Ambra 8B
O víkendu proběhlo páté kolo ČP ve Slaném, poprvé se lezlo "svěťákovým stylem", bouldery povedené i show dobrá, jako vždy ve Slaném. Závodu se účastnil i Adam Ondra, takže závod světových kvalit:) Kvaldou projdu s menším zaváháním, v semifinále 3 bouldery na OS a jeden nikdo nezdolal. To mně vynese 1. postupové místo. Ve finále tedy nastupuji poslední, hlava pracuje, nedaří se mně zapnout "race mode", spíš se snažím vše lézt moc opatrně, protože vím jak se daří ostatním a chybuji. Adam zvítězil, na druhém místě Honza Chvála a já třetí.
Večer popijeme místní víno, ráno už nemůžu dospat a razíme na Sněžník. Kopec je v mlze, skály naštěstí suché a podmínka luxusní. Jdeme na tělocvičnu, kde mám rozdělaný Rave Time 8B, zopakuju si kroky a prvním pokusem posílám. Za mně spíše 8A+.
Rave Time 8A+
Dál se mně zadaří na Ribstole 7C+/8A a ještě dávám variantu doleva - dolez Rave Timem za 8A/+.
Ribstole 7C+/8A
Dál jdeme do Best of Direct, koukám po Ambře 8A+/B a hned jdu do toho. Je tam "nově" odkopaný kámen a tak původní SD teĎ nejde moc lézt, tak to zkouším hned z nižšího sedu. Kroknuté je to celkem rychle, jednou se po ulomení chytu zadaří pád mimo matice, ale to mně nezastavilo. Nové SD asi 8B?
Ambra 8B Fail Sněžník
Ambra 8B - Sněžník
Dám ještě pár nálezů do novinky Jungle Style 8A, ale malinkým lištám a morfo stylu dám dva pokusy a pádím pryč. Zajdu s Kačkou ještě na její 6B projekt, dáme polívku a go home.
The fifth round of the Czech Cup took place in Slaný at the weekend, for the first time in the "world cup" style. The boulders were nice and the show good, as usual in Slaný. Adam Ondra also participated, so it was a world-class event :) I made it through the qualification with a minor failure, in the semi-final 3 boulders OS and one was not topped by anyone. This gave me the 1st place after the semi-final. This way, I was the last one to go in the final, the head is working, I cannot switch to the "race mode", I rather try to climb everything carefully because I see that others are doing well—and I make mistakes. The winner was Adam, Honza Chvála on the second place and me third.
In the evening we drink local wine, and in the morning I cannot wait to go to Sněžník. The hill is covered in fod but the rocks are dry fortunately, and the conditions are excellent. I continue in Rave Time 8B, review the steps and send it at the first attempt. In my opinion, it's rather 8A+.
We continue to Best of Direct, I have a look at Ambra 8A+/B and go for it. There is a "newly" uncovered rock, so the original SD cannot be climbed, so it try it immediately from a lower sit. The steps are done quite fast, I once fall out of the mats after I break a hold but that didn't stop me. The new SD is maybe 8B?
I also have a few climbs in a new thing Jungle Style 8A but I give the small crimps and morpho style only two attempts and I am off.
The fifth round of the Czech Cup took place in Slaný at the weekend, for the first time in the "world cup" style. The boulders were nice and the show good, as usual in Slaný. Adam Ondra also participated, so it was a world-class event :) I made it through the qualification with a minor failure, in the semi-final 3 boulders OS and one was not topped by anyone. This gave me the 1st place after the semi-final. This way, I was the last one to go in the final, the head is working, I cannot switch to the "race mode", I rather try to climb everything carefully because I see that others are doing well—and I make mistakes. The winner was Adam, Honza Chvála on the second place and me third.
In the evening we drink local wine, and in the morning I cannot wait to go to Sněžník. The hill is covered in fod but the rocks are dry fortunately, and the conditions are excellent. I continue in Rave Time 8B, review the steps and send it at the first attempt. In my opinion, it's rather 8A+.
We continue to Best of Direct, I have a look at Ambra 8A+/B and go for it. There is a "newly" uncovered rock, so the original SD cannot be climbed, so it try it immediately from a lower sit. The steps are done quite fast, I once fall out of the mats after I break a hold but that didn't stop me. The new SD is maybe 8B?
I also have a few climbs in a new thing Jungle Style 8A but I give the small crimps and morpho style only two attempts and I am off.
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