Na podzim máme dlouho naplánovaný trip do Švajcu se Štěpánem, přidává se Roman Kučera a i přes ne úplně příznivou předpověď razíme – dva dny má pršet, to bude ok. V sobotu se po cestě zastavíme v Zillertalu, teamově vylezeme Faginatora za 8A a jdeme k Sierra Madře za 8C. Krokuji a mám nadějné pokusy, ale na přelez si budu muset počkat do příštího roku. Za svitu čelovek ještě skočíme na Der Nihilist za 8A+ a opět máme team ascent, já na Flash. Příjemné zakončení dne, spíše 8A?
Der Nihilist 8A+ Flash
Večer ještě valíme směr Švajc, přes Passo a hromady sněhu klesáme okolo půlnoci do údolí Ticina. Ráno spěcháme do Valle Bavony, ať stihneme zalézt ještě před deštěm. Bohužel pršelo už včera a vše je dost mokré. Kluci ladí November Rain 8A+ a já legendární Off the Wagon 8B+.
Off the Wagon 8B+
Následující tři dny se střídá déšť s mlhou, a tak jen smutně chodíme od mokrého boulderu k mokrému boulderu a v Bavoně stihneme jen jedno trochu slušné odpoledne. Roman ladí plotnu za 8A a já úvodní krok ve Wagonu, nic jiného lézt nejde.
Roman v plotně 8A
Ve čtvrtek se vyčasí a konečně se dá trochu lézt, kluci přelézají November Rain 8A+, já zkusím Flash, ale bez úspěchu. Pak mám dobrou session na Wagonu, první pokusy jdou dobře a i se mi podaří udělat první krok, vzápětí však hned padám, slábnu. Ještě pozkoušíme krásný King of Sonlerto za 8A+, ale bez přípravy u videa lezeme špatně a nedáváme.
V pátek se krokuje na Dreamtime kamenu, já Dreamtime 8C a kluci Daggera. Kroky mi jdou slušně až na náskok uprostřed, daří se mi ho udělat jednou z 30 pokusů a tuším, že v kuse to bude tvrdé. V sobotu opět s čelovkami razíme na podmínku, je pěkně, chladno, v Dreamtimu dolézám do skoku, ale ten v kuse ani jednou nedotáhnu do doskokové hrany, zmar, bída a utrpění. Po dvou hodinách je mi jasné, že je konec a jdu za klukama. Flash Jungle Boogie 8A mi uniká o vlásek, druhým pokusem dávám. Trip zakončím na pěkné lištovačce La Pelle Left za 8A.
Jungle Boogie 8A
La Pelle left 8A
Tak zas někdy a snad lépe.
In autumn I make a long planned trip to Switzerland with Štěpán and Roman Kučera, even though the weather forecast is unfavourable – we can deal with two rainy days. On Saturday we make a stop at Zillertal and together we climb Faginator 8A and then we proceed to Sierra Madra 8C. I do the moves and some attempts look promising, but I'll need to wait for this one yet. After that we make another team ascent – Der Nihilist 8A+ and this time we need to use headlamps to get some light. I manage to score a Flash here. I guess the grade is more of an 8A? But it's a real nice ending of the day.
In the evening we get through Passo and heaps of snow to the Ticino valley. In the morning we hurry to Valle Bavona to enjoy climbing before it starts raining. Unfortunately, we're too late – the rain has come the day before and the rocks are pretty soaked. The guys work on November Rain 8A+ and I try the legendary Off the Wagon 8B+.
During the following three days there's lots of rain followed by mist and more rain, so we just sadly walk from one soaked boulder to another. We only have one good afternoon in Bavona, Roman tries an 8A slab and I work on the first move of Wagon, we can't climb anything else in these conditions.
On Thursday the weather improves and finally we can do something. The guys finish November Rain 8A+ and I try flashing it with no success. Then I have a really good session at Wagon, the first attempts go well and I do the first move but then I fall and gradually I grow weaker. We also try a beautiful King of Sonlerto 8A+ but we don't climb that well without the video, so we can't finish.
On Friday we move to the Dreamtime rock, I'm working on Dreamtime 8C and the guys try Dagger. I'm doing quite well, except for the jump in the middle, which I do just once in 30 attempts, so I guess climbing the whole boulder at once will be cruel. On Saturday return with our headlamps again, the weather is cool and the conditions are good. I reach the jump in the Dreamtime boulder but I can't get any further and after two hours of suffering I give it up for now. I'm pretty close to Flash of Jungle Boogie 8A, though. In the end I climb the boulder at the second attempt. I finish the trip with La Pelle Left 8A.
So I hope to come back soon and do better next time.
In the evening we get through Passo and heaps of snow to the Ticino valley. In the morning we hurry to Valle Bavona to enjoy climbing before it starts raining. Unfortunately, we're too late – the rain has come the day before and the rocks are pretty soaked. The guys work on November Rain 8A+ and I try the legendary Off the Wagon 8B+.
During the following three days there's lots of rain followed by mist and more rain, so we just sadly walk from one soaked boulder to another. We only have one good afternoon in Bavona, Roman tries an 8A slab and I work on the first move of Wagon, we can't climb anything else in these conditions.
On Thursday the weather improves and finally we can do something. The guys finish November Rain 8A+ and I try flashing it with no success. Then I have a really good session at Wagon, the first attempts go well and I do the first move but then I fall and gradually I grow weaker. We also try a beautiful King of Sonlerto 8A+ but we don't climb that well without the video, so we can't finish.
On Friday we move to the Dreamtime rock, I'm working on Dreamtime 8C and the guys try Dagger. I'm doing quite well, except for the jump in the middle, which I do just once in 30 attempts, so I guess climbing the whole boulder at once will be cruel. On Saturday return with our headlamps again, the weather is cool and the conditions are good. I reach the jump in the Dreamtime boulder but I can't get any further and after two hours of suffering I give it up for now. I'm pretty close to Flash of Jungle Boogie 8A, though. In the end I climb the boulder at the second attempt. I finish the trip with La Pelle Left 8A.
So I hope to come back soon and do better next time.
Žádné komentáře:
Okomentovat