Svěťák v Meiringenu je tady, konečně. Zima byla dlouhá, tréninkových dávek bylo více než jindy, cítím se dobře. Razíme klasicky ve čvrtek ráno a v podvečer už nasáváme atmosféru světového závodu. Kam se podíváme, tam je zvučné jméno, 8Céčkař nebo borec co dělá shyby na jedné ruce a 6mm liště. V kvalifikaci nastupuji jako 17. v pořadí a hned v úvodní plotně dostanu tvrdej direkt, nejsem schopný vybaletit na strukturu, nebo vymyslet schůdnější program, takže 5 minut zmaru.
Kvali 1
Dvojka je koordinační skok za hranu a pak si pohlídat krok do topu, pár pokusů mi trvá, než správně sladím tělo a udržím vrata, pak ještě jednou spadnu v kroku do topu, nakonec je ale top můj.
Kvali 2
Trojka je zase koordinace, skok a pak pomalu do Topu, podobně jako ve dvojce dám pár pokusů, než vše správně trefím, a jednou spadnu z topu, ale i tady Top ubojuji.
Kvali 3
Čtyřka je silovka, to by mi mohlo sedět, hned jsem v zóně, zóna špatná, ale snažím se přes ni dostat do dalšího chytu, nicméně bylo potřeba se jen přidržet a protáhnout to dál. Škoda, tady jsem to špatně přečetl a top zůstal v dáli.
Kvali 4
Pětka je takový polokout, sice nastoupím naopak, ale i přesto nějak stoupám vzhůru až do topu, asi nejméně lezený boulder, ale mně to tady klaplo hned.
Kvali 5
Celkově mám tedy tři bouldery a 4 zóny, výsledkem bylo 73. místo, na postup bylo zapotřebí 5 topů a k tomu na dobré pokusy, to bylo dneska hodně daleko. Klukům se daří víceméně obdobně, pěkně leze Vojta Trojan, který končí na 85. místě, dále skončili Kuba Konečný na 91., Štěpán na 95. a Kuba Jedlička 105. místě.
Možná nám ujíždí vlak? Konkurence se zvedá, všichni trénují na sto deset procent a velká část startovního pole se věnuje pouze lezení a tréninku, mají dostatek financí na objíždění boulderovek po celém světě a nemusí řešit nic jiného než přípravu na závody, je vidět, že olympiáda se blíží. U nás v ČR je prozatím tento způsob nemyslitelný, člověk se musí živit, podmínky k tréninku se sice zlepšily, ale například tréninkové centrum pro reprezentaci na Smíchově se ani zdaleka neblíží tomu, co se leze ve světě a po čem se tam leze. Dost bylo breku. Moskva tuto sobotu, necháme tam vše!!
The World Cup in Meiringen is finally here! Winter was long and I was training hard so I feel good. As usually we set off on Thursday morning and in the evening we already enjoy the atmosphere of the worldwide competition. Everywhere we look there is someone famous, an 8C finisher or someone who can pull up on one hand at the 6mm ledge. I start the qualification with number 17 and the very first boulder knocks me down - I cannot get through the structure or make up a different programme so I just enjoy my five minutes of hopelessness.
The second boulder is a coordination jump to the edge and then one needs to keep focused on the top move. It takes several attempts until I make the whole body cooperate properly, then I fall once again from the top move and finally I'm there.
Number three is another coordination boulder with jump, very similar to the second one. And my performance is similar, too - several lost attempts an one fall from the top until I finish.
The fourth boulder is a power climb which could suit me, I hope. I reach the zone almost immediately but then I get stuck and can't get any further. Too bad.
The fifth boulder is a kind of a semi-dihedral. I start quite badly but I keep climbing and slowly get to the top. This one seems to be the trickiest boulder of the qualification with the smallest number of finishers but it worked for me.
In total I have 3 boulders and 4 zones and I end up 73rd. I needed 5 tops to pass on, and also less attempts. Well, today I wasn't even close. The other guys' results are similar to mine, Vojta Trojan climbs very good and ends 85th, Kuba Konečný is 91st, Štěpán 95th and Kuba Jedlička 105th.
Maybe we're loosing edge? Our competition is getting bigger, everyone is training for 110% and the majority of the participants doesn't have any other job apart from training and climbing, having enough money to go all over the world to different gyms... one can see that the Olympics is coming soon. Here in the Czech Republic this isn't possible yet, one must get some bread to live on and the training conditions, even though much better than before, just aren't at the same level. For example the training centre at Smíchov can't hold a candle to what people climb on in other countries of the world. Well, enough of crying. This Saturday we'll go to Moscow and we'll give it all we have!
The World Cup in Meiringen is finally here! Winter was long and I was training hard so I feel good. As usually we set off on Thursday morning and in the evening we already enjoy the atmosphere of the worldwide competition. Everywhere we look there is someone famous, an 8C finisher or someone who can pull up on one hand at the 6mm ledge. I start the qualification with number 17 and the very first boulder knocks me down - I cannot get through the structure or make up a different programme so I just enjoy my five minutes of hopelessness.
The second boulder is a coordination jump to the edge and then one needs to keep focused on the top move. It takes several attempts until I make the whole body cooperate properly, then I fall once again from the top move and finally I'm there.
Number three is another coordination boulder with jump, very similar to the second one. And my performance is similar, too - several lost attempts an one fall from the top until I finish.
The fourth boulder is a power climb which could suit me, I hope. I reach the zone almost immediately but then I get stuck and can't get any further. Too bad.
The fifth boulder is a kind of a semi-dihedral. I start quite badly but I keep climbing and slowly get to the top. This one seems to be the trickiest boulder of the qualification with the smallest number of finishers but it worked for me.
In total I have 3 boulders and 4 zones and I end up 73rd. I needed 5 tops to pass on, and also less attempts. Well, today I wasn't even close. The other guys' results are similar to mine, Vojta Trojan climbs very good and ends 85th, Kuba Konečný is 91st, Štěpán 95th and Kuba Jedlička 105th.
Maybe we're loosing edge? Our competition is getting bigger, everyone is training for 110% and the majority of the participants doesn't have any other job apart from training and climbing, having enough money to go all over the world to different gyms... one can see that the Olympics is coming soon. Here in the Czech Republic this isn't possible yet, one must get some bread to live on and the training conditions, even though much better than before, just aren't at the same level. For example the training centre at Smíchov can't hold a candle to what people climb on in other countries of the world. Well, enough of crying. This Saturday we'll go to Moscow and we'll give it all we have!
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