Původní plán zajet na Hirschwand pod Vídeň padá kvůli počasí, a tak razíme s Kačkou znovu na Ostaš. Po příjezdu nás překvapí narvaný parkoviště, místní neváhají a už se za parkovný vybírá a prý i za spaní. My razíme rovnou do sektoru E a jdeme vrchem okolo labyrintu. Je to asi nejlepší cesta, pokud se jde až do zadního sektoru. U Frýdlantské vyhlídku dolů a jste přímo u PilzerZane, Broskve atd. Začínáme na Broskvy, já lezu Hru Na Broskev 7A, Broskvovou Hrna 7A a na druhý pokus posílám Zahran(n)ou Broskev 7B s vypečeným výlezem. Kačka zkouší Broskvoň, ta ale nepouští. Dál jdeme k PilzerZane, kde čeká projekt - levá hrana. I přes trochu zeleniny hranu dávám a následně i prodloužení. Klasu Jenda odhadl docela dobře - hrana The Next Trillion vidím za 7B a prodloužení Ještě Není Konec Všem Trillionům 7B+/C. JE to pěkný lezení po dobrých chytech a na závěr těžký nabrání malého spoďáčku.
Ještě Není Konec Všem Trillionům 7B+/C
Pak s kačkou čistíme novej spíš kamínek než kámen, kde KAčka vylézá další novinku a to Monte Bú 5C/6A.
Monte Bú 5C/6A
MEzitím dochází Fox s If a ukazujeme pár docela pěkných projektů. Po MOnte Bú jdeme k Velkýmu Střecháči, kde kačka zkouší další ze svých projektů, ten však nedává a jdeme k Vesmíru na můj cíl V-Ray 8A+. Bohužel je začátek jako vždy dost vlhký/mokrý, do zbytku zase svítí sluníčko, podmínka nic moc. Zkusím kroky, a druhým je to doma. Klasu bych viděl spíš na 8A/A+ a za sucha asi klidně i jen 8A.
V-Ray 8A/A+
Po cestě k autu se zastavím ještě na pěkným vysokým Heroinu za 7B a jedeme dom.
The original plan - visiting Hirschwand near Vienna - failed due to bad weather conditions. That's why Kačka and I decided for Ostaš instead. Upon arrival, we were surprised how packed the parking area was. The locals did not hesitate to collect money for everything, even sleeping. We went immediately to Sector E and chose the upper way around the labyrinth. It's probably the best way to go one wants to go to the rear sector. Then you turn left at Frýdlantská and you find yourself just next to PilzerZane, Broskev, etc. Broskev was the first thing we did - I started with Broskev 7A and sent a canny thing called Zahran(n)á Broskev (7B) at my 2nd attempt. Kačka tried Broskvoň but did not finish it. The next thing was a project (left edge) at PilzerZane. Despite some initial trouble, I sent the edge and then the extended version as well. Jenda did a fine job estimating the class: Next Trillion could be around 7B, the extension then 7B+/7C. It features pleasant climbing, good holds, and a great finale with a small undercling.
Then we were cleaning another very small piece of rock. Kačka climbed up a novelty - Monte Bú (5C/6A).
Meanwhile, Fox and If arrived and we explored a couple of quite neat projects - Monte Bú, Velký Střecháč, and my favourite V-Ray (8A+). As usual, the start was unfortunately too moist. Then, on the other hand, the annoying sunshine again. Overall not great conditions. On my 2nd attempt, though, I sent it. I found the class rather 8A(+), with 8A more probable in dry conditions.
Ostaš revisited
The original plan - visiting Hirschwand near Vienna - failed due to bad weather conditions. That's why Kačka and I decided for Ostaš instead. Upon arrival, we were surprised how packed the parking area was. The locals did not hesitate to collect money for everything, even sleeping. We went immediately to Sector E and chose the upper way around the labyrinth. It's probably the best way to go one wants to go to the rear sector. Then you turn left at Frýdlantská and you find yourself just next to PilzerZane, Broskev, etc. Broskev was the first thing we did - I started with Broskev 7A and sent a canny thing called Zahran(n)á Broskev (7B) at my 2nd attempt. Kačka tried Broskvoň but did not finish it. The next thing was a project (left edge) at PilzerZane. Despite some initial trouble, I sent the edge and then the extended version as well. Jenda did a fine job estimating the class: Next Trillion could be around 7B, the extension then 7B+/7C. It features pleasant climbing, good holds, and a great finale with a small undercling.
Then we were cleaning another very small piece of rock. Kačka climbed up a novelty - Monte Bú (5C/6A).
Meanwhile, Fox and If arrived and we explored a couple of quite neat projects - Monte Bú, Velký Střecháč, and my favourite V-Ray (8A+). As usual, the start was unfortunately too moist. Then, on the other hand, the annoying sunshine again. Overall not great conditions. On my 2nd attempt, though, I sent it. I found the class rather 8A(+), with 8A more probable in dry conditions.
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