Světový pohár 2017 se roztočil ve švýcarském Meiringenu. Krásné prostředí, krásné vzpomínky na loňské 2. místo, nejlepší lezci na světě... Je krásné být zase součástí kolotoče světového poháru.
Razíme ve čtvrtek brzy ráno, českou vlajku drží jen mužská část: Honzové Chvála a Jeliga, brácha a já. Dohled nad výsledky, foto a report dělá Kačka. Po registraci následuje slavnostní zahájení, v jehož rámci závodníci dobrovolně vyjadřují protest vůči zpoplatnění live streamingu semifinálového a finálového kola závodů IFSC, pěkné gesto. Celkem se sjelo 115 závodníků, bouldering roste.
Červená karta zpoplatnění live streamu
Do kvalifikace nastupuji jako čtvrtý, na rozlezu se necítím příliš dobře, ale během kvaldy to tak špatné není, třemi převislými profily procházím rychle, kolmáč mě drtí a až posledním pokusem zkouším jinou betu a dávám tři vteřiny před vypršením časového limitu, štestí. Matle nejde, a tak se zápisem 4b14p obsazuji 7. místo ve skupině - super, další semifinále je doma! Z kluků se nejvíce daří Honzovi Chválovi, který dává dva topy a končí na 67. místě, Štěpán obsazuje 89. flek a Honza Jeliga je 97. Kvalita závodníků je čím dál větší, hlavně nad Japonci kroutíme hlavou - v první třicítce je devět Japonců.
Kvali 1
Kvali 2
Kvali 3
Kvali 4
Kvali 5
Odpoledne koukneme na holky, mají úžasné bouldery, a tak se těším, co nám přichystají na semifinále. Ráno před semifinále se cítím skvěle, kvalda moc sil neubrala. Jenže je to jiná písnička, hodně balancování na strukturách, těžké nohy, a to mi vůbec nevyhovuje. V jedničce se mi řádně nedaří nastoupit na strukturu a pak se mi těžko dělá následující skok, ani jednou ho neudělám. Ve dvojce se cítím nejlépe, silové lezení, prohození jak v King Kongovi, stopku mi vystavuje až kráter, ze kterého se skáče do Topu. Trojka je o ustání ukloněných struktur, nedaří se mi správně je zatížit a noha se vždy smekne, na víc než na zónu to nestačí. V posledním boulderu se mi daří přejít přes silový úvod, zóna, dead move je pro mě v tomto případě zvednutí nohy k hlavě. Celkem tedy 3 zóny na 7 pokusů a celkové 17. místo.
Semi 2 by Yanne Golev
Semi 2
Semi 3
Semi 4
Teď týden doma a vzhůru do Asie, kde budou svěťáky v následujícím gardu 22 - 23.4 - Chongquing, 29 - 30.4. Nanjing a 6 - 7.5. Tokyo, motivace je veliká, tak uvidíme co Asie přinese.
The World Cup 2017 started in Meiringen, Switzerland. An amazing environment, great memories of my last year's second place, the best climbers of the world... It's good to be part of all this.
We come on Thursday, only the male part of the team are holding the flag - both Honzas (Chvála and Jeliga), my brother and me. Kačka is in charge of the records, photo taking and also she watches over the results. After the registration there is a World Cup opening ceremony, during which the competitors voluntarily protest against charging the live streaming of the semifinal and final of the competition by ISFC. A nice gesture, I think. Overall there are 115 participants. Bouldering is growing fast.
I'm the fourth to enter the qualification and during the warm up I don't feel very good, but the qualification itself isn't that bad. I get over three overhangs quickly, the vertical gives me a hard time, though, and I climb it at the very last attempt, three seconds before running out of time. Lucky me. I am seventh in the group, with 4b14p, so it's another semifinal for me! The second most successful Czech climber is Honza Chvála with two tops and 67th place, Štěpán is 89th and Honza Jeliga 97th, the qualities of our rivals increase, the most we are impressed by the Japanese - there are 9 Japanese people among the 30 best climbers.
In the afternoon we check on the girls. Their boulders are super cool and I'm really looking forward to ours. In the morning before the semifinal I feel great, not much tired by the qualification. However, the semifinal is a completely different story - a lot of balancing on the structures, difficult legs and it really doesn't suit me. At the first boulder I can't get on the structure properly so I can't do the jump that follows, not even once. The second boulder is my best - power climbing, a King-Kong-like switch... I'm unstoppable until the big hole under the top comes. The third boulder requires holding on to the slated structures, I keep slipping, unable to spread my weight right. Just a zone for me. And the last boulder... I get over the power start and reach the zone but then I need to lift my leg over my head and that's the dead move. Overall I have 3 zones in 7 attempts and 17th place.
Now I'll spend a week at home before the World Cups taking place in Asia:22 - 23th April - Chongquing, 29 -30th April Nanjing and 6-7th May - Tokyo, I'm really motivated, let's see what happens.
The World Cup 2017 started in Meiringen, Switzerland. An amazing environment, great memories of my last year's second place, the best climbers of the world... It's good to be part of all this.
We come on Thursday, only the male part of the team are holding the flag - both Honzas (Chvála and Jeliga), my brother and me. Kačka is in charge of the records, photo taking and also she watches over the results. After the registration there is a World Cup opening ceremony, during which the competitors voluntarily protest against charging the live streaming of the semifinal and final of the competition by ISFC. A nice gesture, I think. Overall there are 115 participants. Bouldering is growing fast.
I'm the fourth to enter the qualification and during the warm up I don't feel very good, but the qualification itself isn't that bad. I get over three overhangs quickly, the vertical gives me a hard time, though, and I climb it at the very last attempt, three seconds before running out of time. Lucky me. I am seventh in the group, with 4b14p, so it's another semifinal for me! The second most successful Czech climber is Honza Chvála with two tops and 67th place, Štěpán is 89th and Honza Jeliga 97th, the qualities of our rivals increase, the most we are impressed by the Japanese - there are 9 Japanese people among the 30 best climbers.
In the afternoon we check on the girls. Their boulders are super cool and I'm really looking forward to ours. In the morning before the semifinal I feel great, not much tired by the qualification. However, the semifinal is a completely different story - a lot of balancing on the structures, difficult legs and it really doesn't suit me. At the first boulder I can't get on the structure properly so I can't do the jump that follows, not even once. The second boulder is my best - power climbing, a King-Kong-like switch... I'm unstoppable until the big hole under the top comes. The third boulder requires holding on to the slated structures, I keep slipping, unable to spread my weight right. Just a zone for me. And the last boulder... I get over the power start and reach the zone but then I need to lift my leg over my head and that's the dead move. Overall I have 3 zones in 7 attempts and 17th place.
Now I'll spend a week at home before the World Cups taking place in Asia:22 - 23th April - Chongquing, 29 -30th April Nanjing and 6-7th May - Tokyo, I'm really motivated, let's see what happens.
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