čtvrtek 9. února 2012

Bahratal, letošní první 8B!

Konečně trošku teplejc, tak kam vyrazit? Bahratal nebo Petráč? Jasně volím píseček. Jedu jen na den, nevím jestli by to moje fáro přežilo noc bez "zagarážování". To teda znamená vstávat brzy, nemůžu ani dospat, natěšenost ja obrovská!, takže před čtvrtou ranní razím. O půl osmé stojím pod Schlachthof-Blockem a rozlízám se v Medizinmenu za 7B, kterej po zahřátí padne. Posunu matice o dva metry doleva a zkouším rest z minula Hackrobatik 8A+, sice sekačka, ale pěkně. Pomalu si to zkroknu, první krok mi dělá větší problémy než minule, jak ho udělám stačí se trefit nohou na stup, Typhoony jsou betonový, takže první rest smazán. Hned pádím az vyhlídnutým 8B/B+ De Frost. Po cestě ještě nakouknu do Spielplatzu 8A+, ale nějak nechápu, jak udělat začátek aniž bych se dotkl skály za mnou, rada?:) Dám aspoň vedlejší Gicht 7C, kde je hustej krok přes spoďák a dokážu si představit, že nejeden "7céčkař" by plakal. U Frosta si nejdřív zkroknu druhou polovinu, která by mohla být samostatně za 7B+. Pak jdu na tu první, kde jsou dvě cca 7C za sebou.  "Nejtěžší krok" čeká na konci této poloviny, ten co na videu (www.gulag-online.de) je "přeskočenej". Mě se ho podaří udělat jednodušeji, dám pravou patu-špičku, a nakonec pro mě možná ani nejtěžší není. Takže teď už zbývá to jen spojit. Mezi pokusy dávám dlouhý puazy, 24 kroků je moc, vytrvalost už není co bejvala. S úbytkem chyb dolízám dál a dál, a nakonec celkově asi na 7mý ostrý to padne! Takže podle mě, schůdný 8B, možná tím že jsem si ten "nejtěžší" krok vymyslel jinak, nebo tím že to tak prostě je.


Dál jdu k Heel From Steel 8A. Tady strávím asi hodinu, roztrhnu si prst a ani to nezkrokuju. Začátek jde, pak buď přes patu, nebo přes špičku, pomocí který to lezu já. PAk malá krysa a buď hodně daleko, nebo přes odtlak, mě nejde ani jedno. Si říkám, že si spravím chuť na Fucku-traverzu 7C. Jenže bandasky z Frosta se vždycky před závěrečným madlem přihlásí o slovo a "dávací" 7C mi nedá. MAximálka ještě je, tak zaběhnu na druhou stranu řeky na Diamant 8A+, ten je bohužel mokrej. Tak běžím zase zpátky, Australci 8A jsou taky mokrý, po cestě zpátky se zastavím u nelezenýho Riese za 7C. Na skále žádný mágo, ale je to docela jasný. ZAčátek easy, pak přes malej spoďák schovanej v díře přískok do bočáku, fintový koleno a top.



Bahratal, this year's first 8B!
It finally grew a little warmer, so what to do? Bahratal or Petráč? I choose the sandstone. I'm going for just one day, I do not know if my car could survive the night out in the wild. That means getting up early. I am so excited I cannot even sleep so I set off before four in the morning. At about half past seven, I am standing in front of Schlachthof-Block. I warm up at Medizinman 7B and beat it. Two meters to the left, I am trying what has been left from the last time: Hackrobatik 8A+. A lot of chipping, but no problem. I step slowly; the first step is harder than last time but once it is done, I just need to get the right foothold. The typhoons are like concrete, so the first thing can be checked off. Without delay, I am going for 8B/B+ De Frost I have picked up before. Along the way, I stop at Spielplatz 8A+ but I have a hard time figuring out how to do the start without touching the rock behind me. Any advice? :-) Anyway, I do adjacent Gicht 7C (with a really hard undercling: I can imagine it could make some 7C-guys cringe). As for Frost, I start with the second half, which itself could be a 7B+. Then I proceed with the other one (two about 7Cs in a row).  "The hardest step" waits at the end of this part; it is that one which has been 'skipped' on the video [www.gulag-online.de]. I manage to do it in an easier way - right heel and tip. After all, it might not be the most difficult one for me. And now to merge these two parts. I make longer pauses between the attempts. 24 steps are too many and my endurance is not as good as it used to be. The number of mistakes decreases as I proceed, and then, at about 7th attempt, I beat it. So, as far I can estimate, a nice 8B (maybe as I did the hardest step in a different way).

I continue with Heel From Steel 8A where I spend about an hour. I injure my finger and can't manage to step it. The start is good, then either the heel or the tip (I choose the second way). After that, I can't figure any way how to proceed. I tell myself I could improve my record on Fuck-travers 7C. However, due to the exhaustion from Frost, I can't finish even this one easy-peasy 7C. I also try Diamant 8A+ on the other side of the river but it is too wet. So I run back: Australci 8A are wet, too. On the way back, I make a stop at Ries 7C. An easy start, then a small undercling hidden in a hole, a side leap, a "trick knee", and I am on the top.

28 komentářů:

Jar. řekl(a)...

Hezká práce! To jsi se tam docela naběhal! Byli jsme tam v sobotu a neskutečně jsme vymrzli, zrovna tam akorát padal ten sníh, do té doby to tam bylo super, furt na sluníčku. :-) Neříkej, že tam nebyla kosa? Já v Tisí mrznu! :D PS: příště dej vědět!

NOO NOO řekl(a)...

Cus, právě že to docela šlo, nebyl takovej mráz jako poslední dny, po chvilce poskakování na místě se dalo zahřát. Spíš byl problém padající sníh, kterej padal na matice a tak sem ho musel každou chvíli "odhánět". Jo možná ke konci února bych tam ještě zajel, uvidíme.. Jo a navíš jakpak lezl adam pod dírou v tom Heelu?

Jar. řekl(a)...

Jak to lezl mám někde v kompu na videu, snad to tam je vidět, až budu mít chvilku, tak to zjistim a dám vědět.

čermy řekl(a)...

Jako hoodně dobrá smršť!
Spielplatz-asi máš moc velký záda,Adam je přecijen hubenější:) Heel..je prostě hell,jsem nato koukal když to pokusovali Rosťa s Benešákem a MartinemT.,každej to řešil jinak,tehle bouldr moc nechápu.Myslim že Adam je vtom videu-Oko Bahratalu?

Anonymní řekl(a)...

ve spielplatzu z nástupu levou do takovýho bočáku přímo nad hlavou a pod rukou prokřížit. akorát zakloníš hlavu směrem do komína, ale tělo se v lidu vejde. rosťa

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