Pro třech týdnech se sádrou na noze bohužel nevyšel týdenní Švajc, ale potřebuji ven, a tak razím na rychlovýpad do skal. Vybírám Kochel, kde si chci zkusit nádhernou linii Bokassa's Fridge - Assassin Monkey and Man 8C.
Assasin 8C
Zkouším nejprve stand up verzi za 8A+, jde to pěkně až na velkou rozpažku, kterou nakonec vyřeším přes mikrochytek, ale v kuse to bude těžké. Pak se zaměřím na úvodní část za 8B - Antonator. Myslím si na Flash, ale chyty jsou pekelně daleko a Flash je taky hodně daleko. Takže ladím kroky, ale levá pata moc nepomáhá, a tak to držím hodně na rukou a se štěstím mám po pár pokusech vylezeno. Zkouším si nakrokovat přelez mezi spodním 8B a vrchním 8A+, ale je potřeba dobrá levá pata a ta mi vůbec nedrží – no, taky jsem ji měsíc nepoužíval, ale i tak tam teď necítím naději na rychlý přelez.
Antonator 8B
Přemýšlím, kam dál, a přejíždím do Saalachtalu. Vítá mě kotel sněhu, i když je to skoro jen přes kopec.
Saalachtal
Rozhoduji se pro Pushed Aside 8B/B+, minule jsem nechápal, kde to startuje, ale video na internetu pomohlo. Kámen tak napůl suchý, ale po vysušení kapesníčky lezitelný, naštěstí jsou chyty ostré. Crux je hned úvodní krok: hodně silový krok ze spoďáků daleko do lištičky, pak už si to víceméně pohlídat. Strávím tady asi dvě hodiny, ale boulder pouští, klasa spíše 8B.
Pushed Aside 8B
Okouknu kameny v okolí, ale ty jsou pod vodou.
Zunami 8C
V záloze mám ještě Spitz, takže přejezd a brzká ranní session. Po rozlezu zkouším Bastarda, ale z ostrých chytů rychle prchám. Přesunuji se doprava do novinky Power Puff Girl 8B/8B+. Beta prvopřelezce mi úplně nefunguje, ale hezky si to namyslím jinak a sázím pokusy. Úvodní část se mi podaří párkrát přelézt, ale následný náskok společný s Mogadishu mě zastavuje, s lehkými bandaskami náskok hodně ztěžkl. Dávám delší pauzu a tak akorát, než vykukuje sluníčko, se mi daří přelez. Pěkný a v porovnání s ostatními bouldry na kamenu klidně B+, ale taky jsem už možná unavený..
Power Pufff Girl 8B/8B+
The foot injury and plaster ruined my plans to go to Switzerland but I
really need to get out so I make a quick trip to Kochel to try a
beautiful Bokassa's Fridge - Assassin Monkey and Man 8C line.
First I try the stand up 8A+ version, I'm doing well except for the move where I need to spread the hands and which I deal with via a microhold, but the whole thing will be really tough. I focus on the initial 8B part - Antonator. I'd like to do a Flash, but the holds are awfully far and so is the Flash climb... So I work on the moves but the left heel doesn't help much and I have to rely on my arms a lot. I'm lucky to finish within several attempts. Then I try the moves to climb from the lower 8B to the upper 8A+ but I need a good left heel, which I don't have - no wonder, I haven't been using it for a month. I don't feel this is gonna be a quick climb.
I decide to drive to Saalachtal and I'm welcomed by tons of snow, even though it's just a hill away from Kochel.
I go for Pushed Aside 8B/B+. Last time I didn't have a clue where the start was, but a video on the internet helped. The rock is half dry, half wet, but after a bit of drying with paper tissues it can be done, fortunately the holds are quite sharp. The very first move is a crux, it is a power move from underclings and far to the ledge. I spend about two hours here but in the end I'm successful. The grade is rather an 8B.
I check the rocks nearby but they are soaked.
I have a visit to Spitz as my backup plan, so I drive there and have an early morning session. After the warm up I try Bastard, but I soon run away from its sharp holds. I move to the right to a new Power Puff Girl 8B/8B+ boulder. The beta of the first finisher doesn't work for me but I find my own way and start trying. Several times I get over the first part but the following jump, shared with Mogadishu, keeps stopping me, climbing it swollen is not that easy. I take a long break and right before the sun shows up I finally climb the boulder. Nice, I guess it could be an 8B+, compared to the rest of the boulders on this rock. Or maybe I'm just tired...
First I try the stand up 8A+ version, I'm doing well except for the move where I need to spread the hands and which I deal with via a microhold, but the whole thing will be really tough. I focus on the initial 8B part - Antonator. I'd like to do a Flash, but the holds are awfully far and so is the Flash climb... So I work on the moves but the left heel doesn't help much and I have to rely on my arms a lot. I'm lucky to finish within several attempts. Then I try the moves to climb from the lower 8B to the upper 8A+ but I need a good left heel, which I don't have - no wonder, I haven't been using it for a month. I don't feel this is gonna be a quick climb.
I decide to drive to Saalachtal and I'm welcomed by tons of snow, even though it's just a hill away from Kochel.
I go for Pushed Aside 8B/B+. Last time I didn't have a clue where the start was, but a video on the internet helped. The rock is half dry, half wet, but after a bit of drying with paper tissues it can be done, fortunately the holds are quite sharp. The very first move is a crux, it is a power move from underclings and far to the ledge. I spend about two hours here but in the end I'm successful. The grade is rather an 8B.
I check the rocks nearby but they are soaked.
I have a visit to Spitz as my backup plan, so I drive there and have an early morning session. After the warm up I try Bastard, but I soon run away from its sharp holds. I move to the right to a new Power Puff Girl 8B/8B+ boulder. The beta of the first finisher doesn't work for me but I find my own way and start trying. Several times I get over the first part but the following jump, shared with Mogadishu, keeps stopping me, climbing it swollen is not that easy. I take a long break and right before the sun shows up I finally climb the boulder. Nice, I guess it could be an 8B+, compared to the rest of the boulders on this rock. Or maybe I'm just tired...
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