Tak takovej byl teďka Bor, kotník se dá snad rychle do kupy, protože už v soboru vyrážím s Káťou na náš Euro trip:) Psyche is High, jak na skály tak na MS!
Jo a PS - berte si sebou na Bor repelent!!!
Yesterday I didn’t resist any more and “had to” go to Bor. I set off late afternoon and arrived around 7 o'clock. I have a warm-up on Arsen 7A+. An interesting one-step boulder. then I go on on Rock Machov 7A, one of the most beautiful 7A at Bor. I send it at the second attempt. It’s still quite warm, so I go for a project at Kočka first. What seemed to be easy was difficult and vice versa. There are some problems with the backside; kicking the leg up is not a big problem but the step to the top has to be tried at least once. And a typical dilemma – 7C or more? It is still quite warm, co I don't know, maybe more, so Pixiebob 7C+. I hurry to a great power project at Včelka. I am refining the steps and I find out the key step has to be jumped from the lower leg. I wait for the sun to set and have some attempts with breaks. I make the first step once every two attempts and later every three or four. But when I get to the crimp, I feel stronger and stronger and at twilight I finally keep the hold of the landing edge and it's there. In the end it didn't require that much effort as I had supposed; anyways this fits me well so I hope for an 8B. At the end I stop at Trubečkový pozdrav 7A but I don't manage so I leave it for the next day. It’s getting dark, so I run at times not to walk at night and suddenly a crunch in my ankle like if a branch broke. Well I can walk, it’s a bit worse and more painful in the morning but I can walk. Anyways I left the mat at Trubeček, so I have to go up the hill. And when I was at Trubeček, I had to climb it. My ankle doesn’t hurt when I’m climbing, so I decide to try something else. I go on to a nice boulder some 100 m behind Včelka. We saw it earlier so I decided to clean it and climb it. But someone has already been there. Done after three attempts, perhaps a 7A+. I wanted to try H2O today but I’m not into it with that ankle, so I try a project next to Šikmá věž and Naplivu na vaše hroby. No way to make Šikmá věž, hat off to Šváchič who almost managed to climb it. In Hrob I make up a few new programs to get over the key place but none lets me through; I think it might be an 8B+. Finally, I go to Mucholapka, I try the project from the left side, hold the small crimp, lift my backside but that's about it. Too far to the next hold. I look at line that caught the eye of Felipe Camargo, I am trying it for a while and manage at the fourth attempt; maybe 7C. The boulder starts at Moucha na skle and from the upper hole it goes straight left, then you have to weight in to the crimp and stop your body with your shoulder and then up Mentálně narušená moucha.
So this is what Bor was these days, hopefully my ankle will be fine soon, because on Saturday me and Káťa are off to our Euro trip :) Psyche is high, for rocks as for the world championship.