Už dlouho mám v hlavě nápad navštívit "nově" objevené bouldery v Sasku, Shivu a impozantní Immanenz. Teplota se stále drží na rozumných hodnotách, a tak razím na otočku na německý píseček. Po cestě se potkávám s Foxem a jeho If, kteří mi dělají průvodce. První zastávkou je Shiva 96 za 8A+, rozhýbu se v madlech a útočím po Flashi. Fox mě krásně provází boulderem a tuhle silovou linku posílám na Flash! Rovnou pokračuji dál Chihuahuou 8A+/B, ale nejistý program a už nulová síla mě sesílají k zemi.
Shiva 96 8A+ Flash
Dám si delší odpočinek a druhým pokusem posílám i Chihuahuu. Pokračujeme o pár metrů dál na fenomenální Immanenz za 8B. Fox mi predikuje Flash, vše mi ukáže a jak řekne, tak se daří, druhý Flash je tam! Dobré chyty, velký převis, boží kroky! Klasa za mě lehčí 8A+.
Immanenz 8A+ Flash
Hned se pouštím do projektu - nižšího nástupu: dva lehčí kroky a těžký krok-skok do nástupu Immanenz. Kroky chvíli ladím, něco je lepší, něco horší, nakonec se mi klíčový krok podaří udělat rozhoupáním a náletem do nástupového chytu vyšší verze. Chvíli pauza a jde se na pokusy. Jeden pád, druhý pád, třetím letím a držím, zbytek boulderu už nepouštím a nižší nástup Immanenze je doma - klasa 8B/B+.
Immanenz Low 8B/B+ FA
Následně ladím odbočku doprava, chyty tam jsou, ale dnes je to moc těžké a přece jen to není taková lajna. Dál mě napadá omrknout Karate Kida za 8B, podmínka na malé lišty moc není, ale chci alespoň zjistit program. I když slunce pálí, dávám celkem slušné pokusy, ale na přelez to už dneska není. Pěkné odpoledne.
It's been quite a while since I got the idea to visit the "newly discovered" boulders in Saxony - Shiva and Immanenz. Temperatures are still reasonably low so I make a quick trip to Germany. On my way I meet Fox and If and they become my guides. Our first stop is Shiva 96 8A+, I do a quick warm up and then I go for flash. Fox gives me some advice and I send it! I continue straight to Chihuahua 8A+/B, but I don't have a solid programme and any power left to do anything but kiss the ground.
I have a long rest and then I send Chihuahua at the second attempt. After that we move to the impressive Immanenz 8B boulder. Fox says I can flash it, he shows me how to do it and all goes as he had predicted - another flash for me! The holds are good, there is a great overhang and the moves are pretty cool. In my view the grade could be an easy 8A+.
Then I focus on a project - a low start: two easy moves and one hard jump-move to the beginning of Immanenz. It takes me a while to figure out the moves, some ideas are good, others are worse, in the end I manage to do the crux move by swinging and jumping to the first hold of the high start version. I take a break and then I start trying - I fall once, twice... and at the third attempt I fly and hold on, and the Low start of Immanenz is done - 8B/B+.
After that I try to go to the right, the holds are there but it's too hard today and not such a nice line. So I check Karate Kid 8B, there aren't good conditions for climbing on small ledges today but at least I want to find a suitable programme. Despite the heat I make several promising attempts but they aren't good enough to finish the boulder today. A nice afternoon.
It's been quite a while since I got the idea to visit the "newly discovered" boulders in Saxony - Shiva and Immanenz. Temperatures are still reasonably low so I make a quick trip to Germany. On my way I meet Fox and If and they become my guides. Our first stop is Shiva 96 8A+, I do a quick warm up and then I go for flash. Fox gives me some advice and I send it! I continue straight to Chihuahua 8A+/B, but I don't have a solid programme and any power left to do anything but kiss the ground.
I have a long rest and then I send Chihuahua at the second attempt. After that we move to the impressive Immanenz 8B boulder. Fox says I can flash it, he shows me how to do it and all goes as he had predicted - another flash for me! The holds are good, there is a great overhang and the moves are pretty cool. In my view the grade could be an easy 8A+.
Then I focus on a project - a low start: two easy moves and one hard jump-move to the beginning of Immanenz. It takes me a while to figure out the moves, some ideas are good, others are worse, in the end I manage to do the crux move by swinging and jumping to the first hold of the high start version. I take a break and then I start trying - I fall once, twice... and at the third attempt I fly and hold on, and the Low start of Immanenz is done - 8B/B+.
After that I try to go to the right, the holds are there but it's too hard today and not such a nice line. So I check Karate Kid 8B, there aren't good conditions for climbing on small ledges today but at least I want to find a suitable programme. Despite the heat I make several promising attempts but they aren't good enough to finish the boulder today. A nice afternoon.
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