Nejvýznamnější akce letošního roku – mistrovství světa, čtrnáctidenní závod, generálka na olympiádu se letos konala na okraji Tokia v Hachioji. Dorážíme dva dny před závodem, stihneme jeden trénink na dokonalé bouldrovce B-Pump Ogikubo, boj s jet lagem, vedrem a vlhkem, trochu sushi a už se závodí.
B Pump Ogikubo
V kvalifikaci boulderingu se cítím špatně, hodinky v těle se mi ještě nesrovnaly s místním časem a lezu unavený, v technických a koordinačních boulderech nevybojuji ani jeden Top a končím na 57. místě.
Kvalifikační stěna
Druhý boulder - pád pod topem
Výsledek je trochu zklamáním, ale lépe to nešlo, pozitivně beru jen to, že budu ready na lead. Na kvalifikaci v obtížnosti se již cítím ready, cesty jsou poměrně těžké a málo se topuje. V první cestě trochu chybuji a dá mi to 23. místo ve skupině. Vím, že musím zabrat ve druhé cestě, a to se daří, dolézám ke konci a plácám Top, což mi vynáší 7. místo ve skupině a pohodový postup do semifinále ze 14. pozice.
První kvalda
14. pozice do semifinále mi dodává sebevědomí, lehká nevýhoda je jen v tom, že jsem posledním závodníkem před čištěním cesty a při lezení je to trochu znát. V semifinále dělám při postupu cestou několik malých chyb, dolézám na hranu převisu, kde padá vícero závodníků, a díky dobré kvalifikaci nakonec končím na velmi dobrém 15. místě, tři kroky od postupu do finále.
Semifinále lead
Semifinále lead
Obtížností pro mě víceméně závod končí, na kombinační dvacítku to nedá, takže zbývá jen závod na rychlost, cestu na rychlost ještě zdaleka nemám zautomatizovanou, tréninku bylo pár. Poprvé se dostávám pod 10s a končím na 85. místě.
Kvalifikace rychlost
Zbytek pobytu na šampionátu trávím tréninkem na místních bouldrovkách (ty jsou tady na jiném levelu než u nás, jak co do obtížnosti, tak co do propracovanosti boulderů), poznáváním japonské kultury, sushi pomalu přestává chutnat, ale atmosféra šampionátu chutnat nepřestane, byť má pro náš team, respektive pro Adama, hořkou tečku.
Japan
The most significant climbing event of this year, the World Championship – a 14-day competition and the rehearsal for the Olympic games – took place on the outskirts of Tokyo in Hachioji. We arrive two days before the competition and have a training session at the awesome B-Pump Ogikubo gym. We struggle a bit with jet lag and hot and moist weather, and after some sushi it's the competition time.
I don't feel very well during the qualification, my inner clock still need some time to adapt to the local time and I'm pretty tired. I don't reach the top of any of the technical and coordination boulders and end up 57th.
I'm a bit disappointed about my score but this was the best I could do. At least I'll be fresh for the lead climbing. During the qualficiation in climbing for difficulty I feel ready, the routes are quite tough and there aren't many finishers. I make some mistakes in the first route and earn the 23th place in the group. I know I have to make more effort with the second route and I get to the top so in the end I'm 7th in my group and 14th in total and I pass to the semifinal.
The 14th place is pretty good and it gives me confidence for the final. The only flaw is that I'm the last climber on the route before its cleaning and it makes a bit of difference during climbing. I make several little mistakes and reach the edge of the overhang, where many competitors fall, too. Thanks to the good result of the qualification I am 15th, three moves away from the final.
After this competition I'm done here, I can only try the competition in climbing for speed, for which I didn't have enough training. For the first time I need less than 10 seconds to finish the route and I earn the 85th place.
I then spend the rest of the stay training in the local gyms (which are on a totally different level as for their difficulty and complexity) and getting to know the Japanese culture. Sushi doesn't feel as awesome as before, but the atmosphere is still pretty amazing, even though it's a bit bitter-sweet for our team and for Adam in particular.
I don't feel very well during the qualification, my inner clock still need some time to adapt to the local time and I'm pretty tired. I don't reach the top of any of the technical and coordination boulders and end up 57th.
I'm a bit disappointed about my score but this was the best I could do. At least I'll be fresh for the lead climbing. During the qualficiation in climbing for difficulty I feel ready, the routes are quite tough and there aren't many finishers. I make some mistakes in the first route and earn the 23th place in the group. I know I have to make more effort with the second route and I get to the top so in the end I'm 7th in my group and 14th in total and I pass to the semifinal.
The 14th place is pretty good and it gives me confidence for the final. The only flaw is that I'm the last climber on the route before its cleaning and it makes a bit of difference during climbing. I make several little mistakes and reach the edge of the overhang, where many competitors fall, too. Thanks to the good result of the qualification I am 15th, three moves away from the final.
After this competition I'm done here, I can only try the competition in climbing for speed, for which I didn't have enough training. For the first time I need less than 10 seconds to finish the route and I earn the 85th place.
I then spend the rest of the stay training in the local gyms (which are on a totally different level as for their difficulty and complexity) and getting to know the Japanese culture. Sushi doesn't feel as awesome as before, but the atmosphere is still pretty amazing, even though it's a bit bitter-sweet for our team and for Adam in particular.
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