Sezóna snů, nechápu: dvě třetí místa na světovém poháru a teď na mistrovství světa neskutečné 4.místo!!! Ufff, to je brutál.
Příprava na MS byla dobrá, cítil jsem se ve formě, měl jsem jediný malý problém s bicákem, který v průběhu závodu řešila Nikol Chovanová z Fyziogymcooper. Kvalifikačky byly pěkné a daří se mi zalézt 13. postupové místo do semifinále. Tu vytrvalostnější cestu dávám tři chyty pod Top - tam obsazuji dělené 8. místo, v té bouldrovější mi vlivem natečení smeká noha a obsazuji dělené 18. místo, postup vyšel pěkně a nevzal mi tolik sil jako při posledním SP v Kranji.
Kvalifikace by Jan Virt
Při prohlídce semifinále mám radost, klasicky nepříjemný začátek, ale pak pěkné lezení po lištách a stiscích, těším se. A cesta mi sedla perfektně. Dolézám až do headwallu a vlastně nejsem ani úplně na kaši, ale pár kroků pod Topem přijde najednou moc těžký krok, padám a jsem překvapený, že se dostávám do vedení. Nakonec místo přelézá pouze Hamish McArthur, stejně jako já padá Schubert a Potocar, což pro mě znamená bombastické 4. místo a finále MS!
V ženách máme finálovou naději v Elišce Adamovské, zaleze krásně a padá jako spousta dalších závodnic v kroku nad hranou převisu. Drží 8. postupové místo, ale kontroverzní protest (viz FB horosvazu) francouzské reprezentace odsunuje Elišku na 9. místo a do finále posílá francouzskou závodnici, nechápu. Eliška má ale dobře našlápnuto a její čas ještě přijde!
Semifinále by Virt
Záznam IFSC
Odpoledne odpočívám a promítám si v hlavě semifinálovou cestu. To bylo fakt dobré – jak to, že tam všichni tak popadali? A vlastně jak to, že se mi letos tak daří? Zasloužím si to vůbec? Vždyť tu jsou profesionálové, já sedím 8 hodin v práci a do toho trénuji, na Hudy v Brně se dostanu 1x za týden/14dní. Kde bych byl, kdybych makal jako ostatní? A bylo by to vůbec lepší, nebo je to pro mě právě takto nejlepší? Spousta otázek, ale krásný pocit moci si vůbec takové otázky pokládat.
Finále je tu a bude to velký! V izolaci panuje pohodová nálada, finálová cesta nevypadá úplně nejvíc cool, hlavně závěrečná spíše technická pasáž ve výlezu. Cestou procházím dobře, ve skoku na začátku trochu zaváhám, ale napodruhé skáču v poklidu. Dolézám do výlezu, zvednu vysoko nohu a sotva dýchám, lehký odpočinek a hrnu to po malinkých lištách k Topu, kterému v pádu mávnu a jdu k zemi.
Mám velkou radost, nechal jsem tam všechno a jsem totálně vyšťavený. Koukám na výsledky a prozatím jsem na 1. místě. Hustý, to by mohlo vyjít na medaili, tajně si doufám. Vychází, ale na tu bramborovou, zbylí tři závodníci mě předlézají a na mě zbude až 4.místo, chvilku jsem trošku zklamaný, medaile, to by bylo něco, ale i 4. místo beru možná jako největší výsledek své kariéry, naprosto neskutečný. O takovém umístění jsem si nikdy ani nesnil.
Finále by Virt
Finále by Virt
Záznam IFSC
Takový výsledek je obrovskou motivací do dalšího tréninku a moc se těším na další sezónu, svěťáky v obtížnosti mě ohromně baví. Ale teď se těším na krátký odpočinek a snad i nějaké skály! Největší dík za podporu Kačce, díky které můžu trénovat, jak si usmyslím, a společně se dvěma nej klukama jsme TÝM!
Moji nej fanoušci <3
This looks like a season of my dreams! I don't get it: I scored two
third places in the World Cup and this time I got an amazing 4th place
in the World Championship. So cool!
The training was ok, I felt strong and in shape, the only tiny trouble was my biceps, but Nikol Chovanová from Fyziogymcooper was helping me during the competition. The qualifications were good, I advanced to the semifinal from the 13th place. I get to the third hold under the top of the endurance route, which earns me a shared 8th place and I slip on the boulder-like route, so I share the 18th place. It was quite ok and I dindn't get as tired as in the World Cup in Kranj.
