V pátek se zúčastním závodu na Makaku v Liberci, krásných 30 boulderů proběhnu za hodinku a půl a podaří se mi je přelézt na 33 pokusů, což mi v pohodě stačí na první místo. Pěkná pohodová atmosféra a je fajn po dlouhé době se potkat s Majzlíkama. Večer pokecáme u Foxe a v sobotu hurá za hranice na úžasné bouldry. S Kačkou tak úplně netrefíme tu správnou odbočku na kopci, to ale nevadí, protože se před námi najednou objeví boží převis, Mr. Freeze za 8A. Jdu se do toho hned rozlézt a po zahřátí posílám prvním pokusem, celkem sjízdné, ale úžasné!
Mr. Freeze 8A
Pokračujeme dál a přicházíme k TSV za 8B. Další perla v lese, velký převis a díry, stisky, těžký výlez. Chvíli ladím kroky, zkouším betu à la Foxík, nohama napřed, ale nakonec to vyřeším po svém, silovým křížem a s nohama pod sebou. Po zkrokování posílám hned prvním pokusem, 8B by mělo sedět.
TSV 8B
TSV 8B
Doráží Fox, a jdeme k Pavučině snů low 8B, což je asi šestimetrový strop po chytech – nechápu. Chci zkusit Flash, Fox radí a jdu na to. Hned u nástupu zjišťuji, že špičky à la Magnus budou pro mě nejisté, a tak vymýšlím silovější způsob, ve Fleši se mi daří dolézt až do závěrečného nátahu do dobré díry, jsem ale nateklý, přece jen ve Fleši jsem kroky kontroloval a ten strop je sakra dlouhý. Druhý pokus je o maličko lepší, třetím už vychází přelez.
Pavučina Snů low 8B
Pavučina Snů low 8B
Jdeme o kousek níž na Sputnik 8A, tři dlouhé nátahy a držet to nohama, první krok jde hned, druhý taky, jen u posledního se na chvíli zastavím a ladím "podšpičku", dám pár pokusů a je hotovo.
Sputnik8 8A
O pár metrů dál je novinka od Džanglího, a to The Tunnel SD 8A+. Jedna těžká pata na úvod a pak si pohrát s ostrými lištami, už jsem bez energie, ale ještě se mi podaří Tunnel Topovat.
The Tunnel SD 8A+
Čas už pokročil a musíme valit domů, v neděli posilka a dnes session se světly ve Sloupu se Štěpánem a Kozlem, nedorazí ještě někdo?
On Friday I take part in the competition at Makak in Liberec. I run through the amazing 30 boulders in an hour and a half and need 33 attempts in total, which is enough for a safe win. The vibe is great and it's good to meet the Majzlíks after long time. We spend the evening at Fox's and on Saturday we hurry over the borders. Kačka and me miss the right turn-off on the hill but we don't mind it as we discover an amazing overhang, Mr. Freeze 8A. I go for it right after the warm up and send it at the first attempt. It isn't really difficult but it's awesome!
We continue to TSV 8B, another jewel of this wood. I work on the moves and try Foxík's beta with feet first but in the end I make up my own, power version. After figuring out the moves I send it at the first attempt, an 8B it is.
Fox arrives and we go to Pavučina snů low 8B, which is a 6-meter ceiling with holds, unbelievable. I want to try the flash, so Fox gives me some advice and I go for it. Right at the beginning I see that the toes à la Magnus are not so good for me, so I find out more power moves instead. I manage to get to the final move of but I'm too swollen, the ceiling is pretty long. The second attempt is a bit better and the third one is successful.
We descend to Sputnik 8A, there are three long reaches and one must engage the legs, the first and second move is ok, just the last one needs a bit of work, I make several attempts and it's done.
Few meters away from Sputnik there is a new boulder by Džanglí, The Tunnel SD 8A+. A hard heel at the beginning, followed by sharp ledges, I'm very tired but still manage to finish this one.
Time's up and we must get back home, on Sunday I go to the gym and today I plan to have a session at Sloup with Štěpán and Kozel, wanna join us?
On Friday I take part in the competition at Makak in Liberec. I run through the amazing 30 boulders in an hour and a half and need 33 attempts in total, which is enough for a safe win. The vibe is great and it's good to meet the Majzlíks after long time. We spend the evening at Fox's and on Saturday we hurry over the borders. Kačka and me miss the right turn-off on the hill but we don't mind it as we discover an amazing overhang, Mr. Freeze 8A. I go for it right after the warm up and send it at the first attempt. It isn't really difficult but it's awesome!
We continue to TSV 8B, another jewel of this wood. I work on the moves and try Foxík's beta with feet first but in the end I make up my own, power version. After figuring out the moves I send it at the first attempt, an 8B it is.
Fox arrives and we go to Pavučina snů low 8B, which is a 6-meter ceiling with holds, unbelievable. I want to try the flash, so Fox gives me some advice and I go for it. Right at the beginning I see that the toes à la Magnus are not so good for me, so I find out more power moves instead. I manage to get to the final move of but I'm too swollen, the ceiling is pretty long. The second attempt is a bit better and the third one is successful.
We descend to Sputnik 8A, there are three long reaches and one must engage the legs, the first and second move is ok, just the last one needs a bit of work, I make several attempts and it's done.
Few meters away from Sputnik there is a new boulder by Džanglí, The Tunnel SD 8A+. A hard heel at the beginning, followed by sharp ledges, I'm very tired but still manage to finish this one.
Time's up and we must get back home, on Sunday I go to the gym and today I plan to have a session at Sloup with Štěpán and Kozel, wanna join us?
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