Dneska ráno jsem vyrazil do Sloupu, potoku ve Starých skalách už moc není a tak bouldering se může rozjet naplno. Již toho mám dost vylezeného, ale plno variant ještě čeká na přelez. Nejprve zkouším Automatix + Vasilovy Začátky s předpokládanou klasou 8B (8A+ a 7C+) a Automatix + 4 kroky + Idefix s předpokládanou klasou 8B+ (8A+ a 7A+ a 8A+). Automatixe si zopakuju celkem rychle, ale zbytek už moc nejde. Je sice hezky chladno, ale až moc sucho a oblé chyty špatně drží. Vasil mi dává velkou stopku, což nechápu, protože na pdzim jsem ho dal na Flash..:) Doprava do Idefixe to aspoň krokuju, ale bude potřeba si to pořádně nachodit než se začnou dávat ostrý pokusy. Dál se přesouvám na kombinaci Tragikomix + Mátový Sauce (8A a 7C). Tuto kombinaci po třech pokusech dávám - Tragikomixův Sauce 8A+. Dál si zkusím klíčový krok v H1N1 8B, ale jen zjistím, že Adam O. je stále jinde. Posunu se o půl metru doleva pod H5N1, který se nyní leze z polostoje, po dvou pokusech přidávám SD verzi za 8A+.
H5N1 SD - 8A+
Po 4 hodinách lezení jsem out a jedu zpět do Brna.
Today morning I went to Sloup, there is not much of the brook in Staré skály any more, so bouldering can start off. I have climbed a lot of stuff there but a lot is still to be climbed there. First I try Automatix + Vasilovy Začátky with expected class 8B (8A+ and 7C+) and Automatix + 4 steps + Idefix with expected class 8B+ (8A+ and 7A+ and 8A+). I brush up on Automatix very fast but the rest is not that fine. Is is nicely cold but too dry and round holds don't stick well. Vasil stops me, which I don't understand because in autumn I managed it on flash.. :) At least I plan the steps in Idefix on the right but I will need a lot of walking there before I can start trying for real. Then I move on to the combination Tragikomix + Mátový Sauce (8A and 7C). I make it at the third attempt – Tragikomixův Sauce 8A+. Then I try the key step in H1N1 8B but I only find that Adam O. is still somewhere else. I move half a meter to the left under H5N1, which is now climbed from half-standing, and after two attempts I add a SD version 8A+. After 4 hours of climbing I am exhausted and I am off to Brno.
Today morning I went to Sloup, there is not much of the brook in Staré skály any more, so bouldering can start off. I have climbed a lot of stuff there but a lot is still to be climbed there. First I try Automatix + Vasilovy Začátky with expected class 8B (8A+ and 7C+) and Automatix + 4 steps + Idefix with expected class 8B+ (8A+ and 7A+ and 8A+). I brush up on Automatix very fast but the rest is not that fine. Is is nicely cold but too dry and round holds don't stick well. Vasil stops me, which I don't understand because in autumn I managed it on flash.. :) At least I plan the steps in Idefix on the right but I will need a lot of walking there before I can start trying for real. Then I move on to the combination Tragikomix + Mátový Sauce (8A and 7C). I make it at the third attempt – Tragikomixův Sauce 8A+. Then I try the key step in H1N1 8B but I only find that Adam O. is still somewhere else. I move half a meter to the left under H5N1, which is now climbed from half-standing, and after two attempts I add a SD version 8A+. After 4 hours of climbing I am exhausted and I am off to Brno.
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