Uděláme ještě lehký boulder doprava za 6C+. A jdeme na další projekt, očistíme od mechu, zamágujem chyty a zkoušíme kroky. Od třetího kroku se mi to po chvíli daří vyladit a spojit, tato část tak za 7B. Pak zkouším první krok, který je sám o sobě tak za 7C+. Dva malí bočáci, malý nohy a nátah do dobrý lišty. Po pár pokusech se mi daří plácnout kousek pod lištu. Druhý krok zkoušet nejde, protože je zateklý jeden chyt. Takže projekt na zimu?:) Pracovní název Rustam s očekávanou klasou 8A+?!
Crux´s Intro move
Holštejn in the morning - Kilián 8A, Rustam
After the race in Vienna, we made a trip to Holštejn on Sunday. We set off early and were expecting some nice projects we had heard about before. And there they were. The first thing to try was a nice overhanging keel. Right the second move after the start was "Crux", a pure campus move behind a small edge. You can't push off with your leg because one foot is used and another one is hanging in the air. Once we did this move, I and Štěpán climbed up to the top where you can count on around 7A+. Štěpán called the thing Kilián, class about 8A and reportedly easier than Adam's version. You can watch Štěpán climbing at stepanstranik.blogspot.com.
We also did an easy boulder on the right side, a 6C+. And the we moved towards another project. We cleaned it, created the catch marks and tried our moves. After the third move, I was managing to improve and merge all parts. I guess it was 7B. Then another step which itself was around 7C+. Two smaller side-pulls, small spaces for the feet and then reaching for a good bar. After a few attempts I managed to get myself just below the bar. We couldn't practice the second move because one of the catches was wet. Maybe we'll go back in the winter. The preliminary name is Rustam and expected class 8A+.
After the race in Vienna, we made a trip to Holštejn on Sunday. We set off early and were expecting some nice projects we had heard about before. And there they were. The first thing to try was a nice overhanging keel. Right the second move after the start was "Crux", a pure campus move behind a small edge. You can't push off with your leg because one foot is used and another one is hanging in the air. Once we did this move, I and Štěpán climbed up to the top where you can count on around 7A+. Štěpán called the thing Kilián, class about 8A and reportedly easier than Adam's version. You can watch Štěpán climbing at stepanstranik.blogspot.com.
We also did an easy boulder on the right side, a 6C+. And the we moved towards another project. We cleaned it, created the catch marks and tried our moves. After the third move, I was managing to improve and merge all parts. I guess it was 7B. Then another step which itself was around 7C+. Two smaller side-pulls, small spaces for the feet and then reaching for a good bar. After a few attempts I managed to get myself just below the bar. We couldn't practice the second move because one of the catches was wet. Maybe we'll go back in the winter. The preliminary name is Rustam and expected class 8A+.
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