Míša zase přeleze pěkné 7B+ kousek pod Bridgem. Poté jdu na Conquistadora 8A+, zkroknu to, ale v kuse to nepouští. Po cestě k autu se ještě stavíme na Soilworku 8A+/8B. S nohama to moc nejde, tak s Vildou campusujem. Relativně rychle to pouští, viděl bych t ospíš na lehčí 8A+.
Soilwork 8A+
Den 2 - Rozlezeu se na Vitruvian Menu 7C. Vilda pošle taky, Míša je v tom taky dobře, ale je kratší a náskok do hrany neudělá. Já se pověsím vedle do La Soucupe 8A+, a jednou se mi podaří odlepit zadek od země, toť vše. Kousek opodál čeká rozlezený projekt od minula Willenberg Dach 8A a v něm si vylepšuju bilanci vylezeno/nevylezeno. Dál jdeme do centrálu, tady čeká další pěknej převis 3°Cane 8A. Zkouším Flash, ale špičky nedrží. Nakonec to lezu trošku hrubější variantou a asi po hoďce posílám. nakonec si jdu ještě zkusit kroky do Delusion Of Grandeur 8B, ale je to spíš stínový divadlo než krokování
Den 3 - Rest day. Jenom Vilda buší, přeleze Pocket Problem 7C, Ping Pong 7C a Made in Norway 7B.
Vilda v Ping Pongu 7C
Tricky 8A
Fox v Aretě 8A
Já v Aretě 8A
Den 5 - Psyche je zpátky na Conquistadora 8A+. Rozlezu se v Powerstrips 7B+ Flash a něčem lehčím. U dobyvatele mi Jirous poradí pár zlehčovadel a pošlu na pár pokusů. Krásnej bouldr.
Conquistador 8A+
Pak jdu zkusit za Vildou nějaký 7C+ka, ale shořím jak papír. Taktéž na Aquariu 7B+, kterýho nakonec dnes pošle jen Vilda. Ten pošle ještě za soumraku 7C u PAssa Ticina.
Den 6 - Ztrestám Willyho Watchera 8A, Vilda 7B+ u Tricky a Míša Aquariuma jedem dom.
Wally Watcher 8A
Celej týden modro, dobrá parta lidí, dobrý přelezy, parádní výjezd!
Chironico 2011
After a year again, I got back into one of the best bouldering areas in Europe. I met a great bunch there: Vilda, Michal Štěpánek, Fox Příba, Olin and Martin Drbohlav, Nevělajz, Vojta, and Ličko. Especially Foxík and Přílba were unstoppable. Their mutual innuendo was sweetening the long evenings to the rest of us. I and Michal Štěpánek set off from Choceň on Monday evening. In Prague, we are joined by Vilda Chejn. Around half past four in the morning, we catch up on sleep near the Magic Wood. In the morning we arrive at Chira. The first area we chose is Schattental. We warm up on 7A, 7B. Then, I am going for the first goal, Bridge Over Troubled Waters 7C+ / 8A. Vilda advises me on the program and the boulder does not resist very long. Later, Vilda sends, too.
Míša, for one, climbs a nice 7B+, not far from the Bridge. After that, I go to the Conquistador 8A+ to tame it, but it is not a one-piece job. On the way back to the car, we also stop at Soilwork 8A+ / 8B. It's quite difficult with the feet so I and Vilda have to campus. We proceed fairly quickly; I would say it was rather a lighter 8A+.
Day 2: I warm up on Vitruvian Menu 7C. Vilda sends too. Míša is also good, but he is shorter so he cannot jump to the arete. I hang nearby, on La Soucupe 8A+. I manage to get my arse off the ground once, but that's all. A short way off there is Willenberg Dach 8A, a dreadful, unfinished project from the last time, and I am trying to improve my bilance on it. Then we proceed to the central area with another nice overhang, 3° Cane 8A. I try to flash, but the tips do not hold. In the end, I choose a little rougher way and send after an hour or so. Eventually, I try the steps on Delusion Of Grandeur 8B, but it's rather a shadow theater than proper stepping.
Day 3: Rest Day. Only Vilda pounds, he climbs Pocket Problem 7C, Ping Pong 7C, and Made in Norway 7B.
Day 4: The main goal is Delusion Of Grandeur 8B. On the way, I and the guys stop by a marvellous Tricky 8A. After a while I send, Příba follows after some time.
