V sobotu ráno mi přichází SMS od tajného informátora na Ostaši "Je sucho a relativně zima". TO zní dobře a tak odpoledne razíme na Bor, kde čeká projekt a na něho je třeba aspoň trochu chládek. Po čtvrté jsme na kopci, čekám na večer tak leze Kačka své projekty.
Tamarín Vousatý 6A
Pak jdeme k Mistrovi Šach Pata, na kterém se rozlezu a dále zkouším vedlejší Žwirek 7B. Dlouho trvá než přestanou chyty alespoň trochu solit, pak to pouští. A už jdeme na projekt. Chládek je znát a v prvním kroku se cítím opět o něco líp než minule. Nicméně další dvě hodiny se mi první krok nedaří kroknout, jediný co se daří tak si rozsekat bříška na levé ruce z nástupovýho spoďáku, kterým se "házíte" doleva na hranu. Hrana docela drží a tak si v průběhu zkoušení prvního kroku konečně kroknu i druhý krok. Celkově se projekt skládá ze dvou kroků, první cca 8A+ (trochu morfo) a druhý cca 7C, pak už lehkej dolez. Co je super, tak k tomu půjde přidat i SD, což jsou další dva kroky za nějakých 7C.
Merkin 8A+/B?
Cestou k autu se zastavíme ještě na velkým projektu Kačky Lovecký Sezóně, kde má taky progres, ale na přelez to pořád nestačilo. Prsty jsou na kaši, druhý den by to na slušný pokusy v projektu nebylo a tak jedeme dom a trénovat.
Příští víkend sever, kdo jede taky?
Then we went for Mistr Šach Pata - I used it for warming up before nearby Žwirek (7B). It took a while before the holds were somewhat ready, then I sent it. And then the project time. The coldness helped a lot - already on the first move, I felt better than last time. Next two hours, nevertheless, I did not know how to do he start. I only "managed" to hurt my fingers on my left hand. The edge was sturdy enough to allow me to try the second move as well. Overall, the project consists of two moves, the first of about 8A+ (slightly morpho) and the second maybe 7C, then a light finish. You may also add a SD, thereby adding other two moves for about 7C, which is great.
We also visited Kačka's big project called Lovecká sezóna on the way back- She showed considerable progress - but not enough for finishing. With our fingers totaled, the other day was not particularly great for strong attempts on the project. So we went home to train a little.
We re going north next week - anyone else for that?
Bor: a big small project
I received a message from my secret informer on Saturday morning: "Ostaš dry and relatively cold." Sounds good. We went there in the afternoon to do a project where one needs at least a little cold conditions. We arrived after 4 o'clock and waited for the evening. Kačka occupied herself with her projects.Then we went for Mistr Šach Pata - I used it for warming up before nearby Žwirek (7B). It took a while before the holds were somewhat ready, then I sent it. And then the project time. The coldness helped a lot - already on the first move, I felt better than last time. Next two hours, nevertheless, I did not know how to do he start. I only "managed" to hurt my fingers on my left hand. The edge was sturdy enough to allow me to try the second move as well. Overall, the project consists of two moves, the first of about 8A+ (slightly morpho) and the second maybe 7C, then a light finish. You may also add a SD, thereby adding other two moves for about 7C, which is great.
We also visited Kačka's big project called Lovecká sezóna on the way back- She showed considerable progress - but not enough for finishing. With our fingers totaled, the other day was not particularly great for strong attempts on the project. So we went home to train a little.
We re going north next week - anyone else for that?
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