I'm happy about the semifinal routes, the beginnings are hard, as always, but then there is a lot of climbing on ledges and grips and I'm really looking forward to this. And the route looked like it was tailored for me. I'm not really exhausted when I get to the headwall, at least I don't feel so, but few moves away from the top there is a super hard move and then I fall. It's a bit of a surprise that I'm actually first. Eventually, only Hamish McArthur gets further, Schubert and Potocar fall from the same spot as me, which means a supercool 4th place and advancing to the final of the World Championship for me!
In the womens' category we hope Eliška Adamovská will get to the final, too. She does great and falls from the move above the edge of the overhang like many other competitors. She is on an 8th place, the last one from which she could advance to the finals, but a controversial protest of the French representation team (see the Facebook of Český horolezceký svaz for more information) she is moved to the 9th place and the French representative advances instead of her. I don't get this. Eliška is in great shape, though, and her time will still come!
I take a rest in the afternoon and recall the semifinal route. How come that all the guys were falling so much? And how come I'm doing that well this year? Do I deserve it at all? There are professional climbers and I'm the one who sits eight hours at work and I only can train at the Hudy gym once in every week or two. What would it be like if I was training as hard as the others? Would it be better for me or is it the best as it is now? So many questions, but it's great to be in the situation when one can ask them.
The final has come and it's going to be huge! The overall mood in the isolation is good and relaxed and the final route, especially its final (and rather technical) part doesn't look that super hard. I'm doing well, I hesitate with the jump a little, but the second attempt is successful. I get to the finish, lift my leg and fight my way up, over small ledges and up to the top. I just wave it and fall, though. I'm really happy, I gave it all I had and I'm totally exhausted. So far I am 1st and I hope I could get a medal. In the end I'm 4th, the remaining three climbers are better. I'm a bit disappointed at first, the medal was so close, but the 4th place is great, actually. It's probably the best result of my whole climbing career – totally unbelievable. I've never dreamt of this.
Such a result is a huge motivation for training and I'm really looking forward to the next season, I really enjoy the lead climbing world cups. But now I'm really looking forward to some rest and climbing outdoors! Many thanks go to Kačka for her support. Thanks to her I can train as I wish and together with the most amazing two little boys in the world we make an amazing team!
The training was ok, I felt strong and in shape, the only tiny trouble was my biceps, but Nikol Chovanová from Fyziogymcooper was helping me during the competition. The qualifications were good, I advanced to the semifinal from the 13th place. I get to the third hold under the top of the endurance route, which earns me a shared 8th place and I slip on the boulder-like route, so I share the 18th place. It was quite ok and I dindn't get as tired as in the World Cup in Kranj.
I'm happy about the semifinal routes, the beginnings are hard, as always, but then there is a lot of climbing on ledges and grips and I'm really looking forward to this. And the route looked like it was tailored for me. I'm not really exhausted when I get to the headwall, at least I don't feel so, but few moves away from the top there is a super hard move and then I fall. It's a bit of a surprise that I'm actually first. Eventually, only Hamish McArthur gets further, Schubert and Potocar fall from the same spot as me, which means a supercool 4th place and advancing to the final of the World Championship for me!
In the womens' category we hope Eliška Adamovská will get to the final, too. She does great and falls from the move above the edge of the overhang like many other competitors. She is on an 8th place, the last one from which she could advance to the finals, but a controversial protest of the French representation team (see the Facebook of Český horolezceký svaz for more information) she is moved to the 9th place and the French representative advances instead of her. I don't get this. Eliška is in great shape, though, and her time will still come!
I take a rest in the afternoon and recall the semifinal route. How come that all the guys were falling so much? And how come I'm doing that well this year? Do I deserve it at all? There are professional climbers and I'm the one who sits eight hours at work and I only can train at the Hudy gym once in every week or two. What would it be like if I was training as hard as the others? Would it be better for me or is it the best as it is now? So many questions, but it's great to be in the situation when one can ask them.
The final has come and it's going to be huge! The overall mood in the isolation is good and relaxed and the final route, especially its final (and rather technical) part doesn't look that super hard. I'm doing well, I hesitate with the jump a little, but the second attempt is successful. I get to the finish, lift my leg and fight my way up, over small ledges and up to the top. I just wave it and fall, though. I'm really happy, I gave it all I had and I'm totally exhausted. So far I am 1st and I hope I could get a medal. In the end I'm 4th, the remaining three climbers are better. I'm a bit disappointed at first, the medal was so close, but the 4th place is great, actually. It's probably the best result of my whole climbing career – totally unbelievable. I've never dreamt of this.
Such a result is a huge motivation for training and I'm really looking forward to the next season, I really enjoy the lead climbing world cups. But now I'm really looking forward to some rest and climbing outdoors! Many thanks go to Kačka for her support. Thanks to her I can train as I wish and together with the most amazing two little boys in the world we make an amazing team!
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