Už dlouho jsme s Kačkou měli v hlavě trip do USA - chtěli jsme spojit lezení s cestováním, a to na co nejdelší dobu. Naplánujeme měsíční výpad, já vyberu projekty na skalách a po skončení závodní sezóny balíme kufry a tradá do Kalifornie. Začínáme San Franciscem, Los Angeles a rychle do Vegas, kde za kasíny leží kopec posetý kameny z krásného červeného pískovce a můj první projekt, Meadowlark Lemon V14. I když začíná podzim, poušť u Las Vegas je nekompromisní a teplota během dne vylézá vysoko přes 30 stupňů, žádná podmínka. První den tedy dáme rozlez, podaří se mi přelézt nádherný vzdušný Fear of Black Hat V9 a v tom teple alespoň naimitovat Meadowlark Lemon - variantu ze stoje za V13. Den rest, další den vstávání se sluníčkem a pelášíme k místní ikoně. Mikrolišty drží o poznání lépe, po chvíli krokuji a za další hodinku se mi daří přes lišty probít. Lezecky žádná paráda, ale pohledově vděčná věc.
Fear of Black Hat V9
Meadowlark Lemon Stand V13
Meadowlark Lemon Stand V13
Z vyprahlé pouště mizíme rychle pryč a přes národní parky v Utahu stoupáme do coloradských hor. Teplota klesá o dvacet stupňů a konečně se dá dýchat. V Coloradu trávíme 10 dní, každý druhý den lezeme, o restech obdivujeme krásnou přírodu, NBA, NHL a družíme se s českou kolonií v Silvethornu. Nejvíce pokouším brutální strop v RMNP - Paint it Black za V15, ale ani tři dny pokusů nestačí na přelez. Úvodními kroky se probiji celkem rychle, ale ani jednou se mi nepodaří provést nenápadné prohození paty za špičku. Rozhodně dobrý trénink ve stropě.
Paint it Black V15
RMNP
Mezi pokusováním Paint It Black přelézám po dvou sešnách další stropovou lahůdku v Clear Creek Canyonu - Echale za V14. Echale jsem již dvakrát zkoušel, vždy při svěťáku ve Vailu, tehdy bylo ale vždy teplo a ani jsem si boulder nekroknul. Nyní se mi daří udělat kroky během pár minut a brzy mám pokus, ve kterém vypadnu z vršku boulderu. Následují dvě hodinky marnosti v prvním silovém kroku do bekendu, frustrace, rest a přelez po dni odpočinku.
Echale V14
Echale V14
Po prohře s Paint It Black si spravím náladu rychlým přelezem celkem schůdného Bear Toss V13 vedoucího hned vedle ukrutné lištovačky Hypnotized Minds. Poslední lezecký den přidám druhé V14 - Dark Waters Low, velké oblé chyty, pro změnu ve stropě. V Dark Waters Low se mi dlouho nedaří vymyslet přehození nohou, při kterém se dává pata vysoko nad hlavu, problém vyřeším pobráním malé lišty, a i když už se cítím celkem vyházeně, po pár pokusech zapisuji přelez.
Dark Waters Low V14
Colorado
Následují 2000 km v autě proložené návštěvou Kansas City, St. Louis a Nashvillu, až dorazíme do Tennessee, kde máme v plánu strávit pár dní na místním pískovci. Informace o boulderech jsou dost omezené, nedaří se mi uhnat nikoho z místních, kdo by nás provedl po kamenech, a tak nakonec díky průvodci na internetu vyrážíme do obřího převisu do Daytone Pocket. Proběhnu Flashem Honeycomb V10 a po chvíli variantou za V11, Vapor Lock, krásné kroky po stiscích.
Dayton Pocket
Naštěstí tu potkáváme místní kluky, kteří nám poradí, kde najdeme další bouldery po okolí, a tak razíme na Gross's Roof V13 do Cumberlandu. Po pár nálezech dávám variantu ze stoje za V11, zkouším kroky ze sedu, ale vlhké chyty a teplota jsou proti mně, bohužel další den jsou kameny ještě více pod vodou, předpověď mizerná, a tak se rozhodneme vyměnit deštivé Tennessee za prosluněnou Floridu a tam náš trip končí.
Gross´s Roof V11
Krásný měsíc plnej zážitků!
