Na den svatého valentýna beru Kačku a razíme na Petrohrad, no pravda, nepřliš romantické místo. V plánu je Black Box 8B. Parkujeme přímo pod sektorem Brána, přijíždí pravděpodobně vlastník lesa a zavírá nám závoru pro cestu zpět. Takže chvilku jezdíme po lese a hledáme kudy ven, trochu rallye, naštěstí hned druhá závora je zvednutá. Jdeme zpátky ke skalám, rozlez na Komářím sídlišti v lehkých mokrých věcech. Pak už jdu na Black Boxe, naštěstí jen jeden mokrej chyt, kterej jde dobře vysušit a už drtím petroradskou žulu. Dlouho mi trvá než celý boulder zkrokuju, po hodince dávám osrý pokusy a 4x padám v "poslednm" kroku, pak už jenom 6B nahoru. Nejistý krok vymýšlím trochu lépe, zabrat za stisk, jeden krok navíc, ale lehčí. další tři pokusy a jsem nahoře, právě když už se začíná stmívat.
Black Box 8B
Večer klasika pizza u Gabbi. Druhý den razíme do sektoru Vyhlídková skála. Rozlézáme se okolo Froda Nakole, Kačka z petrohradských řezavých lišt moc nadšená není, no kdo by byl. Pak se přesouváme pod Amulet vzdušné 8A, které jsem si rozdělal minule. Nahoru dolézám hned a několikrát spadnu v dlouhým nátahu pravou rukou do dobré obliny, jednou se nechám unést silou pokusu, nedám si pozor a padám na skálu za zády, naštěstí celkem v pohodě. Pak mi kačka pro jistotu drží matici na skále, přestávám se bát zabrat a jsem nahoře.
Amulet 8A
Dál jdeme k Eso Rimmerovi prý lehké 8B. Jsme rád že odlepím zadek od země, ale nabrání spoďáčků mě přijde úlet, už není moc síly, prsty začínají naříkat, čas na odjezd.
On the St. Valentine's Day, I take Kačka to Petrohrad, well, not romantic a place. The plan is Black Box 8B. We park our car right under the Brana sector, but then probably the owner of the forest comes and drops the boom gate so we cannot get back. so we drive in the forest for a while, looking where to get out. A bit of a rallye but fortunately right the second boom gate is raised. We go back to the rocks, warm up at Komari sidliste in easy moist stuff. Then I go for Black Box, fortunately only one moist hold, which can be dried easily, and here I come crashing PEtrohrad granite. It takes me some time to plan the steps, after an hour I have some attempts and 4 times I fall down in the "last" steps, then only 6B up. I make a better plan for the uncertain step, press the hold, one additional step but easier one. Three more attempts and I am on the top, just when it starts getting dark.
In the evening a classical pizza at Gabbi's. The following day we are of to the Vyhlidkova skala sector. We warm up around Frodo nakole, Kačka is not very fond of the cut crimps, who would be. Then we move to Amulet 8A, which I started last time,. I make it to the top right away and fall several times in a long reach with my right hand to a nice curve, once I don't pay attention and fall on the rock behind my back, fortunately quite allright. Then Kačka hold a matress on the rock for me to be sure, I overcome my fear to use my strength and I am on the top.
Then we move on to Eso Rimmer, allegedly an easy 8B. I am happy to raise my bum from the ground, but taking the low ones seems crazy to me, no much power is left, fingers start complaining, time to go.
On the St. Valentine's Day, I take Kačka to Petrohrad, well, not romantic a place. The plan is Black Box 8B. We park our car right under the Brana sector, but then probably the owner of the forest comes and drops the boom gate so we cannot get back. so we drive in the forest for a while, looking where to get out. A bit of a rallye but fortunately right the second boom gate is raised. We go back to the rocks, warm up at Komari sidliste in easy moist stuff. Then I go for Black Box, fortunately only one moist hold, which can be dried easily, and here I come crashing PEtrohrad granite. It takes me some time to plan the steps, after an hour I have some attempts and 4 times I fall down in the "last" steps, then only 6B up. I make a better plan for the uncertain step, press the hold, one additional step but easier one. Three more attempts and I am on the top, just when it starts getting dark.
In the evening a classical pizza at Gabbi's. The following day we are of to the Vyhlidkova skala sector. We warm up around Frodo nakole, Kačka is not very fond of the cut crimps, who would be. Then we move to Amulet 8A, which I started last time,. I make it to the top right away and fall several times in a long reach with my right hand to a nice curve, once I don't pay attention and fall on the rock behind my back, fortunately quite allright. Then Kačka hold a matress on the rock for me to be sure, I overcome my fear to use my strength and I am on the top.
Then we move on to Eso Rimmer, allegedly an easy 8B. I am happy to raise my bum from the ground, but taking the low ones seems crazy to me, no much power is left, fingers start complaining, time to go.
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