Počasí v naší kotlině příliš nepřeje lezení venku, ale je potřeba trochu se vyvětrat a nadýchat se čerstvého vzduchu. V úterý razím na Ostaš. Zbytky sněhu, mlha, žádná paráda. Na Ostaši mám v projektu Nesmrtelného Bonda (Bond + Dnes Neumírej) za cca 8B+, ten je ale bohužel zavlhlý, tak ladím projekt hned napravo od Bonda, super lištovou záležitost odhadem za 8C. Po několikáté návštěvě se mi konečně podaří udělat klíčový krok, nálet z malých bočáků do další, ale už lepší, ostré lišty. Zkouším tedy ladit závěr a pomalu se chystám na ostré pokusy. K těm ale nedojde, protože právě ta lepší lišta se se mnou odporoučí k zemi a rozbije se na několik kousků. Fuck.
Lišta není
V pátek razím do Moravsk0ho krasu omrknout silovou novinku od Adama - Vrtuli 8C/C+. Jeskyňka je trochu zavlhlá, přesto se mi podaří Vrtuli krokovat, záhadou pro mě zůstane jen klíčový krok, který pouze naznačím. Pěkné lezení a respekt Adamovi, je to brutal power.
Vrtule 8C/C+
Dále pokouším Sedni si na Kost 8B+, peklo po mikrochytech, ve kterém jsem nikdy nic nenaznačil. Postupně boulder rozklíčovávám, prsty dostávají zabrat, vše se zdá ok, ale zvednout zadek z matice? Co?? To nejde.
Sedni si na Kost 8B+
Počasí se nelepší, a tak opět s Kačkou razíme do Krasu a mezi sněhovými přeháňkami si dám dvě hodinky prstolamu v Sedni si na Kost, vymyslím pár ulehčení v nálezu do Kostěje, podaří se mi zvednou zadek z matice a plácnout druhý chyt. Strašné peklo. Příště půjde třeba první krok ještě o trošku líp a pak už bude dobrá šance na přelez.
The weather here in this country doesn't seem to be in favour of climbing nowadays, but I need to get some fresh air. So I go to Ostaš on Tuesday. There are bits of snow here and there and it's foggy - nothing to enjoy. I have planned to do Nesmrtelný Bond (Bond + Dnes Neumírej) 8B+, but it's too moist so I switch to the project on its right, a great ledgy climb with grade about 8C. After several attempts in the past I finally get over the crux move from the side-pulls to a sharp ledge. So I start working on the finish and slowly prepare for some serious attempts. These don't happen, though, as the ledge breaks off with me and shatters on the ground. Fuck...
On Friday I go to Moravský kras to check the new power boulder by Adam - Vrtule 8C/C+. The cave is a bit moist but I manage to do the moves anyway, only the crux move remains a mystery to me. Thumbs up for Adam, this is a nice, yet super hard climb.
After that I try Sedni si na Kost 8B+, the boulder with holds so tiny I have never had a chance with it before. Slowly I start to figure it out, the fingers hurt a lot but everything seems ok. Except for me not being able to lift my butt from the mat...
The weather is still bad so I take Kačka to Kras again and between two snowfalls I torture my fingers in Sedni si na Kost for two hours. I come with a few tricks for the beginning of Kostěj, I finally lift my butt from the mat and touch the second hold, but it's a real hell. Next time I hope to improve the first move and then maybe I'll have a good chance to finish.
The weather here in this country doesn't seem to be in favour of climbing nowadays, but I need to get some fresh air. So I go to Ostaš on Tuesday. There are bits of snow here and there and it's foggy - nothing to enjoy. I have planned to do Nesmrtelný Bond (Bond + Dnes Neumírej) 8B+, but it's too moist so I switch to the project on its right, a great ledgy climb with grade about 8C. After several attempts in the past I finally get over the crux move from the side-pulls to a sharp ledge. So I start working on the finish and slowly prepare for some serious attempts. These don't happen, though, as the ledge breaks off with me and shatters on the ground. Fuck...
On Friday I go to Moravský kras to check the new power boulder by Adam - Vrtule 8C/C+. The cave is a bit moist but I manage to do the moves anyway, only the crux move remains a mystery to me. Thumbs up for Adam, this is a nice, yet super hard climb.
After that I try Sedni si na Kost 8B+, the boulder with holds so tiny I have never had a chance with it before. Slowly I start to figure it out, the fingers hurt a lot but everything seems ok. Except for me not being able to lift my butt from the mat...
The weather is still bad so I take Kačka to Kras again and between two snowfalls I torture my fingers in Sedni si na Kost for two hours. I come with a few tricks for the beginning of Kostěj, I finally lift my butt from the mat and touch the second hold, but it's a real hell. Next time I hope to improve the first move and then maybe I'll have a good chance to finish.
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