úterý 24. července 2012

Bor - Naposledy před Rocklands

V neděli ráno prší, ale nám to moc nevadí, vyrážíme až odpoledne. Při chůzi do kopce je všude dost mokro a vrtá nám hlavou, jestli nepojemede zase zpátky dom. Naštěstí boulder Chcanky 7B+/C suchej a můžu lízt. Hloupý zvednutí zadku a pak už lehký. Dlouho špekuluju, jak chytnout nástupový chyty až kousek pravýho uloupnu, a jak se správně postavit až se postavým mimo omágovaný stupy. Pak to vylezu, nechal bych 7B+. Jdeme dál k Ádr Fitnesu, kačka vyleze svůj pojekt od minule za 5A a já pak zkouším kombinátory Ádr Fitnesu Joko-Geri 7B+/C a Teplej Merlot 7B/B+. Chyty jsou docela navlhlý, ale utrápím to. Lomítka a to, co je napravo od nich bych škrtnul.

Teplej Merlot 7B

Je hezky chladno a tak namotivuju Kačku na její nej projekt Loveckou sezónu, ale nedaří se.
Lovecká Sezóna 5A

Pak mě zase Kačka motivuje na můj projekt na Magnetu. Tření je znát, jenom kdyby nebyla zavlhlá výlezová hrana. Nicméně zkouším, mám sebou nový tvrdý lehky a konečně ustojím klíčový stup, a každým pokusem se o kousek zlepším dokud to nevylezu, krásný sledovat progres:) Klasa snad 8A+. Bohužel, když přelízám, tak se Kačka zrovna věnuje jinýmu chlapovi (pejskovi) tak video není, ale pro ilustraci z taky dobrýho pokusu.


Právě zapadá sluníčko, když dorazíme k parkovišti, nějakej polák uvízl v parkovištní kaluži, vezmu auto a vytáhnu ho.
Západ slunce

Ráno vykopu všechny z postele a okolo devátý jsme zase ve skalách.


Lezema na Hollywoodu, káča projektuje v Mechanickým Pomeranči 6A+  a já mezitím udělám novinku Walk Of Fame za 7A+, potkáme Michala Štěpánka.

 Walk Of Fame 7A+

Mechanický Pomeranč 6A+

Dál jdeme až za Djembe, kde Štěpán posledně očistil bomba a snad nejpřevislejší boulder na Boru. Kroky docela jdou až na ten poslední, tak je to temnota a navíc kousavá lišta, tak vyklízím pole. JAk odcházíme trkne mě do oka možná klíčový chyt, tak příště. Očekávaná klasa 8A+.


Projekt 8A+?


Dál jdeme dolů k  HOspodě, kde zkusím letitý skokový projekt, ale nic z toho není.

Morfo projekt 7C+?

Pak buší už jen Kačka. Očistíme Pašeráka a kačka vyleze pár lehkých boulderů 3-4. PAk jdeme k Noci v Muzeu, kde si odškrtne další projekt za 5C. Nakonec se stavíme u Mortalu Kombat, kde KAčka zkouší Fatality 5C.


 Pytel Plný Drog 4

Tak a teď ROKLANDS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Bor: Last time before Rocklands

It was raining on Sunday morning but we didn't mind so much because we didn't take off before the afternoon. When we were walking up the hill, all was very wet so we were wondering whether to go on or to go back home. Fortunately, the boulder Chcanky 7B+/C was dry so I could climb it. A lame arse-lift, then it was all right. I was racking my brains how to grasp the initial holds and how to position myself off the powdered treads. Then I did it. I would say 7B+.


Then, we went to Ádr Fitnes. Kačka did her project left from the last time (5A) and I was trying combinations of Ádr Fitness - Joko-Geri (7B+/C) and Teplej Merlot (7B/B+). The holds were quite damp but I did it anyway. 

It was pretty cold so I motivated Kačka to do her finest project Lovecká sezóna but no success. Then the other way round -- Kačka motivated me during my project on Magnet. There was considerable friction. If only the final edge hadn't been wet. I was trying to do it nonetheless and finally I was able to handle the key move. With every attempt I got a little better. It was great to watch my progress :-) Class: About 8A+. Unfortunately, when I was finishing, Kačka paid attention to another guy (the dog) so there is no video to show you. But for the illustration, there is a different take from another good attempt.


It was sunset when we arrived at the parking place. Some Polish guy got stuck in the mud so I pulled him out with my car. In the morning, I forced everyone to get up. Around nine, we were already climbing again. We were doing Hollywood, Káča did her projects on Mechanický pomeranč (6A+), and inbetween, I did a new thing -- Walk of Fame (7A+). We also met Michal Štěpánek.

Later on, we went to Djembe where Štěpán cleaned an awesome and maybe the most overhanging boulder at Bor the last time. The moves were not bad, except for the last one. Moreover a biting edge. So a beat a retreat. I noticed what could be a key hold just when we were moving off -- so maybe next time. Expected class: 8A+.

Then we went on towards Hospoda where I tried an age-old jump project but it didn't work. After that, it was just Kačka's show. We cleaned up Pašerák, Kačka climbed up a few easier boulders (3 to 4). Then there was Noc v Muzeu where she could tick off another project (5C). In the end, we made a stop at Mortal Kombat where there was Fatality 5C for Kačka.

Well and now ROCKLANDS!

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