It's been a long time since Kačka and me started thinking about a trip to USA - we wanted to combine climbing and travelling for as long as possible. So we planned a one-month trip, I chose the projects to climb and after the competition season ended we packed our stuff and flew to California. The trip starts in San Francisco, Los Angeles and Vegas, where there is a hill covered by amazing red sandstone rocks right behind the casinos. Also there is my first project: Meadowlark Lemon V14. Even though the autumn has already begun, the Las Vegas desert is still awfully hot - during the day the temperatures rise far over 30 degrees and the climbing conditions are poor. On the first day we just warm up and then I manage to send an amazing Fear of Black Hat V9 and to somehow imitate climbing the standing version of the Meadowlark Lemon - V13. Then we rest for a day and come back on the following day. We get up with the sun and run to the boulder. I can hold the tiny ledges better than before, so I try the moves and within an hour I finish the boulder. From the climbing point of view it is not that awesome but it looks really cool.
We flee from the desert as fast as we can and head for the Colorado mountains, visiting some national parks of Utah on our way. The temperature is about 20 degrees lower than in Vegas and we can finally breath properly. We spend 10 days in Colorado - climbing every second day and enjoying the countryside, NBA, NHL and visiting the Czech colony of Silverthorn during the rest days. I try very hard to climb the ceiling in RMNP - Paint it Black V15, but even the three days of effort aren't enough. The first few moves are quite easy but then I can't switch the heel for a toe. Well, at least it was a good training.
Between the attempts to climb Paint It Black I finish another cool ceiling in the Clear Creek Canyon - Echale V14. I have tried this one twice when I was at the World Cup in Vail but it was awfully hot then and I couldn't get over the single moves. This time I've got them in few minutes and soon I make a promising attempt ended by a fall from the top. Two hopeless hours follow, I can't get over the first power move and I feel pretty frustrated. So I have a rest day and then I finally finish.
After the lost match with Paint It Black I fix my mood a bit by climbing Bear Toss V13, which is located right next to the cruel boulder with lots of ledges called Hypnotized Minds. On the last climbing day I add another V14 - Dark Waters Low, with big round holds in a ceiling. It takes me a while to find out how to switch legs because the heel must be placed high above the head, but once I deal with this problem, I climb the boulder - even though I'm totally exhausted.
After 2000 km in the car and visiting Kansas City, St. Louis and Nashville we arrive to Tennessee, where we plan to spend several days by climbing on the sandstone. We don't have much information about the boulders and I can't find any local climber who could be our guide, so we find a guide on internet and go to Daytone Pocket. I flash Honeycomb V10 and a bit later I add a V11 version - Vapor Lock. The moves are pretty cool.
Fortunately, we meet some local guys who tell us about other boulders that are nearby, so we head for Gross's Roof V13 to Cumberland. After several attempts I finish the standing V11 version. I also try the start from sitting but the moist holds and temperature play against me. On the next day it gets even worse and the forecast looks bad so we trade the rainy Tennessee for the sunny Florida where we end our trip.
An amazing month full of adventure!
We flee from the desert as fast as we can and head for the Colorado mountains, visiting some national parks of Utah on our way. The temperature is about 20 degrees lower than in Vegas and we can finally breath properly. We spend 10 days in Colorado - climbing every second day and enjoying the countryside, NBA, NHL and visiting the Czech colony of Silverthorn during the rest days. I try very hard to climb the ceiling in RMNP - Paint it Black V15, but even the three days of effort aren't enough. The first few moves are quite easy but then I can't switch the heel for a toe. Well, at least it was a good training.
Between the attempts to climb Paint It Black I finish another cool ceiling in the Clear Creek Canyon - Echale V14. I have tried this one twice when I was at the World Cup in Vail but it was awfully hot then and I couldn't get over the single moves. This time I've got them in few minutes and soon I make a promising attempt ended by a fall from the top. Two hopeless hours follow, I can't get over the first power move and I feel pretty frustrated. So I have a rest day and then I finally finish.
After the lost match with Paint It Black I fix my mood a bit by climbing Bear Toss V13, which is located right next to the cruel boulder with lots of ledges called Hypnotized Minds. On the last climbing day I add another V14 - Dark Waters Low, with big round holds in a ceiling. It takes me a while to find out how to switch legs because the heel must be placed high above the head, but once I deal with this problem, I climb the boulder - even though I'm totally exhausted.
After 2000 km in the car and visiting Kansas City, St. Louis and Nashville we arrive to Tennessee, where we plan to spend several days by climbing on the sandstone. We don't have much information about the boulders and I can't find any local climber who could be our guide, so we find a guide on internet and go to Daytone Pocket. I flash Honeycomb V10 and a bit later I add a V11 version - Vapor Lock. The moves are pretty cool.
Fortunately, we meet some local guys who tell us about other boulders that are nearby, so we head for Gross's Roof V13 to Cumberland. After several attempts I finish the standing V11 version. I also try the start from sitting but the moist holds and temperature play against me. On the next day it gets even worse and the forecast looks bad so we trade the rainy Tennessee for the sunny Florida where we end our trip.
An amazing month full of adventure!
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