Včera se konala jedna z největších akcí letošního roku a to Adidas Outdoor Prague. Pro nás lezce to závodníky to znamenalo závody v boulderingu popřípadně obtížnosti, dál se tu konaly exbice na slacklině, waterlině, dalo se zalézt na ledové stěně, zajet si na raftu...velká akce. Já jsem se rozhodl startovat v obou disciplínách. Nejdříve tedy kvalifikace na obtížnost, cestu za 8+/9- se mi daří vylézt na OS, v cestě za 9+ mi nahoře uklouzne noha a to mi vynese 2-3. postupové místo. Celkově stěna měří asi 10 metrů a převislost je 1-2m, takže lezení anebo spíš boulderování po lištách. Následuje kvalda v bouldrech, tam se mi daří vylézt 4b na 6p a do finále jdu z 2. místa.
Finále v boulderingu se odehrává v příjemnej atmosféře a to především díky skvělým komentátorům. Nejdříve lezou baby, tam suverénně vítězí Melisa LaNéve z Francie, jediná, kdo jí trošku sekunduje je Peťa Růžičková. Finále se lezlo svěťákovým stylem, takže nápor na nervy, ale dobrá zkušenost. První boulder kolmáč, dvakrát padám z topu, třetím pokusem dávám už po limitu a hodně si oddychuju. Povinnost splněna. Dvojka zabrat za lištu a udržet oblinu, dávám druhým pokusem. Trojka a čtyřka už jsou trochu v převisu a oba bouldery topuju na první pokus. Celkově kluci odvedli skvělou práci, teď se každým závodem víc a víc těším na to, co nám Vilda a spol připraví, baví mě to. Výkon mě vynesl na první místo, druhej skončil Štěpán a třetí Kuba Hlaváček.
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Stupně vítězů
Hned po dolezení finále v boulderingu se uzavírá izolace na obtížnost. Cesta na vlastnosti stěny povedená, ale mě osobně cesta moc nebavila, lezení po malých chytech, špatný nohy...hned několik lezců spadlo kvůli uklouznutí. Mě se podařilo dolézt k předposlední expresce, tady vyhodnocuji, že bude snažší to ošulit přes pravou hranu a cestu Topuji. Cestu topoje také Peťa Čermák, který díky lepší kvalifikaci vítězí. Ja končím na druhém místě, třetí Honza Jeliga.
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Stupně vítězů
Celkově akci hodnotím hodně hodně vysoko, co se týká boulderingu tak pro mě zatím nejlepší závod v ČR, kterého jsem se účastnil, obtížnost už byla a to především kvůli parametrům stěny o dost slabší. Díky Adidas!
With great commentators, the bouldering finals were taking place in a friendly atmosphere. Women rounds were the first. Melisa LaNéve from France won with a great confidence. The only woman coming close was our Peťa Růžičková. The finals were done Svěťák-style which was quite nerve-racking, but also a good experience. No 1 was a demanding vertical thing (two falls from the top and the third attempt after the limit). The requirements were met, though. No 2 needed a pull up on the edge and grasping a bulge (done at the 2nd attempt). No 3 & 4 are already a little overhung. I sent both of them at the first. Overall, the guys did a great job. I am more and more excited with every competition about the boulders prepared by Vilda and his company. I love that! My performance brought me up to the first place. Štěpán ended up the second, Kuba Hlaváček the third.
Right after the finals, the difficulty competition was concluded. The wall was pretty crafty but I myself didn't enjoyed the line that much: The holds were too small, the feet were bad... A few climbers fell off because they slipped off. I did quite well up to the penultimate phase where I found out that it could be actually simpler to use the right edge. I was successful and so was Peťa Čermák who finally won due to having better qualification results. I was the second, Honza Jeliga the third.
Overall, I find the event very good. The best race so far in terms of boulder quality I have taken part in. The difficulty was evidently lower, mainly because of the wall parameters. Thank you, Adidas!
Adidas Outdoor
One of the biggest event took place yesterday: Adidas Outdoor Prague. We the climbers enjoyed the races of various difficulty as well as exhibition climb-ups on a slack line, water line, and an iced wall, one also could try rafting etc. What an event. I decided to compete in both disciplines. At first, there were qualifications focused on difficulty. I managed to flash a line of 8+ to 9. I then failed another line (9+) because my foot slipped off on the top. Overall, good enough for 2nd / 3rd qualification position. The height of the wall in total was about 10 metres, the overhang was about 1 to 2 metres so the edges were prominent. The next phase was boulder qualification round: I managed to do a 4b on 6p. As a result, I was going to the finals from the 2nd place.With great commentators, the bouldering finals were taking place in a friendly atmosphere. Women rounds were the first. Melisa LaNéve from France won with a great confidence. The only woman coming close was our Peťa Růžičková. The finals were done Svěťák-style which was quite nerve-racking, but also a good experience. No 1 was a demanding vertical thing (two falls from the top and the third attempt after the limit). The requirements were met, though. No 2 needed a pull up on the edge and grasping a bulge (done at the 2nd attempt). No 3 & 4 are already a little overhung. I sent both of them at the first. Overall, the guys did a great job. I am more and more excited with every competition about the boulders prepared by Vilda and his company. I love that! My performance brought me up to the first place. Štěpán ended up the second, Kuba Hlaváček the third.
Right after the finals, the difficulty competition was concluded. The wall was pretty crafty but I myself didn't enjoyed the line that much: The holds were too small, the feet were bad... A few climbers fell off because they slipped off. I did quite well up to the penultimate phase where I found out that it could be actually simpler to use the right edge. I was successful and so was Peťa Čermák who finally won due to having better qualification results. I was the second, Honza Jeliga the third.
Overall, I find the event very good. The best race so far in terms of boulder quality I have taken part in. The difficulty was evidently lower, mainly because of the wall parameters. Thank you, Adidas!
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