Na Nový rok razíme s Kačkou a Gulikem ven do Moravského krasu, máme krásné počasí, tak se chceme provětrat a hlavně jsem natěšený na Nunavut 8C, který mám připravený na přelez. Bohužel je nástupový chyt mokrý, takže přesun na Holštejn oprášit si kroky v projektu z jara - Drift v protisměru a dolez Leda Kostí, respektive Kostějem, kde jsem strávil 4 dny projektováním, ale už nebyla vytrvalost celé topropojit. 16 těžkých kroků bez odpočinku, úvodní crux přes malinkou lištu v horizontální poloze a závěrečná pumpa z Kostěje s bandaskama.
Iceberg 8C
Už při rozlezu se cítím silný a rychle opakuji jednotlivé sekvence projektu. Doráží Štěpán a dávám ostré pokusy, pád v úvodu, pak pokus, kde padám až v nálezu do Kostěje, pak zase pád v úvodu a čtvrtým pokusem se probiju do Kostěje a s dávkou štěstí se mi podaří udržet topová lišta - Iceberg 8C! Bomba hned na úvod roku 2020.
Iceberg 8C
Dále zkouším závěr Terranovy, Vrtuli a Topinku, ale nikde žádný progres, nakonec se přidám ke Štěpánovi a prvním pokusem proběhnu Zkratkou Machrů 8A.
On the New Year's day Kačka and Gulik and me go to Moravský kras. The weather is great and I'm looking forward to some fresh air and also to Nunavut 8C, which I'm ready to climb. Unfortunately, the first hold is wet so we move to Holštejn to repeat the moves of the project from the last spring - the Drift boulder climbed reversely and finished by Leda Kost, or rather Kostěj. I've already spent about 4 days by planning and working on the moves but I didn't have enough endurance to connect it all together. There are 16 hard moves with no rest, a crux over a tiny ledge in horizontal position right at the beginning and the final move from Kostěj where I'm already pretty swollen.
During the warm up I feel strong and quickly repeat the individual sections of the project. Štěpán arrives, too, and I start with the serious attempts. First I fall from the first move, then from the start of Kostěj, then another fall from the first move and at the fourth attempt I get to Kostěj and with luck I manage to hold the top ledge - Iceberg 8C! A huge success right at the beginning of 2020.
I also try the finish of Terranova, Vrtule and Topinka, but I don't make any progress anywhere, so I join Štěpán and climb Zkratka Machrů 8A at the first attempt.
On the New Year's day Kačka and Gulik and me go to Moravský kras. The weather is great and I'm looking forward to some fresh air and also to Nunavut 8C, which I'm ready to climb. Unfortunately, the first hold is wet so we move to Holštejn to repeat the moves of the project from the last spring - the Drift boulder climbed reversely and finished by Leda Kost, or rather Kostěj. I've already spent about 4 days by planning and working on the moves but I didn't have enough endurance to connect it all together. There are 16 hard moves with no rest, a crux over a tiny ledge in horizontal position right at the beginning and the final move from Kostěj where I'm already pretty swollen.
During the warm up I feel strong and quickly repeat the individual sections of the project. Štěpán arrives, too, and I start with the serious attempts. First I fall from the first move, then from the start of Kostěj, then another fall from the first move and at the fourth attempt I get to Kostěj and with luck I manage to hold the top ledge - Iceberg 8C! A huge success right at the beginning of 2020.
I also try the finish of Terranova, Vrtule and Topinka, but I don't make any progress anywhere, so I join Štěpán and climb Zkratka Machrů 8A at the first attempt.
Žádné komentáře:
Okomentovat