Na Mezinárodní horolezecký filmový festival razím o něco dříve než obvykle, letos v pozici hosta festivalu. V pátek se trochu zapotím, nejprve v živém vstupu v rádiu a pak během přednášky o mém lezení v kině, trocha nervozity, ale snad se to zlepšuje a začíná mě to i bavit.
Český rozhlas HK
V sobotu klasika závod, kvalda jde dobře, tentokrát je v ní 6 poměrně těžkých boulderů, dávám 5 na 9 pokusů a vyhrávám kvalifikaci. Odpoledne máme se Štěpánem autogramiádu u Singing Rock stánku, následuje procházka skalami a finále.
Kvali by Standa Mitáč
Atmosféra skvělá, bouldery těžké a konečně trocha svěťákového stylu, finále mě hodně baví. V jedničce se dostávám přes skok do zóny, pak volím útok po hraně, rozhodčí nejprve říká, že ji můžu použít, a když spadnu, tak zase že je zakázaná. Pokus v trapu, do zóny se dostávám ještě jednou, ale už dochází čas.
Finále by Standa Mitáč
Dvojka je nejlehčím boulderem finále, dostat se přes spáru a silový krok do Topu, dávám OS. Trojka čistá silovka, daří se mi taky OS.
Finále by Kačka
Čtyřka je kolmáč, lehký úvod a pak koordinační poskok, posílám na druhý pokus. 3 Topy na 4 pokusy stačí bohatě na první místo, tentokrát celkem snadné vítězství. Čtyři letošní vítězství z pěti závodů (jednoho jsem se neúčastnil) mi vyneslo i první místo v celkovém hodnocení Českého poháru v boulderingu.
Stupně vítězů by Standa Mitáč
Večer lehká oslava a ráno s Kačkou frčíme směr Itálie - Lago di Garda, kde následující dva dny strávíme v rámci Scarpa Meetingu. Pěkné prostředí, skvělí lidé, lezení a party.
Scarpa team
Narango - ráno
Další dny zůstáváme v okolí Laga di Garda, nalézám do legendárního Undergroundu za 9a, navštívíme zábavní park Gardaland, Veronu, dáme si koupačku, pizzu, zmrzku i kapučíno. Dobrá nálada a trocha odpočinku po závodní sezóně.
Underground 9a
Verona
Pizza pod skalním masívem- srdcovka
V sobotu přichází déšť. Vedro a vlhko nedává moc šancí na přelez Undergroundu, a tak volím ústup do Frankenjury, kde se mi v neděli ráno daří přelézt ikonický Zerberus 8B.
Zerberus 8B
This year I go to the International Mountaineering Film Festival a bit earlier than usual, and as a guest. I sweat a bit during a live brodacasted interview in radio and then at the lecture about my climbing in the cinema. I'm a bit nervous, but I guess it's gradually getting better and I'm even starting to enjoy it.
On Saturday I take part in a competition as usual. The qualification goes well, we have 6 quite difficult boulders, I climb five of them in nine attempts and win the qualification. In the afternoon Štěpán and me are giving autographs at the Singing Rock stall, after that we take a walk in the rocks and then there is the final.
The vibe is great, the boulders pretty tough. Finally there is a competition done in a bit of a World Cup fashion, I enjoy the final a lot. At the first boulder I jump to the zone and then I decide to attack the top via an edge. At first the judge tells me that I can do so, but after I fall he changes his mind and says this isn't allowed - so I'm one attempt shorter. I reach the zone once again but I run out of time.
Number two is the easiest boulder in the final, a crack and a power move to the top, I do it OS. And the third boulder is a pure power climb and I climb it OS, as well.
The fourth boulder is a vertical with a coordination jump and I send it at the second attempt. Three tops in four attempts are enough for a safe win, it was quite easy this time. The fourth win out of the five competitions made me win the overall classification of this year's Czech Cup in Bouldering, too.
In the evening we have a small celebration and in the morning Kačka and me leave for Italy - Lago di Garda, to be specific - where we are going to spend the next two days at the Scarpa Meeting event. The setting is very nice and so are the people, the climbing and the parties.
For the following few days we stay near Lago di Garda and I start climbing the legendary Underground 9A, we visit the Gardaland fun park, and Verona, we have a swim, a pizza, ice-cream and cappuccino. We have lots of fun and it is a nice break after the competition season.
On Saturday a rain comes and the hot moist weather doesn't give me much hope for climbing Underground, so we retreat to Frankenjura where I climb an inconic Zerberus 8B on Sunday morning.
On Saturday I take part in a competition as usual. The qualification goes well, we have 6 quite difficult boulders, I climb five of them in nine attempts and win the qualification. In the afternoon Štěpán and me are giving autographs at the Singing Rock stall, after that we take a walk in the rocks and then there is the final.
The vibe is great, the boulders pretty tough. Finally there is a competition done in a bit of a World Cup fashion, I enjoy the final a lot. At the first boulder I jump to the zone and then I decide to attack the top via an edge. At first the judge tells me that I can do so, but after I fall he changes his mind and says this isn't allowed - so I'm one attempt shorter. I reach the zone once again but I run out of time.
Number two is the easiest boulder in the final, a crack and a power move to the top, I do it OS. And the third boulder is a pure power climb and I climb it OS, as well.
The fourth boulder is a vertical with a coordination jump and I send it at the second attempt. Three tops in four attempts are enough for a safe win, it was quite easy this time. The fourth win out of the five competitions made me win the overall classification of this year's Czech Cup in Bouldering, too.
In the evening we have a small celebration and in the morning Kačka and me leave for Italy - Lago di Garda, to be specific - where we are going to spend the next two days at the Scarpa Meeting event. The setting is very nice and so are the people, the climbing and the parties.
For the following few days we stay near Lago di Garda and I start climbing the legendary Underground 9A, we visit the Gardaland fun park, and Verona, we have a swim, a pizza, ice-cream and cappuccino. We have lots of fun and it is a nice break after the competition season.
On Saturday a rain comes and the hot moist weather doesn't give me much hope for climbing Underground, so we retreat to Frankenjura where I climb an inconic Zerberus 8B on Sunday morning.
1 komentář:
Dobře Martine, jsi borec! Trocha štěstí možná letos ve svěťáku chyběla.
Jestli tě to potěší, tak podle nějakého výzkumu se veřejného projevu bojí víc lidí, než smrti :)
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