Mezi tréninkem na závody cítím, že potřebuji někam ven do skal. Počasí je stále letní, a tak volím možnost vyjet na Krkavku s Kubou Jedličnou a navázat se na lano. Po rozehřátí na dřevě od 2climb jdu do Krkavčí Matky 8a a i když celkem hledám chyty, daří se mi Onsight.
Krkavka
Dál se mi líbí lajna River Raid za 8b+, okoukám úvodní boulder od Zdika Dunky a jdu do Flashe. Celou cestou proběhnu celkem bez problémů a vlastně mi natéká podobně jako v Krkavčí Matce. Myslím, že obtížnostně se dá srovnat s 8b, které jsem nedávno lezl ve Francii.
Dál nalézám do Kompletace 8c+ od Adama Ondry, ve které se od roku 2014 ulomilo pár chytů. Cesta nebyla od té doby zopakována a proslýchalo se, že je to nyní obtížnostně spíše 9a. Jedná se o boulder cca 8A+/B a dolez cestou za 10-. Hned v prvním nálezu se mi daří udělat všechny kroky a ve druhém pokusu padám v posledním kroku úvodního boulderu, to byla škoda. Další dva pokusy jsou slabší, začínám pociťovat únavu a hlavně si nehlídám všechny kroky, hlavou už jsem někde výš. Na poslední pokus se zkoncentruji, dávám boulder a zbytek si už pohlídám. Mám radost, číselně moje nejtěžší cesta!
Send train
I need a break between trainings for competitions and I miss outdoor climbing. The weather is still hot like in summer so I decide to join Kuba Jedlička, go to Krkavka and try a bit of rope climbing. After a warm up I go for Krkavčí Matka 8a and even though I struggle with finding the right holds I score an Onsight.
I also like the River Raid 8b+ line, so first I check out the boulder by Zdik Dunka att the bottom of it and try a Flash climb. I climb the whole route quite easily and don't seem to be swollen more than when I was climbing Krkavčí Matka. I think the difficulty is similar to the 8b that I was recently climbing in France.
Then I try Kompletace 8c+ by Adam Ondra. Few holds have been broken off since 2014 and none could repeat the route since then. Now people say that it's probably more of a 9a. It consists of a boulder with grade of about 8A+/B and the 10- finish. Right at the first attempt I manage to do all the moves and at the second attempt I fall from the last move of the initial boulder – what a pity! The next two attempts are quite poor, I'm starting to feel tired and can't do all the moves properly, as I'm already thinking of what's up next. But I really focus on the last attempt, climb the boulder and then make sure to finish. I'm really happy, it's my hardest route as for the grade!
I also like the River Raid 8b+ line, so first I check out the boulder by Zdik Dunka att the bottom of it and try a Flash climb. I climb the whole route quite easily and don't seem to be swollen more than when I was climbing Krkavčí Matka. I think the difficulty is similar to the 8b that I was recently climbing in France.
Then I try Kompletace 8c+ by Adam Ondra. Few holds have been broken off since 2014 and none could repeat the route since then. Now people say that it's probably more of a 9a. It consists of a boulder with grade of about 8A+/B and the 10- finish. Right at the first attempt I manage to do all the moves and at the second attempt I fall from the last move of the initial boulder – what a pity! The next two attempts are quite poor, I'm starting to feel tired and can't do all the moves properly, as I'm already thinking of what's up next. But I really focus on the last attempt, climb the boulder and then make sure to finish. I'm really happy, it's my hardest route as for the grade!
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