I'm going to try my steps on Delusion, and the part from the standing position is OK. The climb is not so good - I can't lift my foot towards my hand, so I enjoy a few flights. Initial steps are going well, but again, one particular step with switching feet is difficult. (Besides I just found out that Moroni began only from this place which made me trouble - if I knew that before... But then again, what's a true start?) After an hour, I give up and join the guys on arete on With Pocket 8A - another great line. I work on Foxík's program a bit and then I send. Fox is almost there as well.
Day 5: Psyche is back on Conquistador 8A+. I warm up on Powerstrips 7B+ Flash and on something easier. Jirous gives me some advice and I send a few pieces. A beautiful boulder!
Then I proceed with some 7C+'s with Vilda but it's a burnout. The same is the case on Aquaria 7B+ which is defeated only by Vilda that day. Vilda even sends 7C Passo Ticino at dusk.
Day 6: I get over Willy Watcher 8A. Vilda does Tricky 7B+, and Míša does Aquarium. Then, we go home.
The sky was blue the whole week, the bunch was good, the boulders too - it was an awesome trip!
Chironico 2011
After a year again, I got back into one of the best bouldering areas in Europe. I met a great bunch there: Vilda, Michal Štěpánek, Fox Příba, Olin and Martin Drbohlav, Nevělajz, Vojta, and Ličko. Especially Foxík and Přílba were unstoppable. Their mutual innuendo was sweetening the long evenings to the rest of us. I and Michal Štěpánek set off from Choceň on Monday evening. In Prague, we are joined by Vilda Chejn. Around half past four in the morning, we catch up on sleep near the Magic Wood. In the morning we arrive at Chira. The first area we chose is Schattental. We warm up on 7A, 7B. Then, I am going for the first goal, Bridge Over Troubled Waters 7C+ / 8A. Vilda advises me on the program and the boulder does not resist very long. Later, Vilda sends, too.
Míša, for one, climbs a nice 7B+, not far from the Bridge. After that, I go to the Conquistador 8A+ to tame it, but it is not a one-piece job. On the way back to the car, we also stop at Soilwork 8A+ / 8B. It's quite difficult with the feet so I and Vilda have to campus. We proceed fairly quickly; I would say it was rather a lighter 8A+.
Day 2: I warm up on Vitruvian Menu 7C. Vilda sends too. Míša is also good, but he is shorter so he cannot jump to the arete. I hang nearby, on La Soucupe 8A+. I manage to get my arse off the ground once, but that's all. A short way off there is Willenberg Dach 8A, a dreadful, unfinished project from the last time, and I am trying to improve my bilance on it. Then we proceed to the central area with another nice overhang, 3° Cane 8A. I try to flash, but the tips do not hold. In the end, I choose a little rougher way and send after an hour or so. Eventually, I try the steps on Delusion Of Grandeur 8B, but it's rather a shadow theater than proper stepping.
Day 3: Rest Day. Only Vilda pounds, he climbs Pocket Problem 7C, Ping Pong 7C, and Made in Norway 7B.
Day 4: The main goal is Delusion Of Grandeur 8B. On the way, I and the guys stop by a marvellous Tricky 8A. After a while I send, Příba follows after some time.
I'm going to try my steps on Delusion, and the part from the standing position is OK. The climb is not so good - I can't lift my foot towards my hand, so I enjoy a few flights. Initial steps are going well, but again, one particular step with switching feet is difficult. (Besides I just found out that Moroni began only from this place which made me trouble - if I knew that before... But then again, what's a true start?) After an hour, I give up and join the guys on arete on With Pocket 8A - another great line. I work on Foxík's program a bit and then I send. Fox is almost there as well.
Day 5: Psyche is back on Conquistador 8A+. I warm up on Powerstrips 7B+ Flash and on something easier. Jirous gives me some advice and I send a few pieces. A beautiful boulder!
Then I proceed with some 7C+'s with Vilda but it's a burnout. The same is the case on Aquaria 7B+ which is defeated only by Vilda that day. Vilda even sends 7C Passo Ticino at dusk.
Day 6: I get over Willy Watcher 8A. Vilda does Tricky 7B+, and Míša does Aquarium. Then, we go home.
The sky was blue the whole week, the bunch was good, the boulders too - it was an awesome trip!
1 komentář:
Super, hlavně mi všechny ty boldry připadají krásné... fajne. Zítra schůze!
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