Před Vánoci se jedu vyvětrat do Labáku na převis pod masivem Stalinova hlava, Magnus psal něco o těžkém projektu. Pěkná převislá stěnka s dírkami jako ve Frankenjuře. Rozlezu se na 7C, které vede prostředkem kamene, a daří se mi vylézt z první na Flash. Hned jdu na projekt, po půl hodince mám zkrokováno, dávám pokusy, ale nejde to, fouká a mrznu. Jdu se proběhnout, tělo zahřáté a jde to hned. Ruský Kanonýr a klasa 8A+? 8B?.
Ruský Kanonýr 8A+/B
Zkouším prodloužení zleva, pěkné kroky kousek nad zemí, samostatně asi 8A+ a pak kanonýrem nahoru, projekt - Ověčkin odhadem 8B+, uvidíme příště.
I make a trip to Labák to check out the overhang in front of the Stalinova hlava rock before Christmas – Magnus wrote something about a hard project. There is a nice overhanging wall with fingerholes similar to those at Frankenjura. I start with a 7C boulder in the middle of the rock and I flash it at the first attempt. Then I move to the project and half an hour later all the moves are done and I start climbing. I'm not doing very well, though, it's pretty windy and I'm freezing. So I have a run to warm up. It helps a lot and I finish right after that. I call the boulder Ruský Kanonýr, the grade is about 8A+? or 8B?.
I also try the longer version from the left. The moves close to the ground are very cool, they make a 8A+ boulder by themselves and then I plan to climb up through the Kanonýr boulder. I call the whole project Ověčkin, the estimated grade is 8B+. We'll see the next time.
I also try the longer version from the left. The moves close to the ground are very cool, they make a 8A+ boulder by themselves and then I plan to climb up through the Kanonýr boulder. I call the whole project Ověčkin, the estimated grade is 8B+. We'll see the next time.
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