Venku mrzne, ale je krásně modro a pro bouldristy ta pravá podmínka. Razím do Labáku, po cestě nabírám Lukáše Černého, který bude dokumentovat moje lezení. Na místě leží trocha sněhu a je krásně.
V plánu je nejdříve dolézt rozdělaný projekt - Avenger doprava. Mám s sebou žebřík, očistím, vymyslím, a prvním ostrým pokusem jsem i přes několik chyb nahoře. To šlo rychle. O kus těžší něž Avenger, vykopávám Groot 8A+/8B.
Groot 8A+/8B
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Groot 8A+/8B
A jdu na hlavní cíl dne, zkrokovat si project - propojku z Marylin do Pig Power Problemu. Správnou sekvenci se mi podaří trefit téměř hned, samostatně kroky v přelezu cca 8A+, nejtěžším místem je přidání k dírce z Avengera. Celkově tedy 6 kroků Marylin za 8A+/B, 8 kroků 8A+ přelez a 6 kroků Pig Power Problemu za 8A+, celkem fuška.
Chci si naběhat přelezovou část, a tak startuji ze žebříku na hraně stropu. Po několika pokusech se mi daří dolézt až do konce Pig Problemu. Mám radost: je to real. Na závěr ještě zopakovat Marylin, ta jde dnes snadno, a tak i dvakrát pokračuji už celým projektem doleva a padám kousek za polovinou boulderu – dnes už sem na kaši.
Project 8C
It's freezing but the sky is blue and the conditions for bouldering are great, so I set off for Labák and on my way I pick up Lukáš Černý who agreed to record my climbing today.
First I plan to finish the project-in-progress – climbing from Avenger to the right. I have a ladder with me, so I can clean the rock. During that I think it through and the very first attempt is successful, even though I made some mistakes. Wow, that was quick! It's a bit harder than Avenger, I call it Groot 8A+/8B.
And then comes the main project of the day - climbing from Marylin to Pig Power Problem. I figure out the right sequence of moves almost immediately, just the link between the boulders is an 8A+. In total it consists of six moves of Marylin for about 8A+/B, 8 moves of the 8A+ link and 6 moves of Pig Power Problem for 8A+ Pretty tough.
I want to work on the 8A+ link, so I start by climbing to the edge of the ceiling from the ladder. Several attempts later I manage to get to the end of Pig Power Problem, which makes me really happy – it proves it's feasible! Then I repeat Marylin. It goes well today, so I twice try to climb the whole project at once and I fall in the beginning of the second half of the boulder. I'm exhausted, so let's call it a day.
First I plan to finish the project-in-progress – climbing from Avenger to the right. I have a ladder with me, so I can clean the rock. During that I think it through and the very first attempt is successful, even though I made some mistakes. Wow, that was quick! It's a bit harder than Avenger, I call it Groot 8A+/8B.
And then comes the main project of the day - climbing from Marylin to Pig Power Problem. I figure out the right sequence of moves almost immediately, just the link between the boulders is an 8A+. In total it consists of six moves of Marylin for about 8A+/B, 8 moves of the 8A+ link and 6 moves of Pig Power Problem for 8A+ Pretty tough.
I want to work on the 8A+ link, so I start by climbing to the edge of the ceiling from the ladder. Several attempts later I manage to get to the end of Pig Power Problem, which makes me really happy – it proves it's feasible! Then I repeat Marylin. It goes well today, so I twice try to climb the whole project at once and I fall in the beginning of the second half of the boulder. I'm exhausted, so let's call it a day.
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