Quali 1 by E. Fowke
Dvojka, to je boží pohybovka, skočit do struktury a rovnou dál, v zóně jsem opět na první pokus, do topu to nevymyslím, druhým pokusem pochopím, co a jak, a protláčím do topu.
Moskva by Tsarev
Trojka je asi nejlehčí boulder, v prvním pokusu smykne měkká lezka, přezouvám pneu a druhým pokusem jsem v topu. Čtyřka je plotna, navážím se na špatnou strukturu, tady cítím, že výměna nohou je pro mě unreál, a tak se snažím skákat přímo do zóny, kterou ani jednou neudržím.
Čtverka by Lipenská
Pětka je silová lahůdka, v prvním pokusu netrefím přesně lištu, v opravě si ale vychutnám přelez.
Výkon 3T4Z stačí na 29. místo s tím, že jediná zóna navíc by už znamenala postup do semifinále. Silově to dneska bylo výborné, ale dokud se nezlepším v kolmicích a těch divnotechnických krocích, tak pro mě postup do dalších kol bude ležet vysoko. Bouldery jsou dneska o úroveň těžší než v Meiringenu, a tak kluc – Štěpán, Roman Kučera a Tomáš Duchoň – bojují o zóny a končí na 103. místě, respektive na děleném 88. – 100. místě. Adam má postup hodně na hraně a jsou to nervy až do konce kvalifikace, v mé skupině má o jednu zónu více než já a vychází mu postup přesně z 10. místa ve skupině, druhý den to je koncert a v semifinále je o třídu lepší než zbytek světa, ve finále se před něj dostává skvěle lezoucí Jernej Kruder, pěkná podívaná. Nyní světový pohár pokračuje dvěma závody v Číně, kterých se nebudu účastnit, další kolo pro mě bude v Mnichově 18. – 19. května.
Days go by and I pack my representation T-shirt again and set off to Moscow for the second World Cup. Even though it's sort of "near", the Thursday journey is arduous, we get up at 2 a.m. and arrive in the evening. On Friday we take a day off and on Saturday afternoon the qualification starts, which is a bit unusual. I don't feel very well during the warm up but the qualification itself then goes great. The first boulder is a power boulder with a mantel, I get over the overhang immediately but can't get to the aix structure so I only record a zone.
Number two is an awesome dynamic boulder with a jump to the structure, I need just one attempt to reach the zone, but can't get to the top. At the second attempt I figure it out and the top is mine.
The third boulder is probably the easiest one, even though I slip at the first attempt, but after changing shoes I get to the top. The fourth boulder is a slab, I struggle with switching feet so I try to jump to the zone but all in vain.
Number five is a cool power boulder, at the first attempt I miss the ledge but after that I really enjoy climbing it. Another top for me.
My score 3T4Z is enough for the 29th place. I was just one zone away from the semifinal. As for power stuff, I was good today, but if I don't improve in climbing the verticals and the weird technical stuff, I can't get any further. Today's boulders were about one level harder than those in Meiringen, so the guys (Štěpán, Roman Kučera and Tomáš Duchoň) were fighting for the zones and ended 103th (or more precisely: on the shared 88-100th place). Adam is balancing on the line and the qualification is a true nailbiter, in my group he has one more zone compared to me and passes to the semifinal from the 10th place. On the next day Adam does a super awesome job and is one level above the rest of the world but in the final Jernej Kruder gets before him, what a spectacle! Two rounds of World Cup in China will follow, I'm not going o these, and the next round after that will be in Munchen on 18 and 19th May.
Days go by and I pack my representation T-shirt again and set off to Moscow for the second World Cup. Even though it's sort of "near", the Thursday journey is arduous, we get up at 2 a.m. and arrive in the evening. On Friday we take a day off and on Saturday afternoon the qualification starts, which is a bit unusual. I don't feel very well during the warm up but the qualification itself then goes great. The first boulder is a power boulder with a mantel, I get over the overhang immediately but can't get to the aix structure so I only record a zone.
Number two is an awesome dynamic boulder with a jump to the structure, I need just one attempt to reach the zone, but can't get to the top. At the second attempt I figure it out and the top is mine.
The third boulder is probably the easiest one, even though I slip at the first attempt, but after changing shoes I get to the top. The fourth boulder is a slab, I struggle with switching feet so I try to jump to the zone but all in vain.
Number five is a cool power boulder, at the first attempt I miss the ledge but after that I really enjoy climbing it. Another top for me.
My score 3T4Z is enough for the 29th place. I was just one zone away from the semifinal. As for power stuff, I was good today, but if I don't improve in climbing the verticals and the weird technical stuff, I can't get any further. Today's boulders were about one level harder than those in Meiringen, so the guys (Štěpán, Roman Kučera and Tomáš Duchoň) were fighting for the zones and ended 103th (or more precisely: on the shared 88-100th place). Adam is balancing on the line and the qualification is a true nailbiter, in my group he has one more zone compared to me and passes to the semifinal from the 10th place. On the next day Adam does a super awesome job and is one level above the rest of the world but in the final Jernej Kruder gets before him, what a spectacle! Two rounds of World Cup in China will follow, I'm not going o these, and the next round after that will be in Munchen on 18 and 19th May.
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