driving we arrive to the rocks. I rely upon the information from the internet which is not a best idea ever, so it takes about half an hour of forcing our way through the Mediterranean vegetation before we get to the cave. I'm thrilled - almost the whole boulder is a ceiling, the first part being about an 8B+ with tiny holds, and the 8A+ second part with good holds with a power reaches.
So I grab my climbing shoes immediately and start working on the moves. As a warm up I use the second part, everything runs smoothly and after a while I can try the crux. For about half an hour I attempt to manage the power jump so that I can feel strong and self-confident when doing it.
After that I start the initial moves with sharp little ledges and good footholds. Some of these can be easily done according to the youtube videos, with others I have to find my own way so that they suit me. And then I'm done for today. I don't feel like starting the serious attempts as I'm already tired and also the choice to climb early in the morning wasn't a good one as the sun heats the cave in the morning. Before we leave I revisit the second part of the boulder, the 8A+, once again.
The following day we have a trip to Barcelone and as a form of an active rest we have a very long walk. We're thrilled by the beauty of the Catalan metropolis.
On 24th December I decide to go to the cave in the afternoon. There are pleasant 12°C in the shade, I'm rested and enthusiastic and determined to finish the boulder. I revisit the crucial moves and try to climb the initial part divided into two parts, which is a piece od cake for me. So let's do this...
After several attempts I get to the crux, feeling self-confident, holding the bucket tight. Despite the exhaustion the rest of the boulder is easy for me and I can celebrate the climb!
This is my third 8C! Well, at first the boulder was graded 8B+/C, but then several holds of the initial part got broken off and the grade was changed to an 8C, which other three finishers confirmed. From my point of view this wasn't the hardest boulder of this year, but the grading is not the most important criterion - the boulder absolutely suits my climbing style and also I'm in a good shape.
Kačka recorded the climb and the video is going to have its premiere at the Prague BBes on 4th January 2017 as a part of this event: http://www.boulder.cz/vanocni-darek-rekap-akci-na-2017-n1320, and later it will be uploaded to youtube.
We spend the rest of our trip in Barcelone, tasting the local food, getting to know the town and its aquarium and enjoying the sun. It is truly a beautiful ending to a successfull year 2016.
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