Během víkendu proběhlo první kolo
ČP v Lysé nad Labem, lezlo se na kvalitní stěně, kvalitní byli i stavěči,
sjelo se celkem 100 závodníků, takže závod velmi povedený. Kvalifikační
bouldery byly postaveny v lehčím stylu a každá chyba se počítala, na
postup bylo potřeba mít 8boulderů na 11 pokusů. Mě se podařilo dát všechny
bouldery stylem OS a ještě s Martinem Žákem jsme si rozdělili první
postupové místo.
Finále 1
Finále 2
Finále 3
Ve finále lezu jako poslední závodník,
první tři bouldery jsou opět lehčí, vím že musím dát a to mě trošku svazuje.
Čtyřka je peklo pekelný, které nikdo nevyleze, mě se daří dolézt pod Top, ale
v rozhodující chvíli smekám. Celkem mám 3bouldery na 4 pokusy, což velmi
těsně stačí na 1. místo, stejný
zápis má i Honza Chvála a tak rozhoduje kvalifikace a Honza končí druhý, o
jeden pokus na zónu navíc má Štěpán a ten je tedy třetí. Na bedně je velmi
těsno. Holky vyhraje s přehledem Petra Růžičková před Editou Vopatovou.
Večer s Kačenkou přejíždíme
do Mladé Boleslavy a v neděli ráno už šlapeme na levém břebu Labáku s Tomem
Strnadem do kopce ke kameni El Pako di Koňo, kde krásným převisem vede Metelkův Mechanický Betlém 8B+,
prodloužení boulderu Dobrák od Kosti, který jsem vylezl nedávno. Vše krásně
suché a akorát chladno, ideálně na bouldering. Zahřeji se v jednotlivých
krocích a když už se cítím dobře, dávám pokus, hned tím prvním jsem nahoře!
Veliká radost, nevím moc jak s klasou, buď mi to extrémně sedí a nebo je
klasa jinde, ale Adam Ondra označil Metelku jako těžké 8B+, takže moc nevím. Za
mě spíše 8B/B+ a kdyby to bylo 8B,
tak bych to nepoznal. A tu video jak to lezl Aočko
Metelkův Mechanický Betlém 8B+
Poté se ještě zavěšuji do Pexesa 8A/A+, vymyslíme betu a po pár
pokusech je doma i tento boulder, klidně
8A+.
Pexeso 8A/A+
Chvíli ještě koukneme na Toma a
pak balíme věci a přejíždíme na druhou stranu řeky. Razíme k Žížale, cesta
netrvá klasických 10 min, ale přes půl hodiny… inu geografický smysl nabytý na
vysoké škole občas zklame. Na Žížale zkouším boulder Ebola za 8A+, nedaří se
mně vymyslet program, který by pustil přes první krok, pro dnešek lezení
stačilo, ještě se s Kačkou chvíli vychutnáváme krásné počasí na vrcholcích
skal a jedeme dom.
The first round of the Czech Cup in Lysá nad Labem took place at the weekend. The wall was of great quality and so were those who preapred it for climbing. There were a total of 100 participants, so it was a very good contest. Qualifications boulders were easier and each mistake counted. To get through, one had to make 8 boulders in 11 attempts. I managed to send all of them OS and together with Martin Žák we were on the first place after the qualifications.
In the final, I climb as the last competitor, the first three boulders are easier and I know I must make it, which restricts me a bit. No 4 is a hell of a hell where no one succeeds, I manage to get under the top but in the decisive moment I slide. In total I have 3 boulders in 4 attempts, which makes it the 1st place. Honza Chvála has the same record, so what decides is qualifications -- Honza is second and Štepán has one more attempt in his record, and so he is third.
In the evening, me and Kačka move on to Mladá Boleslav and on Sunday morning we walk on the left bank of Labák with Tom Strnad up the hill to boulder El Pako di Koňo, Metelkův Mechanický Betlém 8B+, prolongation of boulder Dobrák od Kosti, which I climbed recently, is going through a nice overhang. Everything is nicely dry and the chill is just right, ideal for bouldering. I warm up in the steps and when I feel good, I start with attempts -- I am on the top right on the first one! I am really happy, I don't really know how about the class, either it extremely suits me or the class is somewhere else. Adam Ondra designated Metelka as hard 8B+, so I don't really know. I would say 8B/B+ and if it was 8B I wouldn't recognize it. The video shows how Adam climbed it.
Afterwards I hang in Pexeso 8A/A+, we make up a beta and after a few attempts I make also this one, which could easily be 8A+.
We watch Tom for some time and then pack our stuff and move on to the other bank of the river. We are off to Žížala but it doesn't take us usual 10 minutes but more than half an hour ... well, geographic sense acquired at university sometimes let you down. I try Ebola 8A+, can't make up the program that would let me past the first step, so I see that's it for today. We enjoy the beautiful weather on the top of the rocks and then we are off home.
The first round of the Czech Cup in Lysá nad Labem took place at the weekend. The wall was of great quality and so were those who preapred it for climbing. There were a total of 100 participants, so it was a very good contest. Qualifications boulders were easier and each mistake counted. To get through, one had to make 8 boulders in 11 attempts. I managed to send all of them OS and together with Martin Žák we were on the first place after the qualifications.
In the final, I climb as the last competitor, the first three boulders are easier and I know I must make it, which restricts me a bit. No 4 is a hell of a hell where no one succeeds, I manage to get under the top but in the decisive moment I slide. In total I have 3 boulders in 4 attempts, which makes it the 1st place. Honza Chvála has the same record, so what decides is qualifications -- Honza is second and Štepán has one more attempt in his record, and so he is third.
In the evening, me and Kačka move on to Mladá Boleslav and on Sunday morning we walk on the left bank of Labák with Tom Strnad up the hill to boulder El Pako di Koňo, Metelkův Mechanický Betlém 8B+, prolongation of boulder Dobrák od Kosti, which I climbed recently, is going through a nice overhang. Everything is nicely dry and the chill is just right, ideal for bouldering. I warm up in the steps and when I feel good, I start with attempts -- I am on the top right on the first one! I am really happy, I don't really know how about the class, either it extremely suits me or the class is somewhere else. Adam Ondra designated Metelka as hard 8B+, so I don't really know. I would say 8B/B+ and if it was 8B I wouldn't recognize it. The video shows how Adam climbed it.
Afterwards I hang in Pexeso 8A/A+, we make up a beta and after a few attempts I make also this one, which could easily be 8A+.
We watch Tom for some time and then pack our stuff and move on to the other bank of the river. We are off to Žížala but it doesn't take us usual 10 minutes but more than half an hour ... well, geographic sense acquired at university sometimes let you down. I try Ebola 8A+, can't make up the program that would let me past the first step, so I see that's it for today. We enjoy the beautiful weather on the top of the rocks and then we are off home.
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