Dál jde Štěpán na boulder Haeckisaeck za 7C+. Já mezitím restuju a běhám po kopci, přicházím zrovna, když je Štěpán v topu.
Štěpán v Haeckisaeck 7C+
Štěpán v Beowulfu 7C+
Beowulf 7C+ FA
Beowulf 7C+ FA
S Povzdechem Variant 8A+
Frankenjura and an escape to Radeč
Weather forecast for "Switzerland" was bad so we decided to go to rather closer places which were largely unknown to us: Frankenjura area. Štěpán and me departed on Thursday evening. At 2 a.m., we found ourselves under Zerbeus. Although a night session was compelling, we went to bed. After a lazy morning and a breakfast, we went for Zerbeus 8B. We were warming up at the easier things and then proceeded to Zerbeus' right line. Name and class unknown but it looked very well -- rather power-based climbing. I fell twice from the top, Štěpán began to be a little bored, but at third time, I finished that.
I found the class on the net - 7C. If you know the name, please tell us in the comments. The next thing was Zerbeus -- some steps had to be left out due to the moist surface. Crux was playable, though. The top variant was not possible but I managed to make up a different move with the left heel. The boulder was left for another day, then.
The next stop was the Waischenfelder Boulderblock area, which was by contrast dry. The first thing was Rampino 7C (see the video on Štěpán's blog). Then I motivated myself to try a flast at Lanlords 8A+ where I cound't pass over the last move. Štěpán was tuning a nearby 8A but we couldn't figure out the way. Leaving Waischenfelder Boulderblock, we used the opportunity of being in the north and went further for Antagonista 8A. It was right along the way, just like the previous one. Totally wet feet and some wet holds couldn't stop us from sending the boulder.
The next day, we went for Flubber we found quite near to the road the previous evening. It was quite cold and the wind was very strong. I tried another flash but Flubber corroborated the notion that local boulders won't give you anything for free. Then we spent like an hour tuning up the programme. We are quite short so we had to do a few steps in a different way as designed. I finally managed to conquer the boulder while Štěpán fell from the edge. Persistence is much needed here in Jura.
Another gem along the way was a boulder called Terminator 8A. We couldn't do the moves despite spending here an hour so we gave up and went hiking through that pretty valley instead. In the place where we would have least expected that, we found a guy under the a boulder called Evergreen terrace.
We spent our rest day walking around Pottenstein and looking for other rocks. In the afternoon, we were in a café with Ondra Nevělík who just came back from London.
On Monday morning we woke up to gentle snowfall and relatively strong wind. Subjective temperature fell well below zero so we were not hesitating for long and went to Radeč. The rock was dry a there was no wind blowing in the woods so we were excited about the conditions. Warming up on the lighter boulders, Štěpán soon sent Sršeň 7C, a few minutes later, we did a variant of Větší Kopanec 7C+. Štěpán then tried a big, unfinished project Kick Box 8A+ (again, see his blog). Sent during the first real attempt. Motivation increased.
Now I went to my project -- Capoeira for 8A/A+. I was slowly eating my way through the moves for about an hour. New climbing shoes helped. After several attempts I finished. Capoiera was hard, I guess at least 8A+. At the end, I found out I started about two moves lower than the first climber.
Later, Štěpán was tuning up Sokolovna 8A. I, having most variants finished, was concerning myself with a roof located a few meters above the main overhang. I gathered up a few logs and created the landing place. Štěpán, who meanwhile finished Sokolovna, was helping. Before it went dark, I managed to do a few ascends, happy as a small child. At the third attempt, I got myself to the top and a new megalomaniac boulder was born: Beowulf (7C+).
We survived the cold night unscathed. Motivated, we got back again in the morning. Štěpán's goal was Beowulf, mine was a longer variant of Capoiera. Adamant at the beginning, the boulder was not conquered before the afternoon. I did another variant of Šoumen 7C+. My elbows began to hurt, persuading me to give it up. I still want to do another boulder, though -- a left one, 6B+.
Štěpán also wanted to visit Mrtnická skála so we packed our stuff and went. He sent a few boulder with ease. I didn't have anything left to climb, Brtnická skála coudln't offer anything new. Time to go home.
Next time a little more sunshine, please!