V průběhu zimy vyrážím opakovaně do Labáku. Pod Stalinovou hlavou mám rozdělanou prodlužku Ruského Kanonýra za cca 8B+, ale dírky v převisu jsou i přes nízké teploty stále trochu zavlhlé, koncem ledna se skály lezcům uzavírají, a tak mě vítr odvane na Černý Bivak.
Pod Stalinovou Hlavou
Na Bivaku mám dlouho v hlavě propojku – zleva nalézt do Héliose, 8 víceméně lehkých kroků do gradujícího 8B+. Moc jsem tomu nevěnoval pozornost, už je to spíše další z kombinací na tomto kusu skály, ale při první session si opakuji kroky a ty jsou boží. Nejprve to sotva krokuji a vzpomínám, jak jsem to tu před lety lezl. Zdá se mi to sakra těžké a závěrečné kroky ani neudělám. Zjišťuji, že lišta, ze které se dělal kříž do dobrého květáku, se zmenšila, naštěstí se mi podaří vymyslet jiná beta přes malou dírku, ale udělat kroky v kuse, to bude fuška. Každou další session se v krocích cítím lépe a lépe, naběhám to a s oteplením k 8 stupňům začíná perfektně fungovat tělo, letos tu zimu celkem trpím. Během čtvrté session dolézám do topu. Klasa spíš lehké 8C.
Faethon 8C
Faethon 8C
In winter I keep coming back to Labák where I have an unfinished business under Stalinova hlava: a prolonged version of Ruský Kanonýr for about 8B. Unfortunately, the fingerholes in the overhang are still a bit moist, and the rocks are closed for climbing since the end of January, so I end up at Černý Bivak instead.
I've been thinking about connecting Bivak to Hélios from left, there are eight quite easy moves to an 8B+. I haven't given it much attention, I thought it was just another combination of boulders on this rock, but during the first session I practiced the moves and they were plain amazing. At first it's hard to remember how I was climbing it. It seems hard as hell and I can't even get through the final moves. The ledge got somehow smaller, fortunately I make up a new beta over a tiny hole but it won't be easy to do all the moves at once. I keep improving, though, every session is better than the previous one, I keep practicing and once the temperatures rise to 8 degrees, my body activates well – this winter isn't so harsh on me. On my fourth session I get to the top, the grade is probably an easy 8C.
I've been thinking about connecting Bivak to Hélios from left, there are eight quite easy moves to an 8B+. I haven't given it much attention, I thought it was just another combination of boulders on this rock, but during the first session I practiced the moves and they were plain amazing. At first it's hard to remember how I was climbing it. It seems hard as hell and I can't even get through the final moves. The ledge got somehow smaller, fortunately I make up a new beta over a tiny hole but it won't be easy to do all the moves at once. I keep improving, though, every session is better than the previous one, I keep practicing and once the temperatures rise to 8 degrees, my body activates well – this winter isn't so harsh on me. On my fourth session I get to the top, the grade is probably an easy 8C